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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous


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Old 06-02-2014, 02:53 PM   #4663
Dustin
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Originally Posted by Ethan View Post
I got another P0302 code. This is the second time. I replaced the coil pack and plug about a month ago. The check engine light went off at about 6000 rpm. Anyone else have this problem? The particulars are: 93 octane gas, manual transmission, Innovate SC with 70 mm pulley, FA20 club version of the intercooler, running Bill's 8.53 tune (will be upgrading to 8.58 soon).

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I can make my car misfire on cylinder 2 if I get around 5k rpms and roll on to the throttle slowly. Same specs as you listed. Makes a really nasty almost tearing sound when it happens. Probably my coil pack being a piece of shit.
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I can as well using a similar technique but I don't get any sound, just a flashing cel of P0303. I can also get it to flash it by not allowing full warm up and pushing it early.

I logged all 4 cylinder misfire counts and it happens actually in both 2&3 cylinders, even though it only throws P303 which is for #3.

Checked plugs, they looked good but replaced them anyway and swapped coils, neither had any noticeable effect if I induce as per above.

Now if I don't intentionally induce it and allow time to warm up before getting into it, I've had no issue.

Anyone thought of going with an aftermarket COP setup such as Okada or Cusco? They are pricey but if it solves the problem.
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Old 06-03-2014, 02:49 PM   #4664
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Anyone thought of going with an aftermarket COP setup such as Okada or Cusco? They are pricey but if it solves the problem.
Well you can now include me in on the list of guys on 8.58 seeing the 302 error code. Has anyone reached out to Bill or Zach on the issue? I'm currently going back to Moto-east's tune to see if I can replicate the problem there - will probably take a few days because it's not exactly cold, and from what all are saying and what I've also experienced it seems to happen when the car is not thoroughly warm.
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Old 06-03-2014, 04:46 PM   #4665
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I'm in 90+ degree weather here and it still happens. It's just it happens worse when the engine isn't at operating temperature.
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Old 06-03-2014, 10:48 PM   #4666
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Hey Guys,

Mikalem has brought to my attention some trouble he's having, and I see that a few of you are having the same issues as well with this P0302 and P0303 code. While we have only now become aware of this issue on the 8.58 revision, I have a couple notes. The first being that when boosting a motor that was NA from the factory, it should be common practice to let her warm up before pushing her at all. This applies even to factory cars. You don't have to let the car sit and idle, but for the sake of your car, boosted or not, tuned or not, it's always a good idea to drive easy and keep it under 4k until the oil reaches operating temperature. This is usually 10 minutes or so. Bringing the car to 5k and holding it there creates a lot of load, and below operating temperature this is really not a good idea.

That said, Bill has encountered this scenario one time. His car is a 2013 on Flexfuel as well, during switch from E85 back down to 91. He was in a hurry, and brought the car up to 5k before fully warming up. Same issue. Again, in all the time of ownership, this only happened once, and Bill drives his car extremely hard. While we will be looking into what exactly causes this phenomenon, I would urge all of you to use good sense and warm the car up fully before beating on it. If anyone has any specific concerns, feel free to pm or email me, and we will do our best to address your needs.

Lastly, please throw a mention at us in the thread if you run into any issues with the tune, we can't fix it if we don't know it's happening!

Sincerely,

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Old 06-03-2014, 11:02 PM   #4667
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Originally Posted by sales@delicioustuning.com View Post
Hey Guys,

Mikalem has brought to my attention some trouble he's having, and I see that a few of you are having the same issues as well with this P0302 and P0303 code. While we have only now become aware of this issue on the 8.58 revision, I have a couple notes. The first being that when boosting a motor that was NA from the factory, it should be common practice to let her warm up before pushing her at all. This applies even to factory cars. You don't have to let the car sit and idle, but for the sake of your car, boosted or not, tuned or not, it's always a good idea to drive easy and keep it under 4k until the oil reaches operating temperature. This is usually 10 minutes or so. Bringing the car to 5k and holding it there creates a lot of load, and below operating temperature this is really not a good idea.

That said, Bill has encountered this scenario one time. His car is a 2013 on Flexfuel as well, during switch from E85 back down to 91. He was in a hurry, and brought the car up to 5k before fully warming up. Same issue. Again, in all the time of ownership, this only happened once, and Bill drives his car extremely hard. While we will be looking into what exactly causes this phenomenon, I would urge all of you to use good sense and warm the car up fully before beating on it. If anyone has any specific concerns, feel free to pm or email me, and we will do our best to address your needs.

Lastly, please throw a mention at us in the thread if you run into any issues with the tune, we can't fix it if we don't know it's happening!

Sincerely,

Zach
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I baby the shit out of mine until it's warmed up....then it's balls to the wall and she runs great. On another note, can you guys change the launch control to hold the revs steady and smooth instead of the way it is now? Tried it out the other day and I really don't like how hard the car shakes....NA it was fine and not as harsh but with the blower it feels like the motor wants to come out of the front end lol. If not it's cool
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Old 06-03-2014, 11:12 PM   #4668
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I baby the shit out of mine until it's warmed up....then it's balls to the wall and she runs great. On another note, can you guys change the launch control to hold the revs steady and smooth instead of the way it is now? Tried it out the other day and I really don't like how hard the car shakes....NA it was fine and not as harsh but with the blower it feels like the motor wants to come out of the front end lol. If not it's cool
Definitely something we can look into
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Old 06-03-2014, 11:49 PM   #4669
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On another note, can you guys change the launch control to hold the revs steady and smooth instead of the way it is now?
@sales@delicioustuning.com

THIS!

The launch control would be awesome if it stepped up in 500 or 1000 rpm increments to redline once you actually launch, instead of just free-wheeling. I've noticed that even with launch control, first gear is about useless without drag slicks or a custom tune to reduce the amount of torque in first gear.

Is it possible to set the LC to work in second gear? Not sure if the innovate makes enough torque/power to make that effective, but it's an idea.
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Old 06-04-2014, 12:15 AM   #4670
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Originally Posted by sales@delicioustuning.com View Post
...
The first being that when boosting a motor that was NA from the factory, it should be common practice to let her warm up before pushing her at all. This applies even to factory cars. You don't have to let the car sit and idle, but for the sake of your car, boosted or not, tuned or not, it's always a good idea to drive easy and keep it under 4k until the oil reaches operating temperature. This is usually 10 minutes or so.
In 85deg weather, I've noticed my car takes ~4miles for my oil to reach 180F. I baby it until I'm at a min 180F, then I drive my car hard. Never had a P0302 error (knock on wood).
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Old 06-04-2014, 08:02 AM   #4671
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Is it possible for a tune to engage a rev limiter at 4k until temps rise after a cold start?

This is probably a retarded post. I'm somewhat of a newb so please disregard if this makes no sense.

Not even a huge deal I just know I'm going to forget to let it warm up when I go FI.
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Old 06-04-2014, 08:18 AM   #4672
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Is it possible for a tune to engage a rev limiter at 4k until temps rise after a cold start?

This is probably a retarded post. I'm somewhat of a newb so please disregard if this makes no sense.

Not even a huge deal I just know I'm going to forget to let it warm up when I go FI.
Not a good idea. Sometimes you HAVE to go fast to prevent traffic problems and putting in a rev limit mid powerband would be scary. If you've ever pulled out into traffic and traction control was activated due to minor wheel spin then you would know the "oh shit!" Feeling that comes with the car not doing what you are telling it to do.

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Old 06-04-2014, 11:43 AM   #4673
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Less intrusively, could the shift light/beep be programmed to go from 4K up to the owner's normal programmed point based on temps?

Just thinking out loud...
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Old 06-04-2014, 11:45 AM   #4674
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Originally Posted by TemeCal View Post
In 85deg weather, I've noticed my car takes ~4miles for my oil to reach 180F. I baby it until I'm at a min 180F, then I drive my car hard. Never had a P0302 error (knock on wood).
Which fuel do you use? I drive mostly the same way - and I never saw the problem with E85, now heading down to 93 however I can reproduce it back to back days with the tank registering around E20.

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Old 06-04-2014, 12:26 PM   #4675
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Which fuel do you use? I drive mostly the same way - and I never saw the problem with E85, now heading down to 93 however I can reproduce it back to back days with the tank registering around E20.

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I'm running crappy California 91oct.
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Old 06-04-2014, 12:46 PM   #4676
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You guys talking about misfire codes?

I got some the other day when my boost was set a bit too high after the header install. 14 psi was causing misfires at the top of the rev range. I was advised by my tuner to gap down my plugs as this tends to happen when you raise the boost on stock NA plug gap.

We have since brought the boost back down to 12 psi and the misfires disappeared.

Maybe some of you are hitting a misfire "wall" with your individual setups? Are some of you registering more boost than others? I remember my 70 mm pulley would run different boost levels based on mods/tune.
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