When you start maintaining your car yourself...

[Wil]

Originally Posted by cjd

Are you able to get the Ace stuff? Ace 350 is a pretty penny, but is the best through the range. Not quite as strong up top as the 250 or 150, but more through the power band you're in most of the time (unless you're just on track...)

I've been reading things on headers ever since I got the car in 2014 but never quite pulled the trigger on one apart from that used gutted stock header.
My requirements were and are still:
- No rasp. I absolutely hate raspy exhaust.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvtVyhv3qsg[/ame] even a tiny bit of rasp, like in this video
Could a wrap avoid raspiness? Well, I'm not a big fan of wrap either... apparently they deteriorate the exhaust quicker.
- EL preferably
- Best correction of the torque dip (yes EL is not the best for this...)
- Least heat in the engine bay
- under 1000$
- Something that makes the best out of the OTS tunes


I really thing the Ace Header is too much... 1600$ + 1000$ tune + customs taxes 500$... I'd rather go FI at this point.
In French we say, we can't have the butter and the money for the butter (don't worry, I am Belgian, not French).

I'm not in a hurry so I might want to get a used one.

The problem is, with the GT86 is that, you don't want to throw too much money in it since, for 10k more, you can easily a mid-engined, 6-cylinder beauty from Stuttgart, if you see what I mean...

Regarding the maintenance, I'll replace the serpentine belt this weekend. I'll keep you updated, for those interested.
Have a nice day

[Wil]

I feel like my overall car's behaviour has changed with the new oil...
Is it me or could it be possible that the differential oil has an impact on how the rear of the car behaves?

I feel that, overall, my car is now kind of 'blurry', I feel now that there is a noticeable transition when the transmission is under load or not. Especially with the diff. The rear of the car becomes kind of 'wavy' if that makes sense for you. Like if the dampening was softer when I release the throttle.

Could that be possible?
Overall I feel like the car is heavier. I will see if I get the same feeling with an empty tank. Might just be the fuel moving that creates this effect.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by Wil

I feel like my overall car's behaviour has changed with the new oil...
Is it me or could it be possible that the differential oil has an impact on how the rear of the car behaves?

I feel that, overall, my car is now kind of 'blurry', I feel now that there is a noticeable transition when the transmission is under load or not. Especially with the diff. The rear of the car becomes kind of 'wavy' if that makes sense for you. Like if the dampening was softer when I release the throttle.

Could that be possible?
Overall I feel like the car is heavier. I will see if I get the same feeling with an empty tank. Might just be the fuel moving that creates this effect.

Ohhhh, myyyyyyy - I suggest you consult with your physician, your medications may need adjusting -






humfrz

[slizoth]

I'm in a similar place to OP, I have a basic understanding of mechanical engineering. I've done a handful of things to my car and usually the new stuff is how I learn.

My car is now at 37k miles and I'm still working down some of the 30k maintenance. This weekend I'll be cleaning the MAF, Throttle Body, and running some fuel injector cleaner.

Bigger projects include putting the car on jack stands and taking the wheels off to inspect the suspension, rotate tires, inspect the parking break, and check the transmission oil.

I see it as a fun way to learn and practical because it saves me money. My hope is to make any mistakes on this car so that if I upgrade to something nicer I have more knowledge / confidence going into it.

[Wil]

Sorry to dig out this thread but I'm still stunned to see how harsh my transmission have become after putting some Motul Gear 300 in my gearbox and Gear 300 LS in my diff.
I've now read in the owner's manual that our cars are supposed to be filled with :
- API GL3 and SAE 75w90 for the gearbox
- API GL5 and SAE 75W85 for the diff

While the Motul Gear 300 is a API GL4/GL5 and SAE 75W90 and the 300 LS GL5 and SAE 75W90, neither perfectly fit what Toyota recommends.
Well, I know I might be comparing apples to apples but can someone explain how such difference can make such an effect on my car? Going from 3rd to 2nd is a pain in the ass without mentioning how stuck first and reverse sometimes can be. And I was obviously expecting the exact opposite when I changed the oil.

[FRSBRZGT86FAN]

Originally Posted by Wil

Sorry to dig out this thread but I'm still stunned to see how harsh my transmission have become after putting some Motul Gear 300 in my gearbox and Gear 300 LS in my diff.
I've now read in the owner's manual that our cars are supposed to be filled with :
- API GL3 and SAE 75w90 for the gearbox
- API GL5 and SAE 75W85 for the diff

While the Motul Gear 300 is a API GL4/GL5 and SAE 75W90 and the 300 LS GL5 and SAE 75W90, neither perfectly fit what Toyota recommends.
Well, I know I might be comparing apples to apples but can someone explain how such difference can make such an effect on my car? Going from 3rd to 2nd is a pain in the ass without mentioning how stuck first and reverse sometimes can be. And I was obviously expecting the exact opposite when I changed the oil.

Check your fluid levels, my friends manual wasn't harsher at all with a fluid change

[Brz_racer]

Fluid is low, make sure you add until it overflows

[ermax]

Originally Posted by Wil

Plus, I noticed a leak in the engine compartment. See picture.
Should I be worried? It's on the driver side, next to the header (that you can see on the top of the picture).

As already pointed out it's a standard feature on this car. I saw where someone on this forum used RTV to seal the area externally and it hasn't leaked in a year. I think I would go that route vs pulling and resealing the timing cover. You aren't going to hurt anything sealing it from the outside. Worst case it still leaks and you just scrape it off and try again.

Okay.. I managed to find the post:
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...5&postcount=24

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Wil

Sorry to dig out this thread but I'm still stunned to see how harsh my transmission have become after putting some Motul Gear 300 in my gearbox and Gear 300 LS in my diff.
I've now read in the owner's manual that our cars are supposed to be filled with :
- API GL3 and SAE 75w90 for the gearbox
- API GL5 and SAE 75W85 for the diff

While the Motul Gear 300 is a API GL4/GL5 and SAE 75W90 and the 300 LS GL5 and SAE 75W90, neither perfectly fit what Toyota recommends.
Well, I know I might be comparing apples to apples but can someone explain how such difference can make such an effect on my car? Going from 3rd to 2nd is a pain in the ass without mentioning how stuck first and reverse sometimes can be. And I was obviously expecting the exact opposite when I changed the oil.

Originally Posted by ermax

As already pointed out it's a standard feature on this car. I saw where someone on this forum used RTV to seal the area externally and it hasn't leaked in a year. I think I would go that route vs pulling and resealing the timing cover. You aren't going to hurt anything sealing it from the outside. Worst case it still leaks and you just scrape it off and try again.

Okay.. I managed to find the post:
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...5&postcount=24

Not convinced that sealing the timing cover will fix his latest tranny and diff concerns.

It is only a feature on the 13s. I have never leaked a drop and don't hear of many other post 13s that have either.

[ermax]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Not convinced that sealing the timing cover will fix his latest tranny and diff concerns.

It is only a feature on the 13s. I have never leaked a drop and don't hear of many other post 13s that have either.

I specifically quoted the question about the timing cover leak. No where did I say anything about his tranny or diff. I guess you are just kidding or something.

[TLD]

Originally Posted by Wil

Sorry to dig out this thread but I'm still stunned to see how harsh my transmission have become after putting some Motul Gear 300 in my gearbox and Gear 300 LS in my diff.
I've now read in the owner's manual that our cars are supposed to be filled with :
- API GL3 and SAE 75w90 for the gearbox
- API GL5 and SAE 75W85 for the diff

While the Motul Gear 300 is a API GL4/GL5 and SAE 75W90 and the 300 LS GL5 and SAE 75W90, neither perfectly fit what Toyota recommends.
Well, I know I might be comparing apples to apples but can someone explain how such difference can make such an effect on my car? Going from 3rd to 2nd is a pain in the ass without mentioning how stuck first and reverse sometimes can be. And I was obviously expecting the exact opposite when I changed the oil.

I'm not 100% sure (I did fluid change a year ago so forgot some of the stuff), but our cars use brass synchro in the transmission, and either GL4 or GL5 is bad for brass synchro (forgot which) so if possible go with the recommended GL3.

As for the diff, I think LS is not necessary in our torsen diff, but it should only changes the locking behaviour, no damage shall be done

[Ultramaroon]

GL-4 in the transmission (I like Redline MT90)
GL-5 in the diff

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Not convinced that sealing the timing cover will fix his latest tranny and diff concerns.

It is only a feature on the 13s. I have never leaked a drop and don't hear of many other post 13s that have either.

They way I read ol @ermax 's post he was just referring to the timing chain cover.

Just sayen -


humfrz

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by ermax

I specifically quoted the question about the timing cover leak. No where did I say anything about his tranny or diff. I guess you are just kidding or something.

Yep, that's what you said.

I reckon ol @Tcoat just had a "senior moment". That's his second of the day. It's happening to him more frequently -


humfrz