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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous |
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07-25-2018, 12:07 AM | #15 |
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RIP to your transmission bro
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07-25-2018, 12:14 AM | #16 |
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Not another one of these threads
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The Following User Says Thank You to FRSBRZGT86FAN For This Useful Post: | why? (07-25-2018) |
07-25-2018, 12:17 AM | #17 | |
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Didn't need to post it all over the forum, the Forced induction forum would've and will help you . Someone already answered your question pretty well anyway. You have to sacrifice some reliability.....
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07-25-2018, 12:25 AM | #18 | |
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You may wish to reassess your goals of speed and longevity. It seems with this engine .. you should pick one. This car will never be able to handle as well as a well driven Porsche, nor will this car (with the FA20 engine) be able to beat a higher end Mustang on the straights. How about a relatively mild supercharger and a good set of tires .. humfrz |
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07-25-2018, 12:37 AM | #19 | |
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Not to be an ahole but I have two cents on this. First, you said you prefer NA but you’re looking for a super charger, doesn’t make sense, sounds like you want a naturally aspirated engine with a super charger. Two, NA from what I’ve seen, I think with e85 you could get mid 200s wheel. As for FI, a ton of cars push 7-10 pounds of boost without issues, it really depends on the tune on how you treat the car imo, supporting mods, if it’s dogged/tracked, etc. I’ve also seen cars push 400+ wheel on stock internals and I am relatively certain a couple companies have pushed 500+ on 20+ pounds of boost on stock internals for a “relatively” long time. Really comes down to tune, you could run a car NA and blow it at 230 wheel with a bad tune and keep a car going for 20k miles with 350+ on boost with a good one as long as it’s treated properly. Regardless, 300 wheel seems more than reasonable, and I’d do some research on FI applications, tons on this site, but it will cost at least 8-10k, maybe a little less if you diy, no matter which way you go. Godspeed whatever you decide, and best of luck Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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07-25-2018, 12:57 AM | #20 | |
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cowardice is the mother of cruelty. |
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07-25-2018, 01:52 AM | #21 |
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07-25-2018, 01:54 AM | #22 | |
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07-25-2018, 01:56 AM | #23 | |
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07-25-2018, 01:59 AM | #24 |
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My only thing is, if I go PTuning turbo for around 10 grand. I know it's meant for the car to blow at any moment.. The only thing holding me back is spending that 10 grand and having to order a NEW FA20 and do a motor swap.... etc. How much money would that be usually for a engine swap? (labor. Motor not included)
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07-25-2018, 02:05 AM | #25 |
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So which is it, NA or forced induction?
I think you just need to go to the shop with your $8K in cash, wave it around and say, "What will this get me?" Then just take what they install on your car and be happy with it since you won't know the difference anyway. |
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07-25-2018, 02:29 AM | #26 | |
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Some easy reading: https://www.drifted.com/frs-supercharger/ humfrz |
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07-25-2018, 02:56 AM | #27 |
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I'm Australian based and proudly have a bunch of Australian designed and build aftermarket bits:
- I have a water to air intercooled turbo from Coyoda. Based on a GTX2863 turbo, bottom mount on cast iron headers - MoTec ECU and Dash - Holinger sequential dogbox - e85 (with flex fuel) - Bosch 1050cc port injectors - all the supporting mods (bigger fuel pumps, clutch, oil coolers etc) 241rwkW on e85. Just rebuilt the engine after the bent rods. Closed deck, Carillo rods and pistons, MLS gasket, studs, port and polish etc. Should get it back tomorrow with the new engine. The car is daily driven with some track time. Now I have the stronger engine the big turbo will be the next upgrade (at a later date) My understanding is that the rods are the weak link and low-end torque is the killer of rods. It all depends on your definition of reliable. Plenty of cars our there on stock internals making similar power. But you only need a handful of failures to put a big hole in 'reliable'. I'd done my research, was well informed and was very confident my power goals on the small GTX2863 were inside the curve of 'safe' on the stock internals - but I was proven wrong. |
07-25-2018, 06:57 AM | #28 |
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If reliability/cost are a concern, you may want to stay away from f.i. and buy a faster car. Another option is to buy a used 86 with f.i. already installed. Definitely cheaper
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