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Mechanical Maintenance (Oil, Fluids, Break-In, Servicing) Everything related to the mechanical maintenance of the FR-S and BRZ |
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07-25-2014, 10:07 AM | #113 | |
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07-25-2014, 01:42 PM | #114 |
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07-25-2014, 03:16 PM | #115 |
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It should take 8 quarts roughly or 2 gallons to complete this. You may be on the low end.
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07-25-2014, 08:55 PM | #116 | |
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Removing my intake in the morning to check all my worm clamps and specifically that water pump hose to the lower radiator. Stock spring clamps sucked ass to use on the lower radiator. Didn't fit over the Mishimoto hose while on the lower inlet. |
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07-26-2014, 12:33 AM | #117 |
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Ok, everybody stop. Just stop.
Put your degrees back in your pants. Jeeeeezus! Ideal gas law? Are you shitting me? Are there people here that know better and are just watching this slow train-wreck? ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~When it works~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ The cooling system is a CLOSED system. In normal operation there is NO PHASE CHANGE. In normal operation the LIQUID coolant expands a little until it reaches a specific pressure. Then, at a constant elevated pressure, continues to expand through the high-pressure check valve into the reservoir until the engine reaches operating temperature. When it cools down, as the LIQUID contracts, it sucks liquid back through a much weaker check valve. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~When it's broken~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Now, assume your radiator cap has even a tiny leak in the big check valve. Big problem. Eventually, pressure bleeds down to the point at which the solution will boil at engine operating temperature... ...and, like a pressure cooker will continue to BURP VAPOR into the reservoir at a rate relative to the size of the leak and the engine operating temperature. From there, it will escape out the little hole in the top. Ok, so, forgive me if someone already mentioned or implied it, not only must the system reach a certain pressure, it must hold it. Any questions? I'm here all night. If I don't know, I will admit it. |
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07-27-2014, 05:25 PM | #118 |
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Don't add just water to the overflow tank if you live in freezing conditions, the overflow tank may freeze and crack. Mix at least 50% coolant with the water or just use pure coolant as that will do no damage if it "freezes".
It takes a long time for the engine coolant to mix with the expansion tank coolant enough to freeze protect the overflow tank. |
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10-11-2014, 08:04 AM | #119 |
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FRS uses a lot of coolant?
I have a similar problem and after checking around i keep coming back to this thread. My reservoir coolant level keeps dropping. I last filled it, once cold to the full mark the 5th of october and now its already half way between low and full. Only six days after and half of it in the reservoir is gone?? There are no leaks anywhere that i could see, the radiator is completely full, any ideas? I really dread the trips to the dealers as i honestly think they are the worse people to work on the car but i don't have a mechanic and the car's got 7k miles on it.
For reference and future help to anyone with a similar problem. I took the car to the dealer and they did a pressure leak test. They found nothing, they say as long as the coolant in the reservoir doesn't go below the "low" mark, it's ok. If the coolant level drops below the low mark at any time then they'll have to perform other tests.
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Last edited by yomny; 10-11-2014 at 03:14 PM. |
12-07-2014, 12:56 PM | #120 |
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Silly thought...
My old BMW E36 M3 used to drop coolant... about a liter a season... some factors to consider...
1. Evaporation - between the heat of the engine and weather, it happens. After all, what's right under the reservoir? The catalytic convertor. 2. The heater core - if you've been using this lately, and haven't ever topped off the coolant tank, it can hold an easy quart of fluid. Hope this helps. |
12-08-2014, 06:54 AM | #121 |
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I have the Mishimoto radiator and hose kit. I also bought the tbolt clamps they had as well. My previous coolant issue loss with the stock hoses is now gone. Thinking the seal on the stock system is bad because my coolant has been full for 2 months now when hot.
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12-08-2014, 06:34 PM | #122 |
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this thread got me all nervous last night haha. i bought my frs used on june 9th with 36k on it, and i do remember seeing the coolant level at 'full' when i brought it home. it was in the high 60's that day. i checked it this morning before leaving for work at 6am, it was just above the 'low' lettering...it was probably mid to low 20's outside. when i got to work, it was about half an inch under the full line. it did the same thing when i left work and got home as well, so i'm going to assume mine is acting normal. i'm definitely going to keep an eye on it though. all oem on my car.
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12-09-2014, 08:04 AM | #123 |
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I just checked my coolant again yesterday and it's still at the full mark.
I think the key is two things: Silicon hoses Clamps that aren't worm clamps (T-Bolt, or Constant Tension Bolt, Spring Bolt) I'm willing to put more on the clamps being the key. Some FR-S/BRZ's I've checked in my area do not have coolant issues being newer models (2014/2015) but it is not consistent. It all depends on how well it is sealed and the clamps are the first place I would start. |
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01-19-2015, 07:55 PM | #124 |
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Seem familiar? Maybe the leak is at the inlet to the reservoir. Going to check it out tomorrow in detail. It doesn't seem serious as I've only reached the 'low' mark 3 times since 2012.
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01-23-2015, 06:34 AM | #125 | |
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That milky residue can also be condensation from not driving the car to operating temperature. |
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