BRZ/FR-S Coilover Installation Guide

[kch]

Originally Posted by zc06_kisstherain

i am quite mechanic savy and did most work done on many cars and trying to install coilover today and these damm endlinks' hex was rust like shiiit and it got round off and cannot hex anymore. i used pb blaster torched and did not work before it got rounded.
i managed to remove driver side's endlink from sway bar not on strut!! lol
I am gonna buy adjustable endlinks but i am stuck on passenger side' endlink.
any idea to remove damm rusted endlink?

weld a wrench to it? :-\

[zc06_kisstherain]

Originally Posted by kch

weld a wrench to it? :-\

I cut it off

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[zc06_kisstherain]

installed Perrin endlink~ yoohoo!!! go to hell stock endlink!!

[chipmunk]

Hi, That exploded view of suspension components with torque specs.... where did you get that image from? My service manual copy doesn't have that. but I want that info.


Thanks!

[MJones_RB]

Found this on a different site. Haven't seen this mentioned on any thread about coilover installs, but maybe this is more for alignment techs:

"Relieving Bushing Preload
I’m sure you thought you were done with the install right? There is one more thing you must do to achieve the complete 1” drop from your new springs. From factory the suspension arms are torqued down at specific angles in order for the control arm bushings to operate with the least amount of stress and bind. When you lower the vehicle, the inner bushings on the lower control arm should be reset so there is no preload in the bushings. Preload can alter ride height and cause your car to be higher than intended.

1. There are basically two bolts to worry about. Let’s talk about the front end first. The lower control arm has 2 inner mounting bushings. The front bushing is a horizontal style bushing and does not require any preload resetting. The rear bushings are a normal hinge type bushing and this is the bushing that will require resetting. Loosen this bolt on both arms. Do not remove, just loosen a few turns to relieve the preload. At this time, do not tighten these bolts. (17mm socket & wrench)

2. For the rear, there are two control arms to be concerned about. The lower lateral control arm and the diagonal link. The inner pivot bolt on the lower lateral control arm should be loose if you followed step 20R. If not, loosen this bolt, but do not remove. The outer bolt on the lower lateral control arm is attached to a ball joint type joint, so it does not build up preload. Do not worry about the upper control arm. The diagonal link will need to have both ends loosened. Again, do not remove these bolts. Only loosen. (17mm socket & wrench) The next step will require an alignment rack (preferable) or floor ramps. With all of the bolts discussed loosened, lower the car back on the ground and roll the car about 10 feet back and forth. Drive up onto the alignment rack or floor ramps and tighten up all of the bolts. The point of this exercise is to tighten up the bolts with the suspension arms at the new lower ride height angles."

[H_K]

The stock endlinks are brutal.

2013 fr-s and still using the stock ones. They were rusted to shit! I was thinking the work on my suspension would take about 4 hours but it took me almost 3 hours alone to get off the drivers side endlink. My forearms are sore as hell.

My strategy was to use a wire brush on the threads, followed by wd40, followed by doing a tightening/loosening dance while slowly loosening more and more each time. The rust was preventing me from loosening more than like an eighth of a turn at once. I found I could loosen as much as possible, then tighten a bit, then go back and forth a few times until it became easier. This would allow me to loosen just a liiiiiitle bit more. Rinse and repeat about a thousand times...

[maicolp]

flex cut them bastards

[chipmunk]

Couple of things....
1. A little bit of spray paint on union bolts, brake calipers (pads & rotors mask-taped), etc., goes a long way.
2. Impact wrench.

Sent from a potato

[SuperTom]

Originally Posted by MJones_RB

Found this on a different site. Haven't seen this mentioned on any thread about coilover installs, but maybe this is more for alignment techs:

2. For the rear, there are two control arms to be concerned about. The lower lateral control arm and the diagonal link. The inner pivot bolt on the lower lateral control arm should be loose if you followed step 20R. If not, loosen this bolt, but do not remove. The outer bolt on the lower lateral control arm is attached to a ball joint type joint, so it does not build up preload. Do not worry about the upper control arm. The diagonal link will need to have both ends loosened. Again, do not remove these bolts. Only loosen. (17mm socket & wrench) The next step will require an alignment rack (preferable) or floor ramps. With all of the bolts discussed loosened, lower the car back on the ground and roll the car about 10 feet back and forth. Drive up onto the alignment rack or floor ramps and tighten up all of the bolts. The point of this exercise is to tighten up the bolts with the suspension arms at the new lower ride height angles."

When I installed my coilovers years ago I never did this part. Had no problem getting it aligned or anything. Just my Coilovers are max dropped in the rear and I still have an 1" of wheel gap. But not sure bolt needs to be loosened by your description. Anyone have a pic?


I did adjust preload on my Coilovers as recommended and preload on my sway bar.