Nameless Performance Overpipe/Downpipe Combo

[FR-S Matt]

Originally Posted by umpadupa

Just to let you guys know.

If anyone has a revworks header and wants this pipe its tight and over larger speed bumps and dumpy road, it does hit the sub frame

You probably need to adjust your setup or let Nameless know if that is the case. My 3" DP has plenty of room.

[umpadupa]

I did... I think it's the headers. I loosened all the bolts and tried to re-adjust it. Then brought it to a local shop. Same results. Thanks though!

[neurokinetik]

Installed mine today. Was waiting to do some baseline pulls so that I could compare and see if this makes any measurable difference. The second pulls will be with the exact same setup, with only the Nameless OP/FP (catted & resonated) added. I already have a Borla catback and a Perrin drop-in air filter, so the baseline pulls will reflect that.

Installation was pretty painless. Took me about 2 hours all-in, which is pretty good for me! Usually I take other people's time estimates and multiply them by four! Raising one side of the engine was no big deal and made the install easy. NOTE: Remove both of the nuts from the overpipe to the header BEFORE you raise the engine, as they become harder to reach afterwards (ask me how I know). No issue with clearance, even with an upgraded front sway bar. I've pretty much got 1/2" anywhere I look where it could be close.

Initial driving impressions are positive, I did not notice much of a difference in volume, but the tone of the exhaust changed subtly (for the better), a little deeper perhaps. Weight loss from this setup is pretty good, as a percentage. The stock front pipe alone weighs more than the Nameless setup (12.2lbs vs. 11.4lbs), and then you have the overpipe adding 4.5 more lbs to that, for a total of 16.7lbs, so this is an easy 5lbs+ of weight loss.

...and then there's how this piece looks compared to the stock unit:

[neurokinetik]

Here is the comparison chart I put together. This is the better of the two baseline runs vs. both runs with the Nameless pipe. These were street pulls in 2nd gear using MaxQData logging (10Hz sample rate) and using its built-in "Road Power" calculation. Note that the absolute numbers may be way off due to improper scaling (I left the rolling resistance and aerodynamic drag coefficients at their defaults - weight was entered as 2900lbs including the driver, I did these pulls with a full tank of gas and all of the trunk junk). These were done on the same flat, straight stretch of road, and weather conditions were as close as possible (temperatures between 65F and 68F, high humidity). This is for a comparison only so you can see clear gains in performance from just this one upgrade.

Stock header, Borla Catback exhaust, Perrin drop-in air filter and the same base tune were used for all the pulls, with everything else being stock. The only difference is the Nameless Front/Over Pipe (Catted & Resonated).

[umpadupa]

[ame]http://youtu.be/-1BCDEBjtsk[/ame]

[ScionFR-S]

Originally Posted by Jason@Nameless

Hi all,

We have had a good amount of time to dyno test a number of our products and have gone through a few design revisions on our downpipe and overpipe. In this time we have come to the conclusion that the overpipe design from the factory is set up entirely to clear some steering linkage on the RHD Japanese model cars. The requirements to build a factory fit overpipe are a welded system or compound tooling for a mandrel bender.

So in conclusion we have combined the overpipe and downpipe into one unit to save weight, improve flow, increase manufacturability and eliminate one of the factory flange connections. In doing this, we also are able to use a long taper high flow catalytic converter rather than using a short taper, 45 degree inlet, straight outlet like we had on our original prototype. All of these things are good for us and good for our customers. This means you can buy an overpipe and a downpipe for $499. Because we had sold a number of downpipes prior to this design revision (albeit hadn't shipped any), we extended this design to all of the customers who purchased the downpipe at the original $399 price point at no charge. While we are always eager to take our designs to market as soon as they are proven, we do our best to take care of our early adopting customers.

The factory overpipe is almost question mark shaped - and has a number of mechanically crushed areas for clearance around objects that do not even exist in your engine compartment. Our initial design was a simple replica of this system in 2.5" mandrel bent T304 Stainless 16ga tubing. Here's what we initially came up with alongside the factory unit:



After building one of these and thinking 'this is going to be a bitch to manufacture,' we tossed all of the prototypes aside and built a more appropriate fitted system on the car. Here's a photo of how elegant the solution turned out right alongside the factory overpipe and downpipe including a unit that we are testing with a band pass helmholtz resonator for testing with our header):



To give you an idea of how dense the factory system is, we can shine a tactical SureFire flashlight through a factory style catalyst and barely see any light on the other side....do the same on a high flow and it'll blind you momentarily. These catalytic converters will support 400whp all day long, and on our STi/WRX downpipes we see no gains when eliminating the high flow catalyst and going catless.

In terms of longevity and functionality, we have sold over 200 of these catalytic converters in a variety of extremely aggressive factory fit configurations - from downpipes on the insanely hot EGT Jaguar XKR, XJR & S-TypeR supercharged V8's to a wide variety of turbocharged applications. In two and a half years we have not seen a single failure in the field. The units are manufactured in the USA and come with a one year warranty. We have also run these catalysts in a handful of Rotary applications, and if you know rotary engines, you know they're about as destructive as you can get on thermally sensitive parts as their exhaust gas temperatures can reach 1000C (1800F). I have seen perforated tubing on rotary exhaust mufflers buckle and fail before these catalytic converters fail.

I'll be posting some dyno data soon, we have a variety of dyno pulls in various configurations but have yet to test this new design alone on a car without any other modifications. Our goal is to do so very soon and share the data, but up to this point we _know_ that we are making excellent power on the first revision downpipe without the overpipe included.

Here's the first runs with the original downpipe (no overpipe) + the axleback:





Should have some more feedback on the inclusion of that helmholtz resonator and its effect on the slight 125hz @ 3800rpm drone caused by the higher flowing header assembly. So far it worked great (read: drone absolutely gone) when cold, but I think I had some of my speed of sound calculations off a bit based on exhaust gas temperatures/compressability of the exhaust gas, and so as soon as the system heated up the drone came back lightly (still better than without the helmholtz). We're going to switch the choke pipe to a larger diameter/longer circuit length and re-test shortly. The concept behind that resonator is pretty simple. When you blow into the top of a coke bottle and make a tone what you're really doing is compressing the air inside the bottle and creating a resonant wave that generates a tone. Fill the bottle half full with water, the tone goes higher in frequency. We use a three axis frequency analyzer with full datalogging and recording capabilities to capture any drone artifacts in the cabin and then we calculate the size of the resonator required to band-pass filter that frequency, add it to the exhaust, re-test and adjust as necessary.

Here's an example of one of our Genesis 3.8R exhausts we used to test twin differential sized helmholtz resonators. It sounds like half a Ferrari at wide open throttle (unfortunately the free rev doesn't do it justice) and has zero mufflers in the system...but no cabin drone under load and at cruise:

And here is a video of the BRZ with our AxleBack and high flow downpipe (this video does not have the overpipe portion included):

More to come. We're not remotely done developing new parts for these cars. Check out our header development thread over here.

Jason

hey jason hows everything man. just wondering if the overpipe/frontpipe combo will work with my FRS that has no aftermarket headers or anything… I have a GReddy Axle back exhaust thats all. i was going to go with motiv front pipe and over pipe but that would run me $600+ so I was just wondering what gains you have seen with this setup and also would the noise be unbearable ? i know it has a HFC which is amazing and it will def let me pass emissions when the time comes around. i drive an AT so i just want as much info as i can get i say your forum thread on it and it looks awesome. how is the fitment of this piece also lol
sorry for all the questions i just want to get all my info before dropping all this money

[hellyvin]

Sorry to bring up old thread up but does replacing the over/down pipe affect emissions? I'm in California so just wondering what happens later in the vehicles life if the cat fails or something from this unit. Have to get someone to weld in a new one? Does any of the O2 sensors go into this thing? Doesn't look like it from the pictures but just double checking.

Thank you!

[peebking]

After I install my dp, it make my exhaust go higher and the exhaust hit the sub frame, and the pipe is rattling when I go about 2.5k rpm, hopefully I can bring it to nameless to take a look

[Carlitoz3]

Originally Posted by neurokinetik

Installed mine today. Was waiting to do some baseline pulls so that I could compare and see if this makes any measurable difference. The second pulls will be with the exact same setup, with only the Nameless OP/FP (catted & resonated) added. I already have a Borla catback and a Perrin drop-in air filter, so the baseline pulls will reflect that.

Installation was pretty painless. Took me about 2 hours all-in, which is pretty good for me! Usually I take other people's time estimates and multiply them by four! Raising one side of the engine was no big deal and made the install easy. NOTE: Remove both of the nuts from the overpipe to the header BEFORE you raise the engine, as they become harder to reach afterwards (ask me how I know). No issue with clearance, even with an upgraded front sway bar. I've pretty much got 1/2" anywhere I look where it could be close.

Initial driving impressions are positive, I did not notice much of a difference in volume, but the tone of the exhaust changed subtly (for the better), a little deeper perhaps. Weight loss from this setup is pretty good, as a percentage. The stock front pipe alone weighs more than the Nameless setup (12.2lbs vs. 11.4lbs), and then you have the overpipe adding 4.5 more lbs to that, for a total of 16.7lbs, so this is an easy 5lbs+ of weight loss.

...and then there's how this piece looks compared to the stock unit:

Do I have to raise the engine to do this?
If so, a link on how to would be very much appreciated
Doing mine in 2 weeks!

[FR-S Matt]

Yes, you need to jack up the passenger side mount a few inches to properly get the pipe through then let it back down and tighten.

To the person with the rattle, you should probably loosen it up some and adjust then re-tighten again. It should not be rattling.

[RehabJeff86]

Just installed the OP/FP myself, noticed exhaust leak at the FP and Mid pipe junction with the Tomei 60S, awaiting Nameless to get back to me with suggestion to fix leak, any suggestion?

[Ranatsu]

Originally Posted by RehabJeff86

Just installed the OP/FP myself, noticed exhaust leak at the FP and Mid pipe junction with the Tomei 60S, awaiting Nameless to get back to me with suggestion to fix leak, any suggestion?

Are you using the doughnut gasket?

[RehabJeff86]

Originally Posted by Ranatsu

Are you using the doughnut gasket?

no doughnut gasket as it wasn't there in OEM set up

[Ranatsu]

Are you sure? I'm pretty sure I can see it in this picture. The piece after the flange that juts out. The doughnut gasket goes on that.