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Old 02-19-2013, 04:43 PM   #29
Retro86
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Originally Posted by Sco2355 View Post
It's not that it isn't recommended, people just don't want the dead spot where the "auto" lights are. I plan on hooking up the auto lights later when I do the other conversions (GT86 headlights, seat heaters, dual climate, etc). Just personal preference. The big thing we are finding out is Toyota and Subaru kept a lot of stuff there between the trim levels, just removed the extra bits and some of the wiring to them.
im also considering to convert to the gt86 trim and i will start off with the foglights. and i would want that auto spot, but what whats hooked up in the "auto" spot anyway?? the leds for the headlights??
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Old 02-19-2013, 05:00 PM   #30
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To the OP:
I may have misunderstood, but it seems like you're powering your fogs through the stalk, and not using a relay. This is a bad idea, as the fogs when turned on pull about 10 amps. The switch in the stalk likely isn't made for this much current, so you should install a relay ASAP.

For reference: 2 x 60watt bulbs = 120 Watts

P = I x V
120 = I x 12 (Car is a 12v system)
I = 10 Amps
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Old 02-19-2013, 06:30 PM   #31
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i wired my fogs to a seperate switch. i'll wait somebody do the prius or tundra stalk before doing in mine. lol
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Old 02-19-2013, 06:42 PM   #32
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Subarupartsforyou.com now has the stalk listed:

http://subarupartsforyou.com/cp_part...p?partid=23294
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Old 02-19-2013, 08:12 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by d1ck View Post
To the OP:
I may have misunderstood, but it seems like you're powering your fogs through the stalk, and not using a relay. This is a bad idea, as the fogs when turned on pull about 10 amps. The switch in the stalk likely isn't made for this much current, so you should install a relay ASAP.

For reference: 2 x 60watt bulbs = 120 Watts

P = I x V
120 = I x 12 (Car is a 12v system)
I = 10 Amps
Power is actually coming from a separate cable ran from the battery with an inline fuse. The switch on the stalk is only acting as an on and off and it's wired to the grounds.
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Old 02-19-2013, 08:18 PM   #34
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Well, if that's the only place you have the lights grounded, the power will flow from the battery, through the lights, and through the ground. That completes the circuit. You really shouldn't put that many amps through that small of wire. It should be the same size as the power wire.
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Old 02-19-2013, 08:38 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by zooki View Post
Well, if that's the only place you have the lights grounded, the power will flow from the battery, through the lights, and through the ground. That completes the circuit. You really shouldn't put that many amps through that small of wire. It should be the same size as the power wire.
I meant to mention this earlier.

OP, he's correct. You could easily smoke your new stalk.... at minimum.
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Old 02-19-2013, 08:50 PM   #36
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Another tidbit from the wiring diagrams. If the wire from pin 30 of Body ECU happens to be found under the hood somewhere.... you won't need to run any wires through the firewall to turn on the fogs.

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Old 02-19-2013, 09:10 PM   #37
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And appears the fogs should only come on if the parking/tail lights are on.

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Old 02-19-2013, 10:21 PM   #38
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Op, why didn't you buy a pre-made hardness? It would have made things way easier on you/safer.
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Old 02-19-2013, 10:39 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by FRSFirestorm View Post
Another tidbit from the wiring diagrams. If the wire from pin 30 of Body ECU happens to be found under the hood somewhere.... you won't need to run any wires through the firewall to turn on the fogs.

If I understand what you're asking, there wasn't a place and the fuse box had no terminals going to it either. At the time I didn't have the means of doing it.

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And appears the fogs should only come on if the parking/tail lights are on.

This is true too, but I wanted to be able to turn them on even with no lights on.

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Op, why didn't you buy a pre-made hardness? It would have made things way easier on you/safer.
If you are referring to a harness like Nigel's, I just didn't want to have a button that I'd have to either place somewhere or hide. I wanted a more OEM look and I planned on making the auto lights work later on, hence why I wanted the stalk.

I have been using the comments y'all have been giving me and doing more research into the wiring myself. The wiring is going to change soon to be safer/more reliable. Sorry my first attempt was somewhat of a ghetto one.
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Old 02-19-2013, 10:59 PM   #40
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You don't "need" a switch, you can still have the oem look. Instead of using the switch from the harness you would just use the stalk, because that's basically what it is a "switch"
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:01 PM   #41
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I wasn't trying to criticize you. Just didn't want to see you melt anything. Thanks for identifying what wire we need to tap into if we want to run the stalk. Appreciate it!
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:11 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by Juanito08 View Post
You don't "need" a switch, you can still have the oem look. Instead of using the switch from the harness you would just use the stalk, because that's basically what it is a "switch"
Yeah I guess I didn't really look at it that way.

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I wasn't trying to criticize you. Just didn't want to see you melt anything. Thanks for identifying what wire we need to tap into if we want to run the stalk. Appreciate it!
By no means did I take it in a negative way. Wiring in a vehicle is still new to me. It's a learning experience and I'm glad that people here like what I have found and are helping refine it. This is why I love this community! All the car forums I've been on will tell you it can't be done, then when you prove them wrong they tell you it's dumb and a waste of money. No help at all, but this place is the exact opposite!
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