Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[Fricke]

Any one here got any good ground settings for reaching a desirable temp in AD08R, in size 235/45-17?
Thinking of camber/toe and caster, and of course tier pressure.
My past experience is that ku36 didn't like to go under 33-35psi warm pressure, got a little flimsy under that, or was it just in my head?

[MaximeT]

Originally Posted by Fricke

Any one here got any good ground settings for reaching a desirable temp in AD08R, in size 235/45-17?
Thinking of camber/toe and caster, and of course tier pressure.
My past experience is that ku36 didn't like to go under 33-35psi warm pressure, got a little flimsy under that, or was it just in my head?

Looks like you need a pyrometer mate

[Fricke]

Originally Posted by MaximeT

Looks like you need a pyrometer mate

Yes that too mate, but first some good and proven alignment, so that I don't waste a hole training session
So what's the recommendations for a not super sticky tier, I mean they are not any A048's so going past -3,2 camber aren't going get me any positive benefits I think.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Fricke

Any one here got any good ground settings for reaching a desirable temp in AD08R, in size 235/45-17?
Thinking of camber/toe and caster, and of course tier pressure.
My past experience is that ku36 didn't like to go under 33-35psi warm pressure, got a little flimsy under that, or was it just in my head?

Suspension? Ride Height? Spring rate?

Can't give you an alignment when I have no idea what you're running.

[Fricke]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Suspension? Ride Height? Spring rate?

Can't give you an alignment when I have no idea what you're running.

KW clubsport 2 / ride height hmmmm don't know really, haven't made contact whit the floor jet but have set them up right in between the recommendations? Any thoughts there.
Will be some time for corner weight before the alignment as well.
Spring rate as is they come in the box.
Car is also gutted and half weld in role cage, as for the weight.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Fricke

KW clubsport 2 / ride height hmmmm don't know really, haven't made contact whit the floor jet but have set them up right in between the recommendations? Any thoughts there.
Will be some time for corner weight before the alignment as well.
Spring rate as is they come in the box.
Car is also gutted and half weld in role cage, as for the weight.

Try -3 front -2 rear 1/16" toe out front 1/16" toe in rear.

[jjaisli]

@CSG_Mike A question about heat cycling.

I'm going into my 3rd full year of HPDE. I've done about 20-21 track days with NASA/SCDA/BMWCCA and a few other. I feel like I'm getting quicker, more confident. I went through my last set of Dunlop Star Specs pretty quickly and I was really chewing up the outside edges. At this point, moving at a pace that I consider "quick but comfortable", I feel like my tires go off after about 10-15 minutes. Perhaps I was just over driving a bit but I feel I'm ready for more. I'll be dialing in more camber and after going back and forth, I decided to move up to Toyo RA1s this season.

It's going to be my first experience with race compound tires and I'm a little out of my depth. And there seems to be a lot of differing opinions out there. The tires haven't been heat cycled. I haven't driven on them yet. Some people say it's not really necessary, at least not with the RA1. One person told me I'm going to tear them to shreads if I don't. One told me so long as I do one moderate session of 4-5 laps, get them up to temperature and go back to the paddock and let them sit for an hour it's fine. Somebody else said they need to sit for at least 24-48 hours after first getting up to temperature. I'm just not sure what to think anymore and the noise out there is just confusing.

My first event is going to be an open track day at Watkins Glen in early May. I'm about 200 miles from the track. Somebody else recommended I drive up the day before with the RA1s mounted. It will get them up to temperature slowly and it will allow them to cool overnight and I'll be fine.

What's your opinion on this?

[Pat]

I'm not Mike, but I'll give my opinion anyway.
In your situation it just doesn't matter. Get a good alignment (3* front, 2* rear, no toe) and enjoy the new setup. You'll love it. Don't stress over it. You're not going for that last tenth of a second per lap and you won't destroy your new tires.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by jjaisli

@CSG_Mike A question about heat cycling.

I'm going into my 3rd full year of HPDE. I've done about 20-21 track days with NASA/SCDA/BMWCCA and a few other. I feel like I'm getting quicker, more confident. I went through my last set of Dunlop Star Specs pretty quickly and I was really chewing up the outside edges. At this point, moving at a pace that I consider "quick but comfortable", I feel like my tires go off after about 10-15 minutes. Perhaps I was just over driving a bit but I feel I'm ready for more. I'll be dialing in more camber and after going back and forth, I decided to move up to Toyo RA1s this season.

It's going to be my first experience with race compound tires and I'm a little out of my depth. And there seems to be a lot of differing opinions out there. The tires haven't been heat cycled. I haven't driven on them yet. Some people say it's not really necessary, at least not with the RA1. One person told me I'm going to tear them to shreads if I don't. One told me so long as I do one moderate session of 4-5 laps, get them up to temperature and go back to the paddock and let them sit for an hour it's fine. Somebody else said they need to sit for at least 24-48 hours after first getting up to temperature. I'm just not sure what to think anymore and the noise out there is just confusing.

My first event is going to be an open track day at Watkins Glen in early May. I'm about 200 miles from the track. Somebody else recommended I drive up the day before with the RA1s mounted. It will get them up to temperature slowly and it will allow them to cool overnight and I'll be fine.

What's your opinion on this?

I'm with @Pat. It doesn't matter for you.

Interesting choice in the RA1; I would recommend you the NT01 or RC1 over the RA1, but the RA1 is a clear winner over the R888.

What alignment, suspension, and wheel setup do you run?

[Apex_BRZ]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

I'm with @Pat. It doesn't matter for you.

Interesting choice in the RA1; I would recommend you the NT01 or RC1 over the RA1, but the RA1 is a clear winner over the R888.

What alignment, suspension, and wheel setup do you run?

NT01 over the R888? What is the reason for this?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Apex_BRZ

NT01 over the R888? What is the reason for this?

Tire consistency and performance. The R888's saving grace, IMO, is that it comes in every size known to man.

[CB762]

Tire mounting question: does race slicks require any special handling compared to street tires? Do I need to ask if a shop has experience mounting a race compound?

Thanks!

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by CB762

Tire mounting question: does race slicks require any special handling compared to street tires? Do I need to ask if a shop has experience mounting a race compound?

Thanks!

Nope, but a normal shop may find the sidewalls different.

Make sure directional tires are mounted in the direction you want.

[jjaisli]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

I'm with @Pat. It doesn't matter for you.

Interesting choice in the RA1; I would recommend you the NT01 or RC1 over the RA1, but the RA1 is a clear winner over the R888.

What alignment, suspension, and wheel setup do you run?

Thanks both--appreciate the input. That was basically my attitude from the beginning and my local shop was telling me (more or less) "Heat cycling? Nah, don't worry about it. Just take it easy the first session and then let them cool down." But then I started talking to more people and the more I heard, the more my head started spinning.

Last season I was running Eibach springs so I had maybe -1.1 of front camber, which isn't a lot but I was on street tires. It wasn't enough and I was definitely rolling over in the corners.




You can't tell in that picture but I still had significant tread on the insides. I was going to go for camber bolts and adjustable rear control arms, which I did, but I also ended up with Bilstein B16s. I'll have it corner balanced in about 2 weeks time. My shop is suggesting -2.3 front and -1.7 rear to start and are looking for feedback from my first event to adjust accordingly. (They run -3.0/-2.0 on their shop BRZ for track events.) My FRS isn't my daily but it's still a street driven car. And I don't want to take giant steps or turn it into something impossibly awkward driving to and from the track.

Oh, and I'm going to be running the RA1 on 17x9 RPF1s. It's going to be a big adjustment for me this year. My Star Specs were 215s. I thought about R888s but it was my shop that suggested the RA1s instead. They said it would last longer and the performance would be more consistent over it's life span. And they're usable on a damp track where the R888s get a bit dangerous.