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Old 12-13-2017, 02:21 PM   #15
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Thanks, Steve. I ordered an OCV and see if that’ll solve the issue. Do you know which one P0018 is referring to? I think it’s the driver side but haven’t be able to find a definitive answer on top or bottom valve...
I believe P0018 is "intake", which is *EDIT* the top side of the engine (top 2 sensors). Bank 2 would be driver's side. (thank you for the correction).

Did you swap the sensors before ordering a new one? It's an easy way to tell if the sensor itself is borked, or if it's something deeper. If you switch the affected sensor with one of the other ones, theoretically the code should change to reflect the new position of the bad sensor, assuming the sensor is bad.

If the sensor is fine, the code will stay the same, which would mean you are looking at a deeper problem. That is exactly what happened to me.

I would have said to do this before you ordered a new valve, but meh. At least it's not a super expensive part.

Good luck!
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Old 12-13-2017, 03:46 PM   #16
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The manual will answer this:
https://demos.starbase7.net/t3Portal..._rm_index.html

P0018 = 2A

If you are in front of the car looking into the engine bay from the front of the car, Bank 2 will be on your right side. "A" would be the intake side which is the top of the engine. So the top right sensor is the one for P0018.

Last edited by ermax; 12-13-2017 at 03:57 PM.
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Old 12-13-2017, 03:58 PM   #17
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Thank you both!!!
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Old 12-13-2017, 04:13 PM   #18
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I believe P0018 is "intake" side, which is driver's side. As for top or bottom...I think sensor A is the top one, but not 100% sure on that.
I think you simply mistyped but to avoid confusion. It's a boxer engine so the intake cam isn't on driver side or any side for that matter... it's on the top.

A = Intake (top side)
B = Exhaust (bottom side)

Bank 1 is the left side or passenger side on the LHD models. Bank 2 is on the right side.

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Old 12-13-2017, 10:21 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SLVRSRFR View Post
I believe P0018 is "intake" side, which is driver's side. As for top or bottom...I think sensor A is the top one, but not 100% sure on that.

Did you swap the sensors before ordering a new one? It's an easy way to tell if the sensor itself is borked, or if it's something deeper. If you switch the affected sensor with one of the other ones, theoretically the code should change to reflect the new position of the bad sensor, assuming the sensor is bad.

If the sensor is fine, the code will stay the same, which would mean you are looking at a deeper problem. That is exactly what happened to me.

I would have said to do this before you ordered a new valve, but meh. At least it's not a super expensive part.

Good luck!
So I swapped the OCVs on the driver side (top bottom swap) to see if the code changes but it still came back as p0018... Was your covered under warranty? If not dare I ask how much it cost to fix it?
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Old 12-13-2017, 10:28 PM   #20
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Isn’t P0018 the VVT sensor? Wouldn’t you swap the VVT sensor to troubleshoot that rather than the OCV?
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Old 12-13-2017, 11:02 PM   #21
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Isn’t P0018 the VVT sensor? Wouldn’t you swap the VVT sensor to troubleshoot that rather than the OCV?
It's a host of potential issues, I'm just hoping it's not the cam sprockets. I'll look into swapping the VVT sensor as well (mostly read about swapping OCV). Thanks!
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Old 12-13-2017, 11:27 PM   #22
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not 100% either sorry maybe swap both
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Old 12-14-2017, 12:20 AM   #23
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So I just swapped the position sensors and drove around and shut off the engine 5 times. So far the CEL has not shown up. Vs earlier today I swapped the OCVs and the error light came back after one restart. We’ll see what happens tomorrow but fingers crossed...
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Old 12-14-2017, 06:15 AM   #24
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So I just swapped the position sensors and drove around and shut off the engine 5 times. So far the CEL has not shown up. Vs earlier today I swapped the OCVs and the error light came back after one restart. We’ll see what happens tomorrow but fingers crossed...


Strange that it didn’t come back. Maybe it was just contamination on the sensor that cleared up when you moved them around.

I will cross my fingers for you too. I bet a new sprocket would be pricy and labor wouldn’t be fun either.
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Old 12-14-2017, 10:10 AM   #25
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Strange that it didn’t come back. Maybe it was just contamination on the sensor that cleared up when you moved them around.

I will cross my fingers for you too. I bet a new sprocket would be pricy and labor wouldn’t be fun either.
My fingers are across too! Everything was fine on the drive this morning, and the car felt better (e.g., power came back, though i didn't push it too much) so I'm hoping that's the end of it.

Thanks again for the help, guys!
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Old 12-14-2017, 10:59 AM   #26
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Hope it is the sensor, it was in my case, a very easy and painless fix. *fingers crossed for you*
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Old 12-15-2017, 09:16 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by ermax View Post
I think you simply mistyped but to avoid confusion. It's a boxer engine so the intake cam isn't on driver side or any side for that matter... it's on the top.

A = Intake (top side)
B = Exhaust (bottom side)

Bank 1 is the left side or passenger side on the LHD models. Bank 2 is on the right side.

Thank you. I was distracted at work when I typed that and apparently wasn't thinking straight.

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Old 12-15-2017, 09:21 AM   #28
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So I swapped the OCVs on the driver side (top bottom swap) to see if the code changes but it still came back as p0018... Was your covered under warranty? If not dare I ask how much it cost to fix it?
Mine was partially covered under warranty, but only because I contacted Subaru Canada head office and made a stink about it.

I was only 10k (km) out of my warranty when it happened, so I e-mailed Subaru Canada to see if they would help. They ended up investigating, and less than 2 weeks later, offered to cover the cost of all parts involved in the repair, and I only had to pay labour, which meant I ended up only $650 out of pocket instead of $2500+ out of pocket.

If you are still within your warranty, there's a good chance it will be 100% covered. If you are outside of your warranty, it may be worth at least contacting the manufacturer to see if they will help. I would have ended up $2500+ out of pocket if I hadn't e-mailed them to see if they'd help.

Hopefully your issue is gone for good, but if not, definitely consider it.
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