Full throttle Electric Supercharger Build Thread

[Reamer]

Originally Posted by stevo585

Yeah I would agree with that. All about timing on the street and getting the hit first. At the drag strip a whole different story lol.

Also, putting the throttle all the way down. That person in the big V8 probably never does it and doesn't stay in it long if they do (understandably, depending on the car and location), whereas our cars it is much easier to push them to the limits with more confidence. Cost is also a factor. There's less fear in having to repair a less expensive car.

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[Urmyson]

Any one interested in skipping the line? I'm thinking about moving on to something else. PM me.

[Namuna]

Alrighty my ESC has stopped working.

When all was well, the voltbox read v28.7 at peak. Now it wavers and at max will only get to 28.6. I'd think that shouldn't make a difference, but the blower doesn't come on at all now.

I've checked the actuator (snug and clicky) and the battery connections and those are all snug.

Can someone give me the steps on how to properly diagnose the issue from the power/voltage perspective? Like how and where to measure the power, and do I do it with the car turned on? Turned off but with the key turned to a certain position?

I've sent a message to Rob as well, any and all help much appreciated!

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by Namuna

Alrighty my ESC has stopped working.



When all was well, the voltbox read v28.7 at peak. Now it wavers and at max will only get to 28.6. I'd think that shouldn't make a difference, but the blower doesn't come on at all now.



I've checked the actuator (snug and clicky) and the battery connections and those are all snug.



Can someone give me the steps on how to properly diagnose the issue from the power/voltage perspective? Like how and where to measure the power, and do I do it with the car turned on? Turned off but with the key turned to a certain position?



I've sent a message to Rob as well, any and all help much appreciated!

What version of the kit do you have?




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[Namuna]

Originally Posted by Sojhinn

What version of the kit do you have?
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I've got the Rev2 kit.

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by Namuna

I've got the Rev2 kit.

Recheck all your connections. Make sure your wires didn't melt due to being too close to the header.

Are you using a procede?


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[Namuna]

Originally Posted by Sojhinn

Recheck all your connections. Make sure your wires didn't melt due to being too close to the header.

Are you using a procede?

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All the wires in the engine bay area are good. No fraying, no melts.

Something else that's strange, the voltbox won't turn on until I turn the car all the way on. My understanding is that you should be able to put the keys in, turn to the 'On' position and the voltbox will turn on AND you can actually activate the ESC by depressing the gas pedal all the way down.

If you keep messing with the fuse-in connector on it (plugs in here, indicated by pic), then it does turn on


Also, a friend was checking the voltage readings on the wires in the connectors in the engine bay area and just by coincidence I got into the car and saw the voltbox on (car ignition is off, but key was in and in the 'On' position). Just for the heck of it I stepped on the gas pedal and the ESC worked for just a brief moment but then voltbox turned off again and went back to doing the same as before.

[Sojhinn]

Sounds like a loose wire. So you don't have a fuse that goes from the voltmeter to the fusebox in the driver's side footwell?


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[Namuna]

Originally Posted by Sojhinn

Sounds like a loose wire. So you don't have a fuse that goes from the voltmeter to the fusebox in the driver's side footwell?

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Yes, I do. Here's more info...

So here's what just happened:

I went out to the car to get some pictures for clarification. First I double checked the engine bay to see if the wires are really okay and no melting from being near the pipes...All okay there, the wires are away from the pipes.

Next I get in the car and put the key in the ignition and ONLY turn the key to the 'On' position. To my surprise the voltbox was showing a reading (I typically have to turn the car all the way on with the engine running before the voltbox would turn on). Now I want to test the feel of the actuator under the gas pedal and so I press the gas pedal down and low and behold the blower activates at the 1st click, then I press all the way down on the pedal and it kicks in full blast at the 2nd position. Great, it's working! I try the pedal a couple more times and it's still working and the voltage is dropping and recharging, all as it should be.

So now let's see what happens when I start the engine and try it again while I'm actually driving....NOTHING. The voltbox gives me the proper reading, but pressing down on the pedal and hitting the 1st and 2nd actuation points isn't turning the blower on.

I pull over and turn the car off and then put the key to the 'On' position only again (engine turned off), the voltbox is off. If I actually flip the I/O switch to off, the reading blips 0.00 and then goes off. If I play with the plug-in wire (my mistake, the hardwire is the one that goes to the fuse), it now shows some other reading in the v11.2 range.

Here's what my voltbox looks like.

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by Namuna

Yes, I do. Here's more info...



So here's what just happened:



I went out to the car to get some pictures for clarification. First I double checked the engine bay to see if the wires are really okay and no melting from being near the pipes...All okay there, the wires are away from the pipes.



Next I get in the car and put the key in the ignition and ONLY turn the key to the 'On' position. To my surprise the voltbox was showing a reading (I typically have to turn the car all the way on with the engine running before the voltbox would turn on). Now I want to test the feel of the actuator under the gas pedal and so I press the gas pedal down and low and behold the blower activates at the 1st click, then I press all the way down on the pedal and it kicks in full blast at the 2nd position. Great, it's working! I try the pedal a couple more times and it's still working and the voltage is dropping and recharging, all as it should be.



So now let's see what happens when I start the engine and try it again while I'm actually driving....NOTHING. The voltbox gives me the proper reading, but pressing down on the pedal and hitting the 1st and 2nd actuation points isn't turning the blower on.



I pull over and turn the car off and then put the key to the 'On' position only again (engine turned off), the voltbox is off. If I actually flip the I/O switch to off, the reading blips 0.00 and then goes off. If I play with the plug-in wire (my mistake, the hardwire is the one that goes to the fuse), it now shows some other reading in the v11.2 range.



Here's what my voltbox looks like.

Double check your connection in the fusebox. And make sure it's in the right spot.



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[Gums]

Originally Posted by Namuna

Yes, I do. Here's more info...
So here's what just happened:
Here's what my voltbox looks like.

One more thing to check, I had an issue with the plug on the voltage display.

Rob sent a new voltage display which fixed the issue. Wasn't until I dismantled the old display (removed the female section of the plug) that I noticed that the solder on one of the wires wasn't soldered properly. It looked like it was!

Allowed the voltmeter to work sometimes and not others.

[Benz]

Does anyone know what is going on for International RHD orders? I have been on the list for over 2.5-3 years now...
Fenton?

[silent runner]

Originally Posted by Ingen

Can you post an updated version of 'the list', so we know where we stand?

Thanks

I just have one thing to say about the "list". It's been a bit of a tough ride for a whole lot of folks out in the general economy where Rob runs this thing and with our energy industry roughing out some tough times, it good to see that there is still some forward motion on any list.

My little update is to offer some information on the state of batteries after about of 2years of use on the original V1, all or nothing operation version. Now I inherited these power sonic 12180 NB batteries from one of Fentons earlier projects, on top of my operation but....

These batteries, after being pulled from my Camry and readied for my Solara 5sps. car, would only maintain about 10.3 volts after being charged. In the last few weeks, they would still pull up to 28 volts with the car pushing them, but they would never hit with decent current.

I would strongly suggest that about 2 years of light daily use is probably the best you should expect for proper performance from these batteries. Maybe a fair bit less, like 1 year for you guys using later system.

I'm Finally putting my proto system into my Solara, with new batteries. Starting out with 200hp rating, and 214ft/lb of torque, In 5 spd manual car, weighing about 3100lbs. When newly installed, the Phantom SC knocked an easy 2.0seconds off of the 0-60mph time of my 3VZ-FE Camry, from 8.5 to 6.5.

This car starts documented 0-60 times in the 7.0 second range, so this should be pretty fun to play with. Personally, I enjoy that 20-60 mph range, where you can enjoy a big shove in the backside, show that your car is no slouch, then carry on and do your good community service at the shelter.

[godzuki]

hi all,

anyone run into an issue where the compressor switches on, but only for a moment before spinning down again? once the foot pedal switch reaches the first click it does this, the second click does nothing and keeping the switch engaged doesn't keep the compressor on.

when i turn on the system it beeps once, then there is a little delay, then 5 slow beeps.

all connections appear fine, tried reseating the meter and foot pedal connectors as well.