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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.


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Old 11-20-2017, 07:30 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by RallySTI View Post
As the colder weather is starting to stick around in norther Ohio, these synchro's are looking more and more temping.

The 2nd gear lock out and/or crunch with these transmissions when cold is terrible.

Are these synchro's a "drop in " fit, meaning direct OE no modification fitment ?
Correct, they just require a bit of work to swap them out. We're working on a DIY install manual.

100% replacement with OEM units, no modification needed.


Thanks,
Eric
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Old 03-28-2018, 04:27 PM   #30
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DIY manual is now up on our website (and linked HERE).

I may start a thread in the DIY section to keep all questions pertaining to the install in a single thread, not sure yet. Overall it isn't a difficult install, just very very tedious especially for someone who has never done it before.

Thanks,
Eric

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Old 03-28-2018, 04:51 PM   #31
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Well Done!!
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Old 03-28-2018, 04:55 PM   #32
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You might want to check section 1.1 Overview of the install guide You probably shouldn't be installing synchros on your hood.
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Old 03-29-2018, 04:02 PM   #33
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Great write up Eric !!
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Old 03-30-2018, 11:07 AM   #34
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Wow this is an incredible write-up, thank you for taking the time to make it! I assume the group buy is over?

Any change in fluid recommendation for these? Still okay to use Motul 300 75W-90?
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Old 05-14-2018, 02:26 AM   #35
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It would be nice to see some tests with different "common" oil brands/types tested, to find some other that may work closer to mentioned proprietary Torco oil blend, some 'almost as good' but more commonly available locally world-wide oil type instead of ordering something overseas. For example how something like Motul 300 75W-90 or Redline MTL GL4 70W80 mentioned in threads about cold 2nd gear issues, might work?

BTW, what change/gain is from CF used among materials? From what it looks like friction surfaces are still brass, so why complicate/probably more expensive construction?
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Old 05-14-2018, 08:25 PM   #36
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It would be nice to see some tests with different "common" oil brands/types tested, to find some other that may work closer to mentioned proprietary Torco oil blend, some 'almost as good' but more commonly available locally world-wide oil type instead of ordering something overseas. For example how something like Motul 300 75W-90 or Redline MTL GL4 70W80 mentioned in threads about cold 2nd gear issues, might work?

BTW, what change/gain is from CF used among materials? From what it looks like friction surfaces are still brass, so why complicate/probably more expensive construction?
The synchro is carbon fiber lined and still brass on the outside.
we exclusively use motul in this transmission with good results. but no formal testing against other oils.
our shop car now lives with our performance build and these synchros.
as we turn up the boost we will quickly find what breaks at what levels before we put in the aftermarket gearset for further testing.
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Old 05-14-2018, 08:54 PM   #37
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JacksTrans: but how and what CF lined there improves for work of synchros? I just want to hear a bit theoretical side to learn . To me synchros seem like mini clutches to even out rotational speeds by friction. So they probably wear down by time and also might be overheated by abuse/non rev matched high-rpm-delta shifts. I don't know if lined up part also is where friction happens, and how/what/if CF can improve (or not) if used there. Or is it to add some strength for not the most rigid material of brass? - if you can, enlighten us on how CF synchros work/why they can work better. I can understand that teeth shape and other improvements of yours may improve shifting, but not getting CF bit, which is very strong and light material for eg. car body parts .. but how it does if friction & high temps are involved? No problems with different material thermal expansion issues?
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Old 05-15-2018, 07:34 PM   #38
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carbon fiber is a great friction material (think race car brakes) it seems to do a better job at higher rpm of allowing the transmission to still shift.
I know this isn't a super scientific response and synchrotech would be better suited to give that side of it. But it also comes to surface area, brass/ bronze synchros have grooves in them where the top of the grove contacts the gear to slow it down or match the speeds. the carbon synchros will have a scale pattern or a woven pattern that allows more material to bite the gear and match the speed.
when uesd correctly this seems to hold up better than brass counter parts.
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