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Old 02-24-2014, 09:14 PM   #71
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You CAN get the IAM to be locked at 1 safely on 91 octane without disabling auto tune.
@nelsmar has managed it with my stock brz, actually, and staying within 0.2 of target afr.

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Old 02-24-2014, 09:57 PM   #72
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all IAM's should be at 1, all the time. if not your tune is too aggressive, and you're just losing power anyway. the ecu pulls more timing than it needs to, particularly when it applies coarse correction where you're pulling globally. flkc is also very aggressive in pulling timing. it definitely errs on the side of caution.

it is very easy to ensure that your IAM is 1. log knock correction, FLKC, IAM, rpm and load. do 3 or 4 WOT pulls. if you see consistent, repeatable knock correction or FLKC being applied, go into that load/rpm cell of the advance map and remove 0.3 deg at a time. obviously if it's really bad take more than 0.3 lol. rinse and repeat until you see no knock correction.

you'll usually find that you end up running more timing than what you were when it was pulling (the ecu will pull 1 degree where perhaps taking out 0.3 is enough to shut it up). that's about all there is to it. if your car isn't writing into fine correction or seeing significant fbkc, your IAM will never drop. car is happy, you are happy.

i've seen many logs and tunes where people seem to think that our car has closed-loop timing control or something. yes the knock control system is a great safety net, but you don't want to use it to control timing for you. that is effectively what you're doing when you tune into knock correction, going past the knock wall and letting the ecu pull back what it wants. this will always net you less timing than what could be safely achieved by tuning up to knock and backing off a bit. the ecu is just too aggressive with it's corrections, and the end result is a loss of timing, and thus power relative to a proper safe tune with an iam of 1 and no correction. you might get one good glory run on the dyno before the ecu has time to write in, but you'll never see that consistently in the real world.

TL;DR- knock correction is a safety mechanism, not closed-loop timing control. your iam should always be 1 or you're losing power.

Last edited by jamesm; 02-25-2014 at 12:21 AM.
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Old 02-24-2014, 10:46 PM   #73
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Agree with @jamesm, there isn't any reason for IAM to be below 1. Hell, I've got the Kraftwerks kit, and on my 91 tune my car has held rock steady at 1.0 on the iam and if anything, has only added timing. Since actually paying attention to the car's diagnostics the past few days of driving, iam hasn't changed, car is still adding timing and I'm not getting knock anywhere. Maybe I'm just lucky? Maybe it's maybelline.
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Old 02-25-2014, 12:10 AM   #74
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Agree with @jamesm, there isn't any reason for IAM to be below 1. Hell, I've got the Kraftwerks kit, and on my 91 tune my car has held rock steady at 1.0 on the iam and if anything, has only added timing. Since actually paying attention to the car's diagnostics the past few days of driving, iam hasn't changed, car is still adding timing and I'm not getting knock anywhere. Maybe I'm just lucky? Maybe it's maybelline.
you're not lucky. you have a proper, safe tune. +1 for @DeliciousTuning.
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Old 02-25-2014, 12:11 AM   #75
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Maybe it's maybelline, maybe it's @DeliciousTuning


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Old 02-25-2014, 12:24 AM   #76
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It's amazing what can even be done on a stock system in terms of tuning. There's lots of efficiency & power potential (not mutually exclusive either) in this engine without any bolt-on parts or kits. Just have a good tuner & patience to do lots of road tuning & pay for some dyno time & you too can have improved stock drivability & power.

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Old 02-25-2014, 12:27 AM   #77
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There is definitely something to be said for being patient and persistent when tuning this car. Dyno time is a huge plus too, you don't get a smoother road than a dyno!


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Old 02-25-2014, 12:32 AM   #78
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Maybe I am missing something here

If you have a tune optimised for 93 AKI (98 RON) fuel and run 93 then I would expect the IAM to be 1 and not see knock .

If you run 91 AKI (95 RON) fuel with a tune optimised for 93 then wouldn't you expect to encounter some knock and have the IAM drop to compensate.

Even on stock tune you encounter knock and get iam dropping if you run 91 instead of 93

If your tune was specifically for 91 then you should not see the IAM drop if you run 91 or better fuel.

correct ?????
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Old 02-25-2014, 12:35 AM   #79
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What they're saying is that it's better to have a tune optimized for whatever gas you actually run. When our ecu compensates for knock, it does so in spades. Enough that dialing back the timing just enough to not encounter knock at all will actually yield more power. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.


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Old 02-25-2014, 12:43 AM   #80
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What they're saying is that it's better to have a tune optimized for whatever gas you actually run. When our ecu compensates for knock, it does so in spades. Enough that dialing back the timing just enough to not encounter knock at all will actually yield more power. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.


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I would agree with you 100%

But it appears posters here are concerned that their IAM is dropping when they are running a tune designed for 93 and using 91 fuel, it not rearly the tuners fault its just to be expected.

Agreed it would be better if their was an option of a 91 and 93 optimized tune.
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Old 02-25-2014, 12:45 AM   #81
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FWIW, I am still running Vishnu OTS Stage 1 v1.55b and have switched back to 91 octane after a tank of 94. IAM stayed rock solid at 1.0 throughout the tank of 94, but when I switched back to 91 it has remained pretty much at 1.0 during my logging (done after filling up a 2nd tank of 91). I saw it dip to about 0.96 at one point but it quickly went back up to 1 again and seems to be holding steady. Don't know if the 1.55 tune is just better optimized than v1.42 but it does seem to work well for me.

http://www.datazap.me/u/pmok/stage-1...log=0&data=1-7
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Old 02-25-2014, 12:55 AM   #82
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What they're saying is that it's better to have a tune optimized for whatever gas you actually run. When our ecu compensates for knock, it does so in spades. Enough that dialing back the timing just enough to not encounter knock at all will actually yield more power. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.


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that is exactly correct. if you have knock correction being applied your tune is less than optimal. if you're running 91 on a 93 map you can expect that to be the case.
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Old 02-25-2014, 02:07 AM   #83
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Quote:
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There is definitely something to be said for being patient and persistent when tuning this car. Dyno time is a huge plus too, you don't get a smoother road than a dyno!


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But you're not paying out the ass by the hour on the road. There's certain things that you need the dyno for. The rest can be done (but more slowly) on road tuning. Good way to save lots of money. Gas costs way less than dyno time.
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Old 04-13-2015, 09:40 PM   #84
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@steve99 @jamesm @Shiv@Openflash

So a month after switching back from E85 tune to stage 1 tune, I decided to plug in my OFT and noticed my adv multiplier was down from 1 to 0.80 . It's pretty much always been at 1 even when I was running E85 on the stage 2 tune. I took a short datalog with a decently hard pull and adv multiplier increased by .01 after the pull. Heres the link to datazap:

http://www.datazap.me/u/lucasft86/lo...-9-10-12-13-14

any ideas why its down to 0.8?
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