Key fob lock/unlock doesn't always work (not dead batteries)

[turtlefeeder]

Damn that sucks sorry could not help, how are you going to reprogram it?

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

[wparsons]

Techstream if it comes to that.

[JP86]

Have you tried pulling apart the remote assembly completely and having a look? Could be a bit of moisture or something, seen it a few times at work.

[Kayysonie]

Originally Posted by wparsons

Bump this back up... anyone else have any suggestions?

It seems to be getting worse, I haven't had it work right away once in a couple weeks now. I'm going to try re-programming the fobs to the car, but I don't have much hope for that since they do work eventually.

Hello Guys,

I just saw this thread cause I am having issue with my door lock too. but from the description, might be different?

First of all, I have removed dead keyfob battery, or car battery issue as the variables. I have a "hunch" on what is going as I have some background with door locks.

My issue is that the door would not lock/unlock (drivers side) at times... There are days when i walk up to my car and its already unlock but when I start it, the alarm goes off. Meaning the car "locked" but the actual physical lock didnt dis-engage.

Other days, I walk up to my car and unlocking it using the touch sensitive and the car would try to unlock (4 consecutive beeps) but never unlocks...

So here is a first video that show's its a hit or miss for me.. sometimes the car would lock or unlock.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9r9InMCBjU4"]Door Lock Actuator Issue - YouTube[/ame]

Teh second video shows the actuator cannot lock the door at all. Keeping the door open does not matter once the car is off.

The car will only not let you lock the car if the car is running and the door is open.

Also, you can hear that the lock is engaging and disengaging but that is the passenger side door that you hear.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1EyNdYWVD4"]Door Lock Issue 2 - YouTube[/ame]

I know it is the door actuator because I work for a company that sell those motors. The DC motor in the lock meganism have issue. Either the teeth of the gears are wornout, or the actual motor itself. I tried removing it over the weekend but it was hard to access the mechanism. it will require removing the door handle outside (maybe).

I found a replacement part available online. and I might buy it to replace mine. The only issue is there is no DYI anywhere that shows how to replace it.

I might buy the part and have a dealership install it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-2014-SU...3D131374528187


I hope this make sense or its the same issue people are seeing.

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by JP86

Have you tried pulling apart the remote assembly completely and having a look? Could be a bit of moisture or something, seen it a few times at work.

I'll try that, I'm doubtful though since the spare key has never been outside and it has the same issue.

I'm going to take both apart, clean all the battery contacts, etc just to be sure.

[JP86]

Originally Posted by wparsons

I'll try that, I'm doubtful though since the spare key has never been outside and it has the same issue.

I'm going to take both apart, clean all the battery contacts, etc just to be sure.

Be sure to use Isopropyl alcohol as it evaporates, rubbing alcohol works too.
If that doesn't do the trick I'd imagine it might be an earthing issue, as (correct me if I'm wrong here, I'm still learning about the security system) the remote receiver uses the body as an antenna.
But I should also add that the red led on the remotes should be turning on when a button is pressed and should be a strong red light too, I've seen too many times of a dim light and my customers experience the exact issue you're having and this is generally resolved with a good new battery or clean. I normally supply maxell batteries incase you're curious.

Ah modern technology
Hopefully that helps!!

[zc06_kisstherain]

reset ECU by unplug battery and re-connect after 20-30 sec

[jasonojordan]

if you figure out whats going on let me know so I can give it a try as a cure for my range issues.

[wparsons]

Looks like this was caused by poor contact with the battery inside the remote. I noticed that when the remote was apart that it wouldn't work if I held by the sides, but worked if I squeezed it while pushing the buttons. I bent up the contacts under the battery and it seems to be perfect since. Haven't tried the second remote yet, but I imagine it's the same issue.

Explains why when it worked the range was fine, but when it wasn't working it wouldn't work even sitting in the car. Not sure how it happened, or why both remotes went bad at about the same time, but I don't really care now that it's working

[Rican_D]

Originally Posted by wparsons

Looks like this was caused by poor contact with the battery inside the remote. I noticed that when the remote was apart that it wouldn't work if I held by the sides, but worked if I squeezed it while pushing the buttons. I bent up the contacts under the battery and it seems to be perfect since. Haven't tried the second remote yet, but I imagine it's the same issue.

Explains why when it worked the range was fine, but when it wasn't working it wouldn't work even sitting in the car. Not sure how it happened, or why both remotes went bad at about the same time, but I don't really care now that it's working

Thanks for the info

[h3boys]

Exactly the same issue happen to my car last week after week replaced my Fog Light with additional switch inside. Not sure if it cause by adding AC Wire Switch or Key's battery.

[DoomsdayJesus]

I know what was likely causing the same problem with my keyless ignition/keyfob.

If you have LED dome lights or aftermarket LEDs that stay on after the doors close, they can bleed a LOT of RF interference across the spectrum. Anyone with aftermarket blinkers or brake lights (the plug in/bulb-replacement variety) listening to an AM radio, especially at night, can attest to that fact.

I had the exact same problem until I realized that I was immediately able to lock the car from a distance as soon as the dome light faded. If I locked the car by touch and the light went out immediately, it worked every time. But basically the LEDs could be jamming your keyfob.

The solution could be to use some RF shielding, something as simple as the anti-static bags electronics come in, as long as they're transparent enough for lights or even with a small hole cut in them. Or you could figure out where to apply some better grounding either to the receiver or the LED bulb ground. I'll try to post some pictures later if I remember.

[DoomsdayJesus]

Also, stupid human trick, if you hold your wireless key fob under your chin/between your jawbones with your head pointed at your car you can extend the range and focus the signal a bit.

[STIMAN]

I know this thread is old, but I wanted to share that I have/had the exact same issue, both keys (even the one that has sat at home and was never used).

I added a folded piece of paper behind the battery to push it harder against the contacts and that seems to have solved the issue.

Thank you wparsons for posting this thread as it helped solve the problem for me.