Transmission just doesn't feel right (since day 1 bought with 83 miles)

[kodyo]

If you are going to take it to the dealership, remove the aftermarket parts. Why even give them a reason?
You might as well just bring it up at the next service interval and get a multi thousand dollar part fixed for free.

[DarkStar]

Interesting that JP mentioned the clutch adjustment. My FRS has all the typical problems - is the same after 50k/km and 3 different oil fills as it was when new. I've complained about it to the dealer loads of times, but they haven't fixed it yet. I've been suspicious of the clutch for a while and mentioned it to the dealer but they seem to think it's ok. I have an extra little problem that JP won't have seen in Oz - at about -15c (common here in Canada) the clutch gets really heavy and I can't even get the thing out of first gear let alone into 2nd. Anyone else had that problem? Anyhow, I have 2 reports open with Toyota and the dealer tells me Toyota/Aisin are "working on a fix". I'll check out the clutch adjustment and post back to the forum if it works in my case or if something comes of the Toyota "fix". Cheers.

[GhostShield]

Originally Posted by JP

adjust the clutch master pushrod by 1/2 to 1 turn to lengthen it. That should solve your shift problems. Add a texta mark to the pushrod lengthways so you can visually see how far you have adjusted it.


It's a complete bitch to get at the pushrod to adjust it, but that tiny adjustment gives the additional hydraulic throw required at the slave cylinder so the pressure plate can full disengage from the clutch plate and allow the synchro's to do their job.

Total differant from adjusting clutch engagement right? Clutch engagement as in how far from the floor the pedal starts to work.

I follow what your saying but not 100%, clutch I've suspected as well. Possibly not fully disengaging the trans therefore gears are still spinning a bit to much and jar of marbles results.

Can you elaborate a little more?

[GhostShield]

Originally Posted by kodyo

If you are going to take it to the dealership, remove the aftermarket parts. Why even give them a reason?
You might as well just bring it up at the next service interval and get a multi thousand dollar part fixed for free.

I do all my own service. I don't need the quacks at the dealers working on my car. Only to replace parts that weren't designed well in the first place.

[GhostShield]

Originally Posted by evan

The sooner the 86 community accepts that the Aisin is a junk box built for an economy sports car, the sooner you can save up for your TKO or V160 $10k conversion. Or trade the car in..

A 2jz swap would be sick. Probably would rather go LS motor tho

[evan]

Originally Posted by GhostShield

A 2jz swap would be sick. Probably would rather go LS motor tho

I loved my old LS1 and T56 combo. I spanked that mofo EVERY DAY and it never quit on me. When I shifted, I did it with authority. Wish I could say the same about Aisin. Love the car, love the layout, love the motor, love the handling dynamics, hate the gearbox. I have spent a shit load of money on the car. At this point, I would rather do the conversion to a TKO than cut my losses. Thanks to people like Accelerated Performance and FBM for providing options regardless of sticker shock.

[kodyo]

Originally Posted by GhostShield

I do all my own service. I don't need the quacks at the dealers working on my car. Only to replace parts that weren't designed well in the first place.

I'm willing to risk it personally until the car is out of warranty, then I'll take that approach. Free oil changes are hard to pass up.

[XanRules]

Originally Posted by GhostShield

Just to clear the air for you, cuz I can tell you take shit very literally.

No need to make this personal, Hoss, you're just making contradictory statements and that makes your posts even harder to follow.

Originally Posted by GhostShield

City/highway driving: I drive nice nice, speed limit, short shifts, easy on my girl.

Driving/canyon running/ drifting: I smash pretty good but I don't smash on it and do anything to hard on the car or that I feel it can't do.

Okay, so whatever the hell this means, they're still not entirely compatible statements. You either drive it hard or you don't. It sounds like you do. Which is fine. But maybe beating on a car that you suspect has a faulty gearbox isn't the best idea.

Originally Posted by GhostShield

And then I read about these guys that are like, babied my frs for 10k miles and I just laugh about that too haha

Laughs at people who baby their cars

Has a busted gearbox in 4000 miles

Originally Posted by Norton 850

I don't know who you're referring to when you say: "You're both saying you don't drive it hard blah, blah blah,..." But know this: regardless of driving habits, there is a problem with the AISIN gearbox in these cars. Obviously your gearbox is providing acceptable performance, which is great; I envy you. But my gearbox and thousands of others are simply unacceptable, and Subaru needs to make it right.

"You're both saying" can mean "you and another person are saying this" OR "you are saying both of these things." In this case I meant the latter.

I also don't doubt that there are issues with these gearboxes - that's pretty widely reported, a lot of people are having a lot of the same problems.
All I'm saying is that OP's driving habits may also be a contributing factor, which is why I was trying to see a little more about how he drives.

Originally Posted by JP

adjust the clutch master pushrod by 1/2 to 1 turn to lengthen it. That should solve your shift problems. Add a texta mark to the pushrod lengthways so you can visually see how far you have adjusted it.


It's a complete bitch to get at the pushrod to adjust it, but that tiny adjustment gives the additional hydraulic throw required at the slave cylinder so the pressure plate can full disengage from the clutch plate and allow the synchro's to do their job.

Could you elaborate a little more on how one does this? I have zero issues shifting mine, I just want to know because I want to know.

Originally Posted by GhostShield

I'm just gunna have these problems documented by the dealer and hope that if it shits out the bottom of my car that the dealer will own up and cover it.

Originally Posted by GhostShield

I do all my own service. I don't need the quacks at the dealers working on my car.

[GhostShield]

Xanrules idk what to tell you man hahaha
I'm trying to be as clear as I can to describe the way I drive. Something that's unique to every individual person.
All I can say is I don't feel I'm driving the car out side it's means.

As far as maintenance. I don't need luck haha I've maintained all my cars.

After taking to my service manager buddy at DCH Toyota of Oxnard CA and reading my ass off today. The trans is obviously just crunchy and it is what it is type deal.
Chris called the California field tech for Toyota that's supposedly on the up and up and he told Chris that it's a known thing with these trans for 1-3 to be rough.

My plan of attack is to just document it at Dch Toyota so IF it does crap out they'll cover it.

[GhostShield]

And Xanrules. Do you even drift bro? Or drive haha
Cuz that's why I bought this car. Not just to hard park.

[GhostShield]

Sorry for the typos here and there this is off my iphone

[JP]

the box is really smooth actually with a properly adjusted clutch. The gears click positively into each gate
-Get under the dash
-place a texta mark lengthways on the clutch master pushrod shaft for visual reference.
-loosen the locknut at the end of the pushrod near the back of the pedal arm with an open ended spanner
-turn the shaft 1/2 to 1 turn outwards from the pedal to effectively lengthen the shaft
-tighten the locknut
-Go for a drive and be amazed at how much better the shift is

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by JP

the box is really smooth actually with a properly adjusted clutch. The gears click positively into each gate
-Get under the dash
-place a texta mark lengthways on the clutch master pushrod shaft for visual reference.
-loosen the locknut at the end of the pushrod near the back of the pedal arm with an open ended spanner
-turn the shaft 1/2 to 1 turn outwards from the pedal to effectively lengthen the shaft
-tighten the locknut
-Go for a drive and be amazed at how much better the shift is

Well now, if I had trouble shifting my FR-S, I'd give that adjustment a try ...


humfrz

[DarkStar]

Originally Posted by JP

the box is really smooth actually with a properly adjusted clutch. The gears click positively into each gate
-Get under the dash
-place a texta mark lengthways on the clutch master pushrod shaft for visual reference.
-loosen the locknut at the end of the pushrod near the back of the pedal arm with an open ended spanner
-turn the shaft 1/2 to 1 turn outwards from the pedal to effectively lengthen the shaft
-tighten the locknut
-Go for a drive and be amazed at how much better the shift is

Thanks JP, definitely worth a try.