CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by ApexEight

Yeah I'm just going out to have fun. I don't even run with SCCA (local chapter offering isn't worth it to me).

Will the sway bar turn my car into a understeering pig?

No not at all. The Strano bar is hollow so it's not as stiff as everyone is assuming, it's softer than a 20mm Whiteline bar iirc Whitelines fake table.

Your front camber is lacking and you will have to be careful on corner entry to not over drive the front grip you have available. More front camber will allow you to go deeper into the corner so to speak and power out harder. Don't over think it, just go drive it, you have a fun setup on your hands, when you feel like the car is holding you back have a fast driver get in it and show you what's still left in the car you're not using.

A stiffer front bar reduces the pain of not having enough camber as well, not by much but by a little.

[Racecomp Engineering]

More front camber would help (and I think you should be able to get more with the bolts you listed).

- Andrew

[Gearhead1]

Originally Posted by Cybmx

Perhaps relocate the endlinks mounting point to the lower control arms? I had the same issue when pushing my velox camber plates all the way in, so now I have to leave a little room.

I would love to get rid of those cockamamie mounting points on the struts but in order for the sway bar to have correct leverage, it needs to be tied to suspension movement at the outboard end of the control arm. Connecting to near the inner end of the LCA would render the sway bar nearly useless.

[RJasonKlein]

Originally Posted by ApexEight

Yeah I'm just going out to have fun. I don't even run with SCCA (local chapter offering isn't worth it to me).

Will the sway bar turn my car into a understeering pig?

It sounds like you’ve thought things through pretty carefully and you got a great deal on your parts - and that’s awesome! My car is on square 8K Swift springs and has a natural tendency toward mild understeer. With that direct experience, my first inclination on a daily driven car was to avoid stiffening the front anti-roll bar, but it sounds like it’s desirable to compromise a little on balance at the limit for improved response - that makes sense to me.

My current alignment settings are:

Front:

• Camber: -2.5°
• Caster: 6.5°
• Toe: 0

Rear:

• Camber: -2°
• Toe: 0°

I’m really pleased with my settings, so I think similar camber settings will serve you well.

[n0thing]

ap sprint kit here, is hawk dtc30 a good match with re71r and kwv3? using hp+ at the rear. -3.2F -2.4R

[cjd]

Originally Posted by n0thing

ap sprint kit here, is hawk dtc30 a good match with re71r and kwv3? using hp+ at the rear. -3.2F -2.4R

Whats your use? Everything I've read suggests hawk are hard on wheels... I'll leave it to others to chime in on those though.

I like the Carbotech AX-6 I've been using. Really impressed with a drive on Winmax W3 as well (note, not with Sprint kit). Autocross and street for me, the guy with the W3 also does some track days in think... Assume he'll step up to more pad at some point for track.

Do keep the same pads on both ends.

[norcalpb]

Looking for advice on what to do for suspension.

I currently have Koni inserts, rce tarmac springs, hvt front plates and oem rear mounts. This setup has about 80,000 miles on them and I feel like they’ve lost “something”. I figure these Konis are almost done and I want to upgrade.

For my next setup my main concern is going to be comfort. The roads around me are getting bumpier every year. Knowing this would you guys recommend swapping out the Konis for Bilstein b6 or replace everything with tein flex A? I have heard that the flex A is comfortable and I’d only drop it 20mm or so. The bilsteins have a great reputation for performance however.

[Pat]

Why not Bilstein B16? It sounds like we have similar priorities. That's what I ordered.

[norcalpb]

Originally Posted by Pat

Why not Bilstein B16? It sounds like we have similar priorities. That's what I ordered.

That sounds like a great option...don’t know what the most comfortable in that price range is thought because that’s what I want.

[Pat]

Based on my research I expect that's it. If not, it's close.

[norcalpb]

Originally Posted by Pat

Based on my research I expect that's it. If not, it's close.

The B16 seems ideal, it’s just the price that’s holding me back.

I could do b16: $1,900

Or b8 + sti rear top hats + whiteline control arms + Federal RSR/RR + track day all for $120 cheaper...

My friend has Ohlins on his GR sti and they are comfortable but I don’t know if I’d really get the max benefit of dual adjustability. I look at it like golf drivers with adjustments on the head. You better already have a perfect swing before you step up to something like that

[Pat]

Call Andy or Myles at RCE and ask them about what a set of B16s might cost. It's worth a phone call just to be sure.

[bdtbdtbdt]

Set Up Question? I'm getting ready to install some RCE Tarmac 2 coilovers on my 15 Frs. I'm lowering about an inch from stock height. Should my end link length change because of the lowering. 'Im going to adjustable end links. I'm (wild guessing) thinking of going a bit (1/4 in.) shorter in rear and 3/4 in in front. Any help on this one. Thanks for the forum!

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by bdtbdtbdt

Set Up Question? I'm getting ready to install some RCE Tarmac 2 coilovers on my 15 Frs. I'm lowering about an inch from stock height. Should my end link length change because of the lowering. 'Im going to adjustable end links. I'm (wild guessing) thinking of going a bit (1/4 in.) shorter in rear and 3/4 in in front. Any help on this one. Thanks for the forum!

Your endlinks should be adjusted so that they just line up with the holes with the car on the ground. The goal is zero preload.

Fronts will probably need to be adjusted, rears might not need much.

- Andrew