(SOLVED!) Loud transmission clunk

[norcalpb]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

No, I got complete axles with CV

I’m gonna try searching eBay for a low mile one.

[Mr.ac]

Originally Posted by norcalpb

I called a couple shops and they said they replace the axle instead of rebuilding due to labor costs. They probably wanna stick me with an off-brand axle, but is that even a bad idea?

You need to call shops that only do axles. Not generic auto shops.
Every single axle can be fixed to be new. YouTube axle repair vids. You'll get the gist of the repair process.

The deal with those shops is that you have to bring the axles to them. They don't work on removal or installation.


Off brand axles are about the same quality as any non oem parts from auto parts stores. Some are awesome, some don't last as long. But does it get you going back on the road. Axles are pretty much universal the same from every car/truck. And it's really up to your wallet like I said.

[NoHaveMSG]

It's actually fairly easy, yet hella messy, to rebuild a CV. I have a local tractor repair place that rebuilds "non-rebuildable" OEM parts. I used to go their all the time for parts to rebuilt jet drives and atv/utv axles.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Mr.ac

You need to call shops that only do axles. Not generic auto shops.
Every single axle can be fixed to be new. YouTube axle repair vids. You'll get the gist of the repair process.

The deal with those shops is that you have to bring the axles to them. They don't work on removal or installation.

Ok, I'll change my tune and maybe even try to source some parts/tools to rebuild, myself the next time I have an opportunity. I've only had bad luck with discount auto part rebuilds.


Or should I just buy a Civic?

[Mr.ac]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Ok, I'll change my tune and maybe even try to source some parts/tools to rebuild myself the next time I have an opportunity. I've only had bad luck with discount auto part rebuilds.


Or should I just buy a Civic?

Duh always buy a Civic, just not a base one. Civic Si are well worth it.
Hell, did you know you can buy axles for like under $100? Even aftermarket parts are hella cheap for Civics.

[norcalpb]

Originally Posted by Mr.ac

Duh always buy a Civic, just not a base one. Civic Si are well worth it.
Hell, did you know you can buy axles for like under $100? Even aftermarket parts are hella cheap for Civics.

I rented a Type R on Turo and I absolutely loved it. It feels like a lightweight stage 2 STi with a seating position similar to the 86.

There are some at my local track days that will overtake me in braking, take the lead and start turning before I am even done with half my braking lol.

Being high mileage has had me starting to look at other cars...but that’ll get in the way of my quest to have the highest mileage BRZ.

[norcalpb]

Just wanted to update this thread:

I installed used axles from eBay ($85 each for excellent condition axles) and a new clutch with the updated TOB and Verus clutch fork. My axles did indeed have play in them, and the pilot bearing in the flywheel was seized, but unfortunately the noise is still there.

I took it into the shop again and they noticed that my diff’s input shaft bearing is wobbling...
https://www.instagram.com/p/B016KMKHr3x/

I’ll be buying a 2017 diff this weekend as I hear the install on that bearing is a regular PIA.

I’ll update this again next Tuesday when I get the new diff installed.

[norcalpb]

New diff is installed but the noise persists...

My latest theory is that it’s the oem overpipe hitting the crossmember or even my 19mm Perrin sway bar, but everything has proper clearance and nothing is touching.

My engine mounts could be going bad, and I do have a clunk at startup, but wouldn’t I hear the noise when revving the engine in neutral? Everything is smooth when I let the engine freely rev.

[norcalpb]

So I've ruled out the overpipe hitting the sway bar and/or overpipe.

A mechanic found some slop in my driveshaft. I had no idea there were 3 U joints and even a bearing lol. I will be replacing the driveshaft with a low mileage one from a 2015 FRS.

I figure that a startup clunk noise is consistent with slop in the driveshaft. The transmission isn't spinning the driveshaft on startup, but the force of startup would theoretically shake the driveshaft.

So to summarize: In order to fix this noise my 2013 BRZ has:

New exedy clutch, revised TOB, new flywheel, Verus clutch fork ~ $450
Axles from 2 different 2015 BRZ - $170
Diff from a 2017 BRZ - $550

To install:

Driveshaft from a 2015 FRS. - $100

$1200 (including the driveshaft) in labor expensed...

If the driveshaft doesn't work I am willing to replace the transmission with either an OEM 2015 for $500, or a 2017 transmission for $700. I'm not sure the beefed up 6th gear of the 17 tranny necessitates $200.

This car has been so good to me that I feel like it deserves this refresh.

The new driveshaft goes, along with torque solution driveshaft support bushings, will go in Monday so I will update the thread then.

[norcalpb]

Had a new to me driveshaft installed along with the Torque Solution bushing installed and noise is fairly reduced but overall still there. This leaves the transmission as the only remaining culprit. Maybe the mount is going bad...

The never ending car repair story will continue soon.

[norcalpb]

So as an update: I took the car into another top of the line Indy shop. They weren’t able to figure out the noise either lol.

I had a stripped bolt where the transmission mount carrier assembly mounts to the frame. I though re tapping the hole would fix the noise but it didn’t.

The mechanic had a theory that it was slack in the guide rods that the shift forks move on. My next step will be to change the tranny fluid and look for aluminum shavings in a coffee filter.

The transmission mount I have looks fine so I decided against replacing it with this STi mount I have on hand.

[norcalpb]

Ended up selling that transmission mount to a forum member, and used the funds for a tranny flush.

The shop used some kinda optic camera to look into the transmission and the fluid level was full, and upon draining it there were zero metal shavings.

Very wtf, I’ll post a new video of the noise soon but at this point I’m completely stumped.

It could be my Perrin front sway bar hitting something but my clunk has the same resonance as transmission whine.

To be continued...

[Ultramaroon]

I posted but deleted after I realized that you answered both of my questions in your OP.


It's so weird that it only happens when you're turning to the right. Can you get a passenger to get a good recording of you turning slowly? Does it go away if you ease off of the throttle mid turn?

[norcalpb]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

I posted but deleted after I realized that you answered both of my questions in your OP.


It's so weird that it only happens when you're turning to the right. Can you get a passenger to get a good recording of you turning slowly? Does it go away if you ease off of the throttle mid turn?

Yes it will go away mid corner if I let off the gas. I can even push the clutch in and turn right and it’s as silent as a brand new car lol. Whatever it is has something to do with the car being de-weighted in the front and a corresponding suspension part making a noise.

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

I have 2 stock axles with 53,000 on them. Pm If interested.
Have you checked all control arm bushings on rear suspension?

Thanks for the offer but I grabbed axles a while ago and it didn’t fix the noise. Rear suspension is in tip top shape. Rear control arms are Whiteline eccentric arms.