05-02-2019, 11:17 PM | #1135 |
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Okay well I ordered the V2(spec) kit. UEL, Recirculated with the GT2860rs. I got the Delicious/EcuTek flash and go tune. JDl bumper bar. JDl oil cooler, Velox air/oil separator, and a vent boost gauge.. Do i need the low profile Fans or just the shroud? What else am I missing?
Last edited by Conman; 05-09-2019 at 10:49 PM. |
05-10-2019, 10:32 PM | #1136 |
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05-10-2019, 10:35 PM | #1137 | |
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I had no issues on the install with mine. I switched to a bigger intercooler because I want more power in the future. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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05-10-2019, 11:43 PM | #1138 |
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No, you can make 400whp with a GT2860RS, e85 and about 14psi.
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05-11-2019, 04:00 AM | #1139 |
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I'm going to have to get another shop to check out my car. My current tuner only has me making 300whp at 14psi on e85. I have a low compression built motor but with a 10psi wastegate spring and boost controller, I should be able to run close to 20 psi and make over 400whp on e85.
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05-11-2019, 08:19 AM | #1140 | |
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05-12-2019, 08:37 PM | #1141 | |
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Is it safe to run E85 with the 2860r on low boost 7psi, on the stock engine? |
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05-13-2019, 02:29 AM | #1142 | |
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Do you know what the power limitations are for the non-cut intercooler? Did you see instant hp/tq increases when you made the change? |
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05-13-2019, 01:14 PM | #1143 |
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as safe as you can be. Biggest things that make these motor go pop is bad tune, and improper install. As with any modification and with adding more power/boost the best you can do is limit your risk. You will never 100% get rid of it.
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RCE T2's, SPC LCAs -4/2.6 camber JDL 4-2-1 EL, FP and OP, Tuned by Zach@CSG on e85 RR Wilwood Front/Rear Sport BBK, Motul 600 Fluid ARC-8 17x9 SX2 GTs 245s/Koing 17x8 v730's 225's |
05-13-2019, 02:18 PM | #1144 |
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So I ordered the EcuTek/Delicious Flash and Go E-tune software w/Bluetooth, cable and license already. . My tuner/installer recommended doing E85 because it runs much cooler/safer. Thinking I just order the flex fuel add on to the tune and run with stock injectors and stock fuel pump if I want to keep it low boost on stock engine.
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05-13-2019, 02:23 PM | #1145 | |
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05-22-2019, 07:29 PM | #1146 |
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Does anyone have any tips for the install? I'll be doing it in a few weeks and one of the parts I'm most apprehensive about is the oil pan removal/replacement. My plan is to use a heat gun and fishing wire to cut through the sealant, a pry bar if necessary, and then a razor blade or a scouring pad to clean the mating surface. Any tips specifically on technique for applying the new sealant? I'm worried about having enough to make a seal but also not overdoing it. I also read that you shouldn't tighten the bolts all the way until the sealant has hardened/cured/whatever.
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05-22-2019, 08:36 PM | #1147 | |
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I don't know anything about not tightening it down until it's cured, that seems like nonsense to me. You want it to cure when it's in its fixed position. Just don't get it hot or add oil until it has cured. |
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05-22-2019, 08:52 PM | #1148 |
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Thanks. Maybe the instruction I saw wasn't to wait until it was completely cured, but to give it a few minutes before tightening. The way I understood it was that immediately tightening the pan all the way would cause the sealant to smush out instead of being where it needs to be to make the seal.
I was also considering installing an oil baffle while I have the pan off, as a means of future-proofing. Any opinion on this? |
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