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Old 10-28-2014, 01:12 PM   #43
nadbrz
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Originally Posted by Kayshart View Post
Need some advice please.

I wish to accomplish 2 things:
1) insulation on the roof so that it doesn't sound like a tin can when it rains,
2) insulation on the wheel wells to reduce tyre/road noise

I would like to know, will CLD tiles do the job? Or do I need something else?
From what I know all it does is add weight to change the resonance frequency of the sheet metal correct?

Any recommended brand of CLD tiles?

Also, anyone have pictures for installing sound insulation on the wheel wells that I can refer to for DIY?

Thanks a lot!
Yes, CDL will dampen the noise by adding weight to the metal.

1) I Used dynamat and 3M thinsulate on the roof and its a very straight forward installation. Now it feels like solid, glad I did it.

2) I only used dynamat on the rear wheel wells. Remove all the carpetting in the trunk and you will see the wheel wells. They are pretty accessible.
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Old 10-29-2014, 12:29 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nadbrz View Post
Yes, CDL will dampen the noise by adding weight to the metal.

1) I Used dynamat and 3M thinsulate on the roof and its a very straight forward installation. Now it feels like solid, glad I did it.

2) I only used dynamat on the rear wheel wells. Remove all the carpetting in the trunk and you will see the wheel wells. They are pretty accessible.

Just sticking on the back of the rear wheel wells is enough to make difference?

Any idea how to do for the front wheels?
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Old 10-29-2014, 02:57 PM   #45
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I sound proofed my floor, doors and trunk, so i cant tell how difference it would make.

I never tried it for front wheel wells.
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Old 01-21-2015, 02:16 PM   #46
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Can any one help show me how to remove the b pillar I have been trying to pull it off but it's held on by something that I don't know how to remove, any help is welcomed thanks I couldn't find anything on the internet.
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Old 01-26-2015, 11:02 AM   #47
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Nalc, I'm planning on doing just my doors to start. How much MLV, CLD tile, 3M Thinsulate Acoustic and extruded butyl rope would you suggest I get to do just the doors? Great write up btw, very helpful with all the detail! Much appreciated!
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Old 01-26-2015, 11:32 AM   #48
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Really a brilliant post, thank you.

Interesting to compare this to the threads dedicated to ripping everything out of the car for weight savings, at the expense of your sanity (been there, done that).

I like the car as-is, but this is a great post.

If you had to choose a single spot to do some sound deadening in, where would you pick? Which part of the car made the biggest difference?
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Old 03-14-2015, 09:29 PM   #49
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Can any one help show me how to remove the b pillar I have been trying to pull it off but it's held on by something that I don't know how to remove, any help is welcomed thanks I couldn't find anything on the internet.
To remove the B pillar at the top, you have to first remove the quarter panel cover, and to remove that, you have to remove the seat bottom. Once you get the quarter panel cover off, there is a single 10mm bolt at the bottom of the B pillar panel. After you remove that, I believe there are a few clips, so just pull towards you.
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Old 06-13-2015, 10:48 PM   #50
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For what it is worth, to reduce noise fatigue on long trips, I use those foam ear plugs that you roll tightly between your fingers then insert in your ears and allow to expand.
They seem to selectively reduce tyre noise but still allow you to hear speech and music o.k.
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Old 11-03-2015, 01:49 PM   #51
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thank you so much for this, i don't find the road noise tooooo horrible, however i would like to bring it down some.
Ive read that a lot of the road noise does come from the rear wheel wells so i plan on doing under the rear seats, the doors, the roof and then go from there.
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Old 11-04-2015, 12:51 AM   #52
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I have noticed that some cars have a second firewall in the engine compartment. It is pressed metal, forward about 10cm / 4 inches of the other, making a cavity behind. I guess it is for further insulation of engine noise and/or body stiffening.
In our case, with the plastic front wheel arches it should help with tyre noise too.

Therefore I am toying with the idea of a "reflective sound curtain" to cover the firewall, hanging down to cover the cavity above the transmission and wrapping forward around the sides of the engine compartment. I am thinking three layers of building-foil insulation (shiny one side and blue on the other). Rather than pull off hoses, pipes and cables etc there would be slits leading to cut-outs for the hoses etc. If the slits were vertically down for one layer and horizontal for the next then vertically up for the third layer, the overlap would block sound through the openings of the slits.

Any negative or positive comments welcome.
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Old 11-05-2015, 11:41 PM   #53
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Do you know that direct noise from the rear tyres can get into the cabin via the wheel arch. The point of entry is the lowest point of the arch at the front.
If you have the interior trim off by the rear seats you can look back towards it with a mirror or camera and see light.
For a thorough discussion see http://*************/forum/f16/poten...ill-rust-4043/
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Old 11-05-2015, 11:44 PM   #54
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try this

http://*************/forum/f16/poten...ill-rust-4043/
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Old 11-06-2015, 01:17 AM   #55
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Not sure why they're blocking GT86 au but this is an easy way around. First link
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q...l-rust-4043%2F
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Old 12-21-2015, 05:39 PM   #56
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Do you know that direct noise from the rear tyres can get into the cabin via the wheel arch. The point of entry is the lowest point of the arch at the front.
If you have the interior trim off by the rear seats you can look back towards it with a mirror or camera and see light.
For a thorough discussion see http://*************/forum/f16/poten...ill-rust-4043/
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Not sure why they're blocking GT86 au but this is an easy way around. First link
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q...l-rust-4043%2F
That discussion was very helpful. Thanks for linking that. I'll be following up on both ends of that rail section. I've already had my car apart and looked down in there with much wonder as to how sound could travel down that cavity. Knowing it's actually opened to external air, I'm even more interested in sealing it and then stuffing a bunch of Thinsulate down there.

From an acoustical standpoint, sound entering from the front wheel arch would only be amplified as it bounces around in that slowly opening space. It would then travel upward towards our ears to sound like it was coming from the back wheels. Some of the sound would also be from the back - but it's just ironic that the design of the car is likely amplifying sound from both sources to make road noise far worse than it needs to be.
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