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Mechanical Maintenance (Oil, Fluids, Break-In, Servicing) Everything related to the mechanical maintenance of the FR-S and BRZ


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Old 05-11-2015, 02:10 AM   #15
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No. Your logic is flawed because you missed the main point of the magnetic plug. The gear teeth lap against each other during break-in. The magnet pulls the tiny steel particles out of suspension - permanently. There are no other termites in the house

The only reason to change the gear oil would be out of concern for viscosity breakdown, not pest control.
The problem is that just because there is a magnet on the drain plug doesn't mean it's going to extract 100% particles from a flowing mixture of oil.
Also as the magnet successfully pulls out particles it loses its efficacy ... meaning the more gunk it has the less it is able to extract .. say 80% is only extract from that point.
Essentially the more gunk there is means there are still more in the differentials flowing around because it can't pull out as effectively when its completely clean.
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Old 05-11-2015, 12:30 PM   #16
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The problem is that just because there is a magnet on the drain plug doesn't mean it's going to extract 100% particles from a flowing mixture of oil.
Also as the magnet successfully pulls out particles it loses its efficacy ... meaning the more gunk it has the less it is able to extract .. say 80% is only extract from that point.
Essentially the more gunk there is means there are still more in the differentials flowing around because it can't pull out as effectively when its completely clean.
So... why are you changing your oil so early? Is it based on a visual inspection, or have you done any UOA analysis?

-alex
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Old 05-11-2015, 12:30 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Bonburner View Post
The problem is that just because there is a magnet on the drain plug doesn't mean it's going to extract 100% particles from a flowing mixture of oil.
Also as the magnet successfully pulls out particles it loses its efficacy ... meaning the more gunk it has the less it is able to extract .. say 80% is only extract from that point.
Essentially the more gunk there is means there are still more in the differentials flowing around because it can't pull out as effectively when its completely clean.
You're spreading bad info. 80% is a bullshit number. Show me your references. There's a reason transmission and differential fluid change isn't even specified in the service schedule. Mag plugs have been used/studied for a century now. They're simple and they work.
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Old 05-11-2015, 01:01 PM   #18
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You're spreading bad info. 80% is a bullshit number. Show me your references. There's a reason transmission and differential fluid change isn't even specified in the service schedule. Mag plugs have been used/studied for a century now. They're simple and they work.
Yeah it's a made up number hence the " .. Say 80%"

Just because the manual doesn't say to replace the oils doesn't mean you should never replace them .. There are lots of manuals that say never to replace brake fluids, transmissions, etc.
I'd rather have a differential with clean flowing oil than one filled with gunk causing power loss

If you ever played with a magnet you'll know that as more things clump onto it the weak its attraction to other stuff
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Old 05-11-2015, 01:05 PM   #19
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So... why are you changing your oil so early? Is it based on a visual inspection, or have you done any UOA analysis?

-alex
Visual inspection - large volume of semisolid residue extracted on magnet, darker than norm oil removed (no I didn't see the shade of the oil at lower mileage), and how the car feels after replacing the oils

Search for the results of the differential plugs from those that have replaced theirs, it doesn't look good
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Old 05-11-2015, 01:35 PM   #20
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Visual inspection - large volume of semisolid residue extracted on magnet, darker than norm oil removed (no I didn't see the shade of the oil at lower mileage), and how the car feels after replacing the oils

Search for the results of the differential plugs from those that have replaced theirs, it doesn't look good
So basically you're speculating.

Just FYI my stock diff plug had "excessive" amounts of shavings when I drained it at 10k.
The same amount was on my drain plug at 20k.
The same amount was on my drain plug of my OS Giken diff at 5k.

I only change it more often because of excessive track use. If I was driving it normally I'd probably change it at a 30k or more interval.

I'm not going to freak out over this. I also sent in my oil for UOA analysis, will be basing my opinion on fact. You should too.

-alex
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Old 05-11-2015, 01:47 PM   #21
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Just FYI my stock diff plug had "excessive" amounts of shavings when I drained it at 10k.
The same amount was on my drain plug at 20k.
The same amount was on my drain plug of my OS Giken diff at 5k.

I only change it more often because of excessive track use. If I was driving it normally I'd probably change it at a 30k or more interval.

-alex
That's exactly why I want to frequently replace the oils
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Old 05-11-2015, 01:49 PM   #22
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That's exactly why I want to frequently replace the oils
But "excessive gunk" on the drain plug does not mean it is a bad thing... that's my point that you are missing.

-alex
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Old 05-11-2015, 01:51 PM   #23
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But "excessive gunk" on the drain plug does not mean it is a bad thing... that's my point that you are missing.

-alex
I'm just not comfortable accepting sludge as a good thing in the differentials so I want to extract as much as possible :/
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Old 05-11-2015, 02:10 PM   #24
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DD only? Change it every 30k or so
Occasional track day? Maybe annually.
Track junky? Depends on heat/abuse/power etc.

Washers:

Washer and "gasket" are used interchangeably. A copper crush washer, by definition is a "gasket". On anything that's low pressure (transmission/engine/diff) I'll flip a copper washer and reuse. I will only flip and reuse an aluminum washer if I have nothing else because they actually do a lot of compressing and once compressed, if reused can be much more prone to leaking. So for me aluminum is a once use, copper is a reuse.

Exception: Fuel. I never ever reuse a washer in a fuel system. (Fuel filter, fuel rail, whatever) A low viscosity fluid that's combustible and under a lot a pressure means the that seal is very important.
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Old 05-11-2015, 02:37 PM   #25
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I'm just not comfortable accepting sludge as a good thing in the differentials so I want to extract as much as possible :/
Which is fine, just don't use buildup on the drain plug as a measure of how much contaminants are left in the oil. That's just absurd.

-alex
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Old 05-11-2015, 02:38 PM   #26
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Which is fine, just don't use buildup on the drain plug as a measure of how much contaminants are left in the oil. That's just absurd.

-alex
how would that be illogical?
if there's still sludge on the magnet each flush then there's still more sludge in there
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Old 05-11-2015, 04:13 PM   #27
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how would that be illogical?
if there's still sludge on the magnet each flush then there's still more sludge in there
It's a supreme waste of money.

By your logic, it would be acceptable to change your oil every 1000 miles since it will just get dirty...

Yes it can work, but it's just a waste of money and resources.

-alex
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Old 05-11-2015, 05:16 PM   #28
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how would that be illogical?
if there's still sludge on the magnet each flush then there's still more sludge in there
The sludge on the magnet is there because the magnet works as designed. You are incorrect in assuming there is "still more sludge in there."

It's your car. You aren't hurting anything. Have at it.
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