Dipstick question

[Qwimby2]

I read that the dipsticks are unreliable on these cars. With a cold engine I got the level right between the two dots. I have no owners manual, so I assume the dots mean full and low. I read online to warm up the engine, let it sit for 5 minutes and stick. Doing that, it's just above the low dot which is a concern.

I'm going to change oil today if I can. I don't like 0 weight oil, so plan to use Mobil 1 10w30 or 5w20 if I can find some. Is there any reason to use the OEM filter, or are Fram or Purolater OK?

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Qwimby2

I read that the dipsticks are unreliable on these cars. With a cold engine I got the level right between the two dots. I have no owners manual, so I assume the dots mean full and low. I read online to warm up the engine, let it sit for 5 minutes and stick. Doing that, it's just above the low dot which is a concern.

I'm going to change oil today if I can. I don't like 0 weight oil, so plan to use Mobil 1 10w30 or 5w20 if I can find some. Is there any reason to use the OEM filter, or are Fram or Purolater OK?

Above the bottom dot is fine. The two dots represent the proper range. If you change the oil type from what you are supposed to use and blow the engine say goodbye to the warranty. They recommend a specific oil for a reason.

[PERRIN_Chris]

A lot of good info is in the mechanical maintenance page here. What I found is that the dip stick is reads lower than what the level really is. When I put in the correct amount of oil after an oil change, it read above the top line on the dipstick. 5w 20 should be fine for where you are. I'd use the OEM filter if you could get one.

[KR-S]

Oil, or rather specifically, oil weight has actually been my main concern with this car. 0W-20 is of course recommended for normal use, but what about if you're pushing the car harder than normal? Can't recall if it's 5W-20 or 5W-30, but I believe that at least Subaru recommended 5W if the car will see hard use.

[go_a_way1]

Originally Posted by Qwimby2

I read that the dipsticks are unreliable on these cars. With a cold engine I got the level right between the two dots. I have no owners manual, so I assume the dots mean full and low. I read online to warm up the engine, let it sit for 5 minutes and stick. Doing that, it's just above the low dot which is a concern.

I'm going to change oil today if I can. I don't like 0 weight oil, so plan to use Mobil 1 10w30 or 5w20 if I can find some. Is there any reason to use the OEM filter, or are Fram or Purolater OK?

Why?? a 0W vs 5W (W stands for winter FYI) is the messure of the oil cold and thinner is better on startup??
Also Fram filters are garbage. I would use OEM if I was you as it will have a proper bypass valve setting.

[Qwimby2]

Thank you all for the good advice. After sitting another 20 minutes it's back to mid way between the dots.

There's evidence that 0 weight oil can penetrate past the rings into the combustion chamber. But that raises a good question. If I do my own oil changes and other service, do I void the warranty?

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Qwimby2

Thank you all for the good advice. After sitting another 20 minutes it's back to mid way between the dots.

There's evidence that 0 weight oil can penetrate past the rings into the combustion chamber. But that raises a good question. If I do my own oil changes and other service, do I void the warranty?

Keep very good evidence of what you used and when you did it. A date stamped picture of the oil receipts beside the odometer will remove almost any argument.

[PERRIN_Chris]

Here's a great thread by G speed about oil in our cars, lots of good info here!

[mav1178]

Originally Posted by Qwimby2

There's evidence that 0 weight oil can penetrate past the rings into the combustion chamber.

HAHAHAHAHAHAHA

Please provide evidence.

-alex

[Qwimby2]

I'm new here and FOR SURE don't want to start "yet another oil thread." we've all been through those.

I will say that one reason manufacturers want thinner oil is the .0002 MPG (or whatever the amount) it adds for CAFE standards. If you read the Miata manual carefully it reveals that.

I'll just say to each his own I prefer heavier oil in hot Florida.

[mav1178]

Again: what's the evidence?

I don't care what your oil weight preferences are. I want to know what your evidence is other than what the Miata manual says.

-alex

[Qwimby2]

Relative to this discussion...There must be creative ways to add an oil-pressure gauge. Are there some examples around? Seems to me that the analogue speedo in the BRZ is superfluous and that real estate could be used for something else.

[go_a_way1]

Originally Posted by Qwimby2

I'm new here and FOR SURE don't want to start "yet another oil thread." we've all been through those.

I will say that one reason manufacturers want thinner oil is the .0002 MPG (or whatever the amount) it adds for CAFE standards. If you read the Miata manual carefully it reveals that.

I'll just say to each his own I prefer heavier oil in hot Florida.

Just so you know the first number is the viscosity rating for the winter (hence the W) and the second number is for operating temps. So a 0W-30 would be your best bet. You can thank me later

[go_a_way1]

Originally Posted by Qwimby2

Relative to this discussion...There must be creative ways to add an oil-pressure gauge. Are there some examples around? Seems to me that the analogue speedo in the BRZ is superfluous and that real estate could be used for something else.

I have an oil temp gauge and have been meaning to install a pressure gauge one of these days, but get a sandwitch plate or an oil cooler with a sandwitch plate with ports for sensors. The install is really easy but my gauge is mounted to my A-piller with a custom piller some guy makes in the states so I need another one before I can add another guage haha.

You cant mod the speedo without a ton of work there is other things behind it for the cluster (I took mine apart and check haha) The sensor is the easy part finding a spot for it to mount thats harder IMO.