Alignment question

[Eff]

Hello so I ordered MCA blue coil overs and white line LCAs
Looking to set up the car for daily driving but also want it to have abit of an aggressive stance

What would be the ideal set up to achieve this? I’ve heard some people say 1.5 degrees should be the max while having others tell me I should go 2.0 all round, what are your recommendations?

I’m also thinking about dropping the car 1/1.5” to get rid of the gap between the tires and fenders (pic related) you can also see how far the car raised up in the first photo on the left side

https://imgur.com/a/1UpLBON

Thank you in advance

[Mr.ac]

1.5 is good enough for what you want. 2.0 is for race tracks. Unless you just want to look the part, which I assume that's all you want all show and no go. Then do 2.0 it would look the part but you'll also put more inner ware on your tires. So that's something to think about.

[churchx]

From OP description poster don't want anything performance related. Drop & camber for looks. But even from looks only perspective that in turn may change, depending on wheel/tire choice, if and how much camber is needed to get what he wants.
But even if it's for looks, he should be more clear/descriptive of what exactly he wants. Flush fitment? Or if his "agressive stance" means hella-camber? Or slammed to ground? Something else?

[Captain Snooze]

Originally Posted by Mr.ac

Then do 2.0 it would look the part but you'll also put more inner ware on your tires.

I have -3.2 deg at the front, -2.7 at the rear and don't notice undue inside wear.
Yeah, set up for track but I haven't visited a track in ages.*shrugs*

[ZionsWrath]

If you want to "look the part" you should get -3, -2 on stock suspension still gets outside edge wear on the track.

If you do mostly straight/highway driving any negative camber is going to wear the inside edge of your tires. But the trade off is worth it IMO

Just noticed you are running 9.5 wheels. Just do it by eye to complete the stance you are looking for then get an alignment to fix toe and match the left and right camber.

When it comes to looks and daily driving you want to set the camber to "looks good to me, doesn't rub when I drift up the KFC drive through ramp".
Set the ride height to "looks good to me, I don't pick up leaves with my front bumper, and my sub frame bolt heads don't grind on speed bumps".

[cjd]

I run -3.4/-2.4 and don't notice wear issues. I don't daily the car, but the majority of miles are highway.

If you never carve corners, it matters less - otherwise I usually say -2 to -2.5 front, -1.8 to -2 rear.

[churchx]

Wear issues aside (after all, camber don't eat as much tires as eg. excessive toe), grip of "track-ish" camber might be limited in winter / when rain, on loose grip surfaces like ice/snow/standing water/gravel, hence if camber isn't dictated for clearance issues of too wide wheels & tires or by some looks/stance reasons, it's better run more modest camber settings on daily driving for maximum grip.

[smg1138]

Don't be afraid of running a good amount of negative camber. I always run -2.5 front and -2.0 rear and don't get any noticeable inside tire wear. It's mostly bad toe that eats tires.

[strat61caster]

I started noticing inside wear issues at -4

It's the only reason my MPSS are going to just barely miss the 20k mile mark.

[tyler_win_photo]

It really depends on your wheel size and offset. If you want camber for looks, you can't easily visually notice the camber until you get around -3 or more.

[Eff]

Thanks for the input everyone i really appreciate it because im not very familiar in the topic, i wish there was more photos online of the differnt degrees in camber for 86's so i could have a look, i think im going to try and start at -3

whats the point of making the front more cambered then the rear i see alot of people doing it?

[FirstWinter]

Originally Posted by Eff

whats the point of making the front more cambered then the rear i see alot of people doing it?

This platform uses a MacPherson strut for front suspension which loses camber under load. You'll see most guys who do AutoX, HPDE, etc run more camber up front to help with this. As for the rear the multi-link suspension gains camber under load from what I understand as well so it isn't as much of an issue. Thus why you see the common formula of more front camber than rear.

[Eff]

Originally Posted by FirstWinter

This platform uses a MacPherson strut for front suspension which loses camber under load. You'll see most guys who do AutoX, HPDE, etc run more camber up front to help with this. As for the rear the multi-link suspension gains camber under load from what I understand as well so it isn't as much of an issue. Thus why you see the common formula of more front camber than rear.

ahhh i see thank you, so i should probably run something like -3.5 front -3 rear?

[smg1138]

Originally Posted by Eff

ahhh i see thank you, so i should probably run something like -3.5 front -3 rear?

That's probably too much in the rear. The track setups I've seen are usually around -3.5 front -2.5 rear. I would only run that much on a dedicated track car though.