Lets learn to drive manual! Save my clutch Season 1

[ChirpChirpChirp]

On my drive home I paid extra close attention to what I was doing:
Tiny blip of the throttle just as I start to lift off the clutch, RPMs up to 1.8-2k
As I continue releasing the clutch RPMs are falling from the blip and from the clutch engaging, slowly roll back on the throttle, RPMs dip as low as 1-1.2k.
By the time RPMs rise back to 1.5k I'm fully off the clutch.
This process takes less than 1.5 seconds.

Also, as some reassurance, my first manual was a 98 VW Cabrio with 65k miles. I was completely self-taught, so I applied the clutch liberally. I had no idea about rev. matching so would use the clutch to bring the engine up to speed when downshifting. I'd also start in 2nd or 3rd on accident from time to time and just let the clutch slip until I was up to speed. Then the car was handed down to my little brother who learned to drive stick on it. It just needs a new clutch now at 140k miles.

[SirBrass]

I did that with my 08 WRX & it needed a new clutch kit (disc was almost gone & throw out bearing disintegrated) at 53k miles.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

[Suberman]

Originally Posted by calidus

So I think I finally get how this works. The smoothness of my start is based on how smooth I can release the clutch? So in theory I can have a really smooth start at 5k rpms, if I was really good.

The amount of wear on the clutch is based on how fast the engine is turning relative to the transmission and how much time the clutch spends between fully pressed and fully depressed?

Correct.

One impressive feature of this high winding boxer engine is just how smoothly it delivers torque at very low rpm. Granted it doesn't produce much but if produces enough.

You can quite easily get this car moving by engaging the clutch slowly and smoothly at idle speeds.

The car is also quite happy cruising along at under 2,000 rpm around town.

Then you can just let 'er rip to 7,400 and no complaints from the valve train, the engine just lunges forward and pulls like a train, a very small train but impressive in its own way.

Beautiful engine.

[SirBrass]

Just DO

NOT

RIDE

THE

CLUTCH

PEDAL!

This may seem obvious, OP, and I hope it is to you, b/c that'll mean you've been taught correctly.

Don't even lightly rest your foot on the clutch pedal b/c you'll wear your clutch prematurely. It's a wear part, but not like brake pads are.

When cruising, plant that left foot on the dead pedal (the plate to the left of the clutch pedal) and leave it there.

If you already do this, great! If not, start. It'll save you money & clutch performance.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

[kuhlka]

Has anyone been clutchless shifting their BRZ?

If you're interested in trying. Get rolling about 50mph in 5th, let off the throttle and immediately click into neutral with light pressure on 6th (still off the throttle). It'll click into 6th without grinding once you hit the proper RPM. Once it does, go back on the throttle. It's not something for racing, but it works great for light cruising trying to maximize fuel economy and clutch life. Clutchless downshifting works the same way, except you have to give the throttle a blip to get up to the right rpm.

Note - DO NOT FORCE THE SHIFTER INTO GEAR. You'll grind. Just give the shifter a nice light pressure on the next gear and it'll click once you hit the right rpm. Let the synchros do the work for you.

Also, if you aren't really smooth this CAN cause increased transmission wear over time or damage to gears if you're grinding away like a jackass. Transmissions generally run 3-5k to replace/repair. Clutches are a lot less expensive, but still pricey. Hoon at your own peril.

[chrisl]

Originally Posted by kuhlka

Has anyone been clutchless shifting their BRZ?

If you're interested in trying. Get rolling about 50mph in 5th, let off the throttle and immediately click into neutral with light pressure on 6th (still off the throttle). It'll click into 6th without grinding once you hit the proper RPM. Once it does, go back on the throttle. It's not something for racing, but it works great for light cruising trying to maximize fuel economy and clutch life. Clutchless downshifting works the same way, except you have to give the throttle a blip to get up to the right rpm.

Note - DO NOT FORCE THE SHIFTER INTO GEAR. You'll grind. Just give the shifter a nice light pressure on the next gear and it'll click once you hit the right rpm. Let the synchros do the work for you.

Also, if you aren't really smooth this CAN cause increased transmission wear over time or damage to gears if you're grinding away like a jackass. Transmissions generally run 3-5k to replace/repair. Clutches are a lot less expensive, but still pricey. Hoon at your own peril.

You can do that, but it's hard on the synchros...

[SirBrass]

Originally Posted by chrisl

You can do that, but it's hard on the synchros...

And why overly wear the synchros to save a wear part? The clutch is supposed to be a wearing part in order to extend the life of the synchros & to make shifting smoother and easier.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

[carma143]

I thought that it would be easier for beginners to know exactly how a manual transmission works. Found a neat video showing an animation of exactly that. Hope it helps.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8KDuk2-4s6E"]Manual Transmission Animation - YouTube[/ame]

[Kelbyat07]

Someone teach me how to drive manual well..

[chrisl]

Originally Posted by Kelbyat07

Someone teach me how to drive manual well..

I would be happy to, but Chicago is kinda far from here...

[Kelbyat07]

Originally Posted by chrisl

I would be happy to, but Chicago is kinda far from here...

Don't get my hopes up like that

[AznKirby]

Nice initiative, OP (I know I'm late)
That subaruwrxfan is an idiot though lol

[b rawr z]

Originally Posted by calidus

After putting a 100 miles of city driving on the car I am getting much more comfortable(stupid weather has prevented me from driving it as much as I would like). I still need a lot of practice on hills.

I was wonder if I could get some general advice when it comes to driving a manual when you get in shitty situations? Things like trying to avoid accidents and sliding on ice.

Idk if anybody mentioned it here but I just found out that if u get stuck in snow, use 2nd gear. I just got the car last saturday and have been driving auto for 5 years. So I didnt really know.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

[calidus]

Not driving manual for 2 weeks because of the snow has completely ruined me. I was stalling every other stop sign tonight in my neighborhood.