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11-21-2018, 01:55 PM | #15 | |
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Just beware of your rear toe as it can cause you to go through tires pretty quickly. I went through a set of Michelin PSS on my street wheels in a year (~12k miles) due to my overall camber+toe. ---- Another note on 235 tire: it will be a little narrow, so you will have hardly any rim protection. I have 235 tires on my track wheels, and the wheel itself (the metal rim) is touching the ground when I set them down flat. Last edited by EndlessAzure; 11-21-2018 at 02:10 PM. |
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11-21-2018, 02:17 PM | #16 |
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I will install rear SPC LCA along with the new wheels so camber adjustments can be made in rear.
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12-18-2018, 04:46 PM | #17 | |
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I'm thinking about 17x9 +35 myself now. Do you have any pictures left? How much were they poking out in the front? And what about the rears? |
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12-18-2018, 06:13 PM | #18 | |
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That's what im afraid of with a 17x9 +35 is the poke in the front. There is no way to reverse that. Thinking of these Konig Dekagrams that are 17x9 +40, that should pull it in some more. https://konigwheels.com/wheels/flow-...eels/dekagram/
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12-18-2018, 06:19 PM | #19 | |
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What about some decent negative front camber, say 2.5-3.5 degrees, wouldn’t it solve the issue with 17x9 +35 in the front? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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12-18-2018, 06:33 PM | #20 |
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Well your really just tucking the top in. I have coilovers but am not going full slammed, I like a good 1 finger gap.
I have -1.5 fr and -1 rear and will keep it that way You can slam it and run as much negative camber as you want but a some point you will cross the line from performance to Ricer
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12-18-2018, 07:37 PM | #21 | |
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Makes sense. I’m not talking about dropping it, so keeping stock ride height, or just an inch lower. For a good track setup, with camber plates and camber bolts around 3.5-4 degrees doable without any drop. That should tuck the top in nicely, for that flushed look. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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