Suspension Review: Race Comp Yellow Springs

[Agent 86]

Originally Posted by cycleboy

One more thing, my install time was nearly 7 hours. 1.5 for the fronts, the rest for the rear. The problem was I needed to bench press the LCA enough to get the bolts through the holes. This was VERY hard to do by myself. I finally succeeded by putting the bolt through the hub first, then strut, then pushing like hell to get the sway bar attached. That then made the inboard end of the LCA close enough that with another big struggle I got that bolt in.

If I'd only had a second jack to lift the arm with, which I learned later was a good way to go.

I've been sore all over for most of this week!

7 hours I guess you are sore. glad you were able to get the job done.

Replacing brake pads and rotors is the closest I have ever come to doing an install on the scale of the RCE Yellow spring installation. It took me a bit over 4 hours to complete and for the most part, I would describe the task as straight forward. Follow what others have posted on this forum regarding the install process and take your time. Proper workspace, tools and lighting are mandatory, IMO. Don't forget SAFETY. Especially, when climbing under a car on jack stands.

The rears took me the longest, too. Fortunately, I had a second jack and was able to get the rear LCA back in place once I realized that the spring needed to be compressed a little to get the LCA bolt back in place.

Like you, I was confused as to the orientation of the springs, but I saw in the installation manual that the writing on the spring was right side up, so that's what I did.

Removing the black plastic strips between the coils never entered my mind. I think I read somewhere that they had a purpose.

I was temporarily stalled by the fact that the rear bump stops I received in my kit were different than the bump stops shown in the instructions. Frustrated, I called RCE during the installation, but the guy that answered the phone seemed perplexed and did not know the answer, and Miles was not available. In the end, the rear bump stop was the same on both sides, so I figured as long as RCE included the correct part, I couldn't go wrong.

I was able to complete the installation. Test drove my car and was really very impressed with the results.

For me, the feeling of satisfaction was off the charts. I think it also helped with my level of confidence when working on my car. Well worth the effort and I could justify buying a few new tools with the money I saved doing the job myself.
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[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Hyper4mance2k

@Racecomp Engineering, any input on this? Yellows, better on stock or Bilsteins? I already broke an axle, so I'm looking at higher ride height spring options.

Sorry missed that. The Yellows are good on both sets of shocks. Bilsteins will be better at absorbing large bumps and have slightly better response. Overall they are well within "range" in terms of damping with either shock, it's just a few details that give the Bilsteins a slight advantage.

Hope that helps!

- andy

[Hyper4mance2k]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Sorry missed that. The Yellows are good on both sets of shocks. Bilsteins will be better at absorbing large bumps and have slightly better response. Overall they are well within "range" in terms of damping with either shock, it's just a few details that give the Bilsteins a slight advantage.

Hope that helps!

- andy

It does. I think The Swifts might hit the trash bin. I really didn't think 25mm lower would have caused an axle issue, but here I am...

[2much]

Originally Posted by Hyper4mance2k

It does. I think The Swifts might hit the trash bin. I really didn't think 25mm lower would have caused an axle issue, but here I am...

I don't doubt that the lower the car is, the more stress on a certain point of the axle... but general consensus is that the car just has weak ass axles too. People bust them at stock ride height on stock power.

[cycleboy]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

I commend you on taking on this project. We will for certain look into the bump stop things you mentioned.

As for the black liner on the springs being removed, that wasn't good to do as thats there for a reason. Your choice to remove makes no sense at all.

As for the spring orientation not being "idiot proof" we dont intend for this install to be done by just anyone. This can be a DIY install but only if one has sufficient experience at doing so. The Racecomp writing on the springs IS the clear indication of the orientation of the springs as is just about 99% of ALL lowering springs on the market in the last 25 years.

I will say it here, as I have said many times in the past, NOT everyone is cut out for doing installation work on automobiles. YES, some things are but many things are not. We always suggest that a buyer take the car and allow a ASE certified Subaru tech install anything suspension or brake related.

WITH THAT SAID…….yes we will take a good look at our instructions and try to add many extra bits of detail to ensure that if someone is in this situation again they will have more indications as to how to install the springs.

I do still stand by our suggestion of having a certified Subaru tech install any suspension or brake part as its critical to safety.

Myles

Thanks for the response. I didn't feel like this was that difficult or over my head, except for the issue of getting the LCA's to bolt in and had I known about using a second jack, I would've borrowed my neighbors and probably saved 3 hours and lots of soreness. I'm confident I did things right and all is torqued correctly. I'll be rechecking torque after it gets some miles on it. I absolutely would not have done it on my own if I felt any doubts that I could do it correctly as I'm not keen on having parts fall off or break and kill me or someone else.

I didn't mean those suggestions above to sound like any real problem, they were just little head scratchers for me that seemed like they could've been clearer. I seem to recall on some brand of springs for this car that someone said one end of the car got them with logos facing up and one facing down, or maybe it was both upside down. Or maybe I'm just old and forgetful.

I didn't remove the black liner plastic, I started to because it wasn't in the photos on the instructions or online, but then realizing it was stuck on pretty well I stopped and left it there.

The bump stop thing was confusing, but I just assumed the design had changed and used them as is. The only other choice would've been to cut half of it off, which seemed really dumb.

OH, and lastly I commuted on them today and everything felt great! Plus, the car looks a ton better!

[cycleboy]

Originally Posted by Agent 86

7 hours I guess you are sore. glad you were able to get the job done.

Replacing brake pads and rotors is the closest I have ever come to doing an install on the scale of the RCE Yellow spring installation. It took me a bit over 4 hours to complete and for the most part, I would describe the task as straight forward. Follow what others have posted on this forum regarding the install process and take your time. Proper workspace, tools and lighting are mandatory, IMO. Don't forget SAFETY. Especially, when climbing under a car on jack stands.

The rears took me the longest, too. Fortunately, I had a second jack and was able to get the rear LCA back in place once I realized that the spring needed to be compressed a little to get the LCA bolt back in place.

Like you, I was confused as to the orientation of the springs, but I saw in the installation manual that the writing on the spring was right side up, so that's what I did.

Removing the black plastic strips between the coils never entered my mind. I think I read somewhere that they had a purpose.

I was temporarily stalled by the fact that the rear bump stops I received in my kit were different than the bump stops shown in the instructions. Frustrated, I called RCE during the installation, but the guy that answered the phone seemed perplexed and did not know the answer, and Miles was not available. In the end, the rear bump stop was the same on both sides, so I figured as long as RCE included the correct part, I couldn't go wrong.

I was able to complete the installation. Test drove my car and was really very impressed with the results.

For me, the feeling of satisfaction was off the charts. I think it also helped with my level of confidence when working on my car. Well worth the effort and I could justify buying a few new tools with the money I saved doing the job myself.
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Your experience is about the same as mine and your last paragraph echoes what I feel also. People I've talked to about why I was so sore were pretty amazed that I went DIY on this. The guys at the aligment place were a bit condescending and sarcastic at first that I'd installed a bunch of aftermarket parts and lowered it (I live in a redneck area and they work on a lot of lifted trucks). But then the guy who did the alignment was happy with the quality of the SPL arms and that I hadn't done anything overtly wrong or inept. And it's really not a bunch of aftermarket parts, but springs, LCA, & wheels/tires.

[Racecomp Engineering]

No worries. It is a good feeling doing it yourself. That soreness is a good hurt like going to the gym after a long time or a solid run after being lazy all winter!

For the DIYers, its super helpful to just have an extra set of hands helping you or another mind for a second opinion if you have an issue. Preferably someone experienced. Also we're usually available almost 24/7 so we can help on weekends and later in the afternoon.

But again its always recommended to have a professionally trained tech do the hard work for you.

- Andy

[drewbot]

Finally got these bad boys aligned with aftermarket LCAs in the rear and @Raceseng strut tops. Feels good man

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by baorz

Piggybacking off cycleboy's comment, I just received my RCE Yellow springs from @FT-86 SpeedFactory and my rear bump stops are conical on both sides as well.



Do they need to be trimmed or was a revision made to the kit? And just out of curiosity, what is the purpose of the black liner around the springs? Thanks!

Yes we revised the kit with a different bump stop. The black dust cover still get pulled down over the bump stop and installed. The black liner is to at maximum load prevent the springs from rubbing together.

Myles

[shiftspark]

Hi

Are there any UK suppliers for the springs or will I have to import them ?

Cheers

[HamburgerSushi]

Originally Posted by mechaghost

Started noticing clunking sounds when suspension is compressed over big bumps. Called up RCE and they said something to do with the Whiteline tops and should not be a problem, they will be posting about this shortly.

I'm also going to have the guys over at truline look it over on tuesday to make sure nothing is wrong

I know the RCE yellows are progressive springs. Could the sound be coming from spring bind resulting in flexion and de-flexion when the wheel is turned, resulting in a popping noise?

This would only be a reasonable thought if the RCE yellow springs have a "tender coil" portion which sits bound to itself under the weight of the car like with Eibach & H&R springs.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by HamburgerSushi

I know the RCE yellows are progressive springs. Could the sound be coming from spring bind resulting in flexion and de-flexion when the wheel is turned, resulting in a popping noise?

This would only be a reasonable thought if the RCE yellow springs have a "tender coil" portion which sits bound to itself under the weight of the car like with Eibach & H&R springs.

Our springs are silent when everything is installed correctly.

- Andrew

[RichardJ]

Hey guys I used to have RCE Yellows on stock dampers but replaced the shocks with B6's yesterday.

No clunking sound but the rear is like 1-2cm higher than it should be. It rides fine tho.

I got a local shop to put the yellows on my new dampers.
Not sure where else I could have done wrong.

Unless I switched the right and left shocks...

Any suggestions?

[bhmax]

Originally Posted by RichardJ

Hey guys I used to have RCE Yellows on stock dampers but replaced the shocks with B6's yesterday.

No clunking sound but the rear is like 1-2cm higher than it should be. It rides fine tho.

I got a local shop to put the yellows on my new dampers.
Not sure where else I could have done wrong.

Unless I switched the right and left shocks...

Any suggestions?

Left and right rear shocks are the same. I think it would be possible to slide the perch onto the Bilstein shock upside down, which would raise the rear end. I actually did that on a different car to purposely raise the rear end. But if installed correctly, maybe just the pressure of the Bilsteins was enough to raise it to your current height.