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Old 06-26-2019, 09:34 AM   #1
Phoenix_gts86
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Smile [INSTALL GUIDE] Bee*R Power Module 25th Anniversary Type B [SMART ENTRY]

ADMIN PLEASE STICKY

Bee*R 25th Anniversary Power Module Type B - Toyota GTS86 SMART ENTRY

Tools you will need:
-Wire Stripper (a must)
-Electrical Tape (a must)
-Heat Shrink (not a must)
-Soldering Iron (a must)
-Solder (a must)
-Newspaper (a must)
-Heat Gun/Cigarette Lighter (not a must)

-Once your Bee*R arrives, ignore the Wiring Diagram instructions for the Smart Entry 86 System and follow my Guide.

-My guide is what works for me AFTER trying for about 10 weeks to get my Bee*R working because the Wiring Diagram and instructions that were given for the install did NOT at all work for me. Mind you.. when i say 10 weeks,
I tried many ideas, this and that and I can honestly say my guide is what works, at least for me (Smart Entry).

-I had asked a fair few amount of people for help and I got people where they didn't know what Bee*R was and people where they knew about them or had one themselves but the Bee*R wouldn't operate properly like it should or it didn't operate at all.

The Official Steps in order to make your Toyota GTS Smart Entry - SHOOT 4 FOOT FLAMES!!!

IMPORTANT NOTES:

-It's important that you DO NOT fix your Bee*R to a position/location until you have tried and tested your Bee*R.

1. We need to locate the 5 wires coming from our Bee*R onto our
-Yellow - IGNITION. CYLINDER 2.OUTPUT
-Grey - Launch Control Handbrake/Clutch
-Red - 12v+
-Black - Ground
-Green - NE+ Engine Speed/Crankshaft Angle Position Sensor

-These wires coming from the Bee*R will come already stripped for your convenience.

2. We need to locate the 5 wires that i previous said earlier in step 1, onto the ECU behind the Glove Box, our ECU has 4 plugs.

We will be using only 2 of these plugs and they are:

A36 plug 34 pinouts:
-Black Wire - Pin 4
-Yellow Wire - Pin 31

A34 plug 35 pinouts:
-Green Wire - Pin 16
-Red Wire - Pin 6

Wiring Diagram link for the ECU Pinouts:
-http://www.ft86club.com/files/BRZwiringi.pdf on Page 389

-The Grey wire we use as our Launch Control - You can utilise your launch control for either:
-Your handbrake signal wire or for your clutch signal wire.
-By having your Grey Wire Launch Control wire going to the Clutch
signal wire you wont need to lift up between gears, this will engage FFS=Flat Foot Shifting.
-In Boosted applications this is specially helpful while this keeps us in the positive boost areas.

Good To Know:
Switches on the side:
-Switch 1: OFF
-Switch 2: OFF
-Switch 3: OFF
-Switch 4: ON

Dials on the front:
-Rev 1: Redline (Left Dial)
-Rev 2: Launch Control (Middle Dial)
-GAIN: Fast and Slow frequency of spark/ignition cut 1-F (Right Dial)
-1 Being the fastest spark/ignition cut = Bapapapapap
-F being the slowest spark ignition cut = BANG BANG BANG
-For some.. the sweet spot is 9, for some the sweet spot is on a later GAIN.
Have a play.

-Between all 3 DIALS you will need to find that sweet spot for you and your car, and what you plan to perform with your Bee*R, whether its for show, or a perfect launch etc.

Throwing CEL Codes?
-No codes should show but if they do, make sure you have an OBD-II port device Code Reader to clear the thrown codes
and try a different GAIN.
-Codes also may throw from operating the Bee*R too often at one given time or perhaps in quick intervals.
-In all honesty I think the Bee*R is mainly great for pleasing an audience of flames.

-If you're reading this and you have your Bee*R working or know a friend or someone who has their Bee*R working on a NON-SMART ENTRY 86 system, please pm me or message me here and I'll add the instructions here and give you credit, just so all the information is in one place.

-Or If you're a person who has a Bee*R and you're a NON-SMART ENTRY System 86 and the unit doesn't operate, I may have a wiring Diagram for you that is untested but could just work but at your own risk but hey life is full of taking risks.

-I am not held responsible for anything that blows, this is my guide that safely works for me, use at your own risk.

-Pictures can be provided if a written explanation is not clear enough.

Have Questions?

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Instagram: Phoenix_gts86

Last edited by Phoenix_gts86; 06-26-2019 at 05:51 PM.
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Old 07-01-2019, 05:28 PM   #2
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A photo of my Bee*R Ignition cut in Action


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Old 07-05-2019, 09:01 PM   #3
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Hi Buddy! Thanks for sharing your instructions.
Can you upload a video for us? i can't find something on yt.

Is the Bee R only using Cylinder 2 for ignition cut? Why especcially cylinder 2?

Thanks!
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Old 07-05-2019, 09:48 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by stefodrom View Post
Hi Buddy! Thanks for sharing your instructions.
Can you upload a video for us? i can't find something on yt.

Is the Bee R only using Cylinder 2 for ignition cut? Why especcially cylinder 2?

Thanks!


Hey stefodrom, I’m on Mobile and have the content footage and everything on my Mobile using Tapatalk, is there a way to upload videos in replies?
This is just so I can share the videos.

I’m yet to discover why this is what it is, this signal output for the cylinder 2 is what works for me so I’m going with it


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Old 09-03-2019, 05:59 AM   #5
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Thnx alot for this thread


Can u plz explain how I can fix bee r at my scion frs (turbo)
No smart entry
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Old 09-03-2019, 06:07 AM   #6
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Thnx alot for this thread


Can u plz explain how I can fix bee r at my scion frs (turbo)
No smart entry


Do you have Instagram? I can pm you to help you


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Old 09-03-2019, 02:36 PM   #7
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Do you have Instagram? I can pm you to help you


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This is my Instagram account




sam.al.bdaai
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Old 09-04-2019, 01:02 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by solidsnake11 View Post
How many times have you used this?
Thanks.


How many times have I used the bee*r?


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Old 09-04-2019, 01:05 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by solidsnake11 View Post
One more question did you melt your bumper?


Nah mate that half snapped and broken off, either that or someone ripped it off clean.


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Old 09-04-2019, 01:30 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by solidsnake11 View Post
Yes,

I have been playing around with the $10 anti-lag mod. Use relay to unhook IAT. Computer thinks its -40 and then edit rom to retard timing down to -17 @ -40 to burn fuel in exhaust. But I need a low rev limit to be able to hold throttle open without engine rpms running away. I'm running a gt4202 so my slingshot doesn't release till 5000rpm but its pulled way back by that time.

A low rev limit without cutting fuel, to cut ignition spark would be the ideal situation here.

A cheap alternative is to go with ecutek and create custom maps to have them all activate on launch control.

An expensive alternative is to go with a PnP Standalone ECU that offers the Motorsport feature Anti-Lag.

For what you’re doing can only work while stationary?



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Old 09-04-2019, 01:48 AM   #11
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I have a standalone, emissions testing keeps me from using it.


What PnP do you have?


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Old 09-09-2019, 11:36 PM   #12
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So I hooked a bee*r up today and light flashes cuts small amount of spark. I used coil 1 so that was pin 21 for 1 degree.



I bought it off ebay so that is probably the problem.


Cool no problem I’ll pm you as there are a few things to check as well


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Old 09-10-2019, 08:16 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by solidsnake11 View Post
So i rewired the yellow wire to tach wire, unfortunately still does not work a35 15 gr red = yellow.

I'm done with this cheap clone, waiting on the real one now.


I have pmd you


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Old 09-16-2019, 03:15 PM   #14
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Dear


Can u plz attached some pictures for wireing and location of each wire
This could help as alot



2morrow I'll get my bee rev

So I need some help with it


MT turbo FRS



Thnx again
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