10-03-2018, 03:19 AM | #71 |
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5w-30 huhhh, hmmmm . I may make that switch.
**Use Redline Water Wetter (in your coolant) , that is suppose to reduce coolant temperatures, only costs about $10-13 !!! Problem solved!
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10-03-2018, 09:56 AM | #72 | |
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10-03-2018, 09:59 AM | #73 | |
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I think WaterWetter does the opposite, actually....it facilitates the transfer of heat better because it's a surfactant, so the engine transfers MORE of it's heat to the coolant and to the radiator, ultimately keeping the motor cooler.
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10-03-2018, 04:56 PM | #74 | |
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10-03-2018, 04:58 PM | #75 |
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It might also transfer more heat out the radiator, thus keeping the coolant cooler upon measurement.
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10-03-2018, 08:52 PM | #76 |
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Sorry, I thought that was the goal of this thread. Not over heating the engine/ coolent, and running as cool as.possible ( coolent temp not under 180 F, but something in between 190-205 F, and if engine oil is bound to be hotter....say 220-250 F , but as engine temp increase oil can break down, so on and so fourth.). So if engine oil is 250 F, what good/ bad is that? Run hot, but not too hot. Track Oct.- April, but not during summer time....how about that?
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Last edited by Adam_L; 10-03-2018 at 09:02 PM. |
10-05-2018, 03:07 PM | #77 | |
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Did anyone catch this in the original post?
Quote:
Our positive displacement oil pumps are essentially constant flow machines. Increasing viscosity of a fluid in a fixed system with a positive displacement pump, increases system resistance (pressure) but does not decrease flow unless there is unanticipated system leakage or in the case of our engines (and most), a pressure relief valve. Assuming the oiling system is operating at pressures below the point that fluid escapes past the PRV, then a change in viscosity will change pressure but not flow. With multi-viscosity oils you can also run a thicker oil without sacrificing startup wear. In short, a 0w-40 should produce the same protection at startup as a 0w-20 (because 0W) but at operating temp it will produce more pressure (because 40) and if the PRV isn't part of the equation, the flow will be more or less the same.
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10-11-2018, 02:48 AM | #78 |
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Thanks for pointing that out. I'm still putting together all the puzzle pieces, doing my best to make sense of it all.
So 0w-20 oil is the recommendation by Toyota. I see that definitely being good Fall thru Winter. So possibly a 0w-30 ( or 5w-30) in Spring thru Summer ? The two kickers of having a oil cooler for your engine: 1. initially watching for leaks, take care of them asap. 2. upon doing an oil change , making sure all the old oil is out of the system thru gravity . If the engine takes about 7.5 quarts of oil, not sure how much extra ( 1-2 quarts ? ) the oil cooler will hold upon doing a oil change. Its extra oil for the system, just making sure to drain it all is important. On the oil cooler situation, can anyone recommend a good system to go with ? I'm not up on brands and models, of what's what. Thanks in advance
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10-11-2018, 02:54 AM | #79 | ||
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And California temperature doesn't change enough to really consider changing oil weights.
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10-11-2018, 10:29 AM | #80 | |
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Seriously?? I didn't look at the data sheets when making the change; I just assumed Mobil wasn't using some sort of marketing trickery in their ratings...crap. I might move away from Mobil1 entirely then...
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10-11-2018, 01:49 PM | #81 | |
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Where I live, in winter it can get as cold as upper teens, to low 20's F. In the summer July-Sept, it can get as hot as 100-110 F ambient temps.
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10-11-2018, 01:56 PM | #82 | ||
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https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_20...1311AA180.html https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_20...1317AA070.html Pipes & clamps at your local hardware store. Do note that the coolant ports under the throttle body have slightly different sizes (one being a bit smaller) which is why I suggest grabbing clamps.
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10-11-2018, 02:07 PM | #83 | |
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10-11-2018, 02:18 PM | #84 | |
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