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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous


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Old 07-09-2013, 02:44 AM   #15
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I posted this in the other thread as an FYI

awesome vid dude!
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Old 07-09-2013, 02:52 AM   #16
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Has anybody contacted Vortech yet?

See if they can re design this shit and send everyone a replacement

Edit: Just checked mine and same story here





Starting to regret this purchase, should of waited for the Innovate twin screw

Last edited by Sniper2606; 07-09-2013 at 03:19 AM.
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Old 07-09-2013, 12:46 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by RedAlert View Post





Well this is what I found and put in the video, this is the only choice is to run the pipe in a higher position to avoid everything else except the hood insulation. So the question is how long before that downward pressure forces the pipe downwards.

How much is the pipe shifting under the hood when closed?
Like in my case I had clearance sometimes, and then with heat expansion sometimes not.
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Old 07-09-2013, 12:57 PM   #18
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Has anybody contacted Vortech yet?

See if they can re design this shit and send everyone a replacement

Edit: Just checked mine and same story here



Starting to regret this purchase, should of waited for the Innovate twin screw
I dont think we should regret this purchase due to a few issues here and there. We all knew there were risks involved being one of the first with the kits. The reality of doing things first to a completely new car is that we're the ones that are going to find the issues that need to be fixed for the people that buy in the future.
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Old 07-09-2013, 12:57 PM   #19
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The pipe is bolted to the engine, which moves. This would seem to mean that even if you get it to where it doesn't contact the frame rail sitting still, it probably will when the engine is moving around under acceleration and what not.
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Old 07-09-2013, 01:02 PM   #20
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If someone local wants to swing by and compare that tube.... maybe its just differences between tube runs that is causing some people to have this problem more so than others
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Old 07-09-2013, 01:04 PM   #21
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Mine was installed in April, and has always been in contact with the hood insulation. Notice the mark on the intake tube from insulation laying/contacting it. I cant remember if my hood jumped up when the hood release was pulled back in April. That indentation in the insulation doesn't move (pop out). So there is no spring action/hood pop up when the hood is released. I can grab that intake tube a with a lot of force try to move it, and it doesn't budge. I tried moving it twice during my lunch break. I think I noticed in your video the hood pop open from pressure of laying on tube? Unfortunately some of you guys are having this clearance issue. I'm sure Vortech will fix it.
Its also possible it's a variation in the tube manufacturing, some fit better than others.

When it comes down to it there are plenty of potential factors, from install, to alignment, to collar adjustment, temperature etc.
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Old 07-09-2013, 01:05 PM   #22
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If someone local wants to swing by and compare that tube.... maybe its just differences between tube runs that is causing some people to have this problem more so than others
What town you live in?
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Old 07-09-2013, 01:05 PM   #23
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What town you live in?
La Grange Park
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Old 07-09-2013, 01:07 PM   #24
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Very good point.

Quick question??? Wouldn't the pulley torque with the engine also? The whole thing/pulley/intake tube/motor would torque?? I believe the flex would fall back to the coupling between the tubes?

You can see the clearence in my pics. Never any contact of pulley lip to intake tube. Belt still looks good.
It would, but the other point of contact that you have to avoid near the headlight does not. So, if you get it all adjusted properly so that it doesn't touch the pulley, you'll want to make a couple WOT runs and check for contact between that area and the pipe afterwards.
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Old 07-09-2013, 01:24 PM   #25
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La Grange Park
You are an hour from me, we will have to meet up on a Weekend. Maybe next week?
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Old 07-09-2013, 01:44 PM   #26
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You are an hour from me, we will have to meet up on a Weekend. Maybe next week?
Sounds good, shoot me a PM when the time comes
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Old 07-14-2013, 12:16 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by RedAlert View Post
Gotcha, hopefully an 1/8" is enough for the vertical passenger pipe? Might have to consider getting stiffer motor mounts. Or split some rubber tube and put between vertical tube and frame. Will look into it. Also, I wonder if the rubber coupling will take up any of the torque movement. I read a comment that the ECU could maybe misinterpret metal on metal contact as knock and pull timing. Not to jump off topic, but I am going to datalog timing for my tune. I have two maps. The 13.9 quarter mile runs were done on map 1 and map 2, back to back.
Ill be comparing your vortech fitment to mine at the meet next Saturday.
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Old 11-07-2014, 12:11 PM   #28
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No joke this happened to me as well yesterday, belt shredded and my idler pulley on the compressor assembly looks melted in the center and off balanced and the lip is chewed off (4500 miles on my kit to). Bought a new belt and idler pulley at autozone its a 3" dayco pulley part # 89003, I contacted vortech about this today and I was told I needed to send the bad parts to them for them to be looked at and determine the cause first. I'm not going to do that since that will leave my car down for at least a week. When I easily fixed the problem myself for $35 in one day, it would cost like $20 just to ship the damn bad parts out there. Not a big deal but definatley not something I expected from a $5k kit. Pics... And more later of the pulley after I removed it since my phones acting
Lip of the plastic pulley I found melted off in the bay
It's been stellar for me on the street
But I tend to drive it like a monkey and call it testing just cause I, collecting data
Fuel delivery is my biggest issue, not the pump side but the physical fuel availability in the bowl or sump
But that aside, back to the belt

When u turn the smaller pullies or run e85 and make more power or run a ebcs the belt and the kit seems to not like two things, lots of power and sudden delivery of power, and loss of power, bouncing off limiter kills belts fastest at 14 psi

I usually deal with it

Pay the piper like one ought to expect to, running it race at all the time in heat

I only have issues with belts trackside, where it often counts most. This alone makes me want to try a turbo, but I know that animal has other beasts of heat to contend with amd I don't like any of the in front of motor turbo designs

Avo was the only vendor who has it down low, it's been eons since I looked at turbo kits, you guys know, correct me, who else makes a turbo that does t heat up my rad, belts or motor .?

Street setup with 3.33 has been 50k miles a belt so I can't complain on her daily driver
My track car I a, running thru belts like they outta style every like ten sessions before, more frequently now. I just sapped to some new pullies lets see if it brings belt life back

Now, what track proven turbo kits are there ?
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Last edited by kiichiro; 12-04-2014 at 11:04 AM.
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