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12-28-2014, 10:59 PM | #1 |
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Dash and rear speaker recommendations
I'm looking to get a 4 channel amplifier to power new speakers in the dash and rear. The amp I'm looking at is (RMS) 75x4 @ 4 ohm or 125x4 @ 2 ohm. I've read that finding speakers to fit in the dash can be hard. Can anyone recommend speakers that can handle my amps power output and fit in the dash without too much modifications?
For the rear, any 3.5" will fit? I plan to not use the door speakers at all. Thanks Last edited by B-R-Z; 12-28-2014 at 11:28 PM. |
12-31-2014, 10:17 AM | #2 |
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I have two of these in the dash, and two of them in the rear
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003KN2TD0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1"]Amazon.com : JBL GTO328 3.5-Inch 2-Way Loudspeaker : Vehicle Speakers : Car Electronics[/ame] sound great with factory system. [ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BZFSYA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1"]Amazon.com : Infinity Reference 6032cf 6.5-Inch 180-Watt High-Performance 2-Way Speakers (Pair) : Vehicle Speakers : Car Electronics[/ame] Those are in the doors.... I've got a 12 speaker system, lol |
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12-31-2014, 12:50 PM | #3 |
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Take a look at the JBL GTO 328 for the rear. They are 2 ohms.
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12-31-2014, 04:11 PM | #4 |
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Why would you choose to not use the door speakers? They are 6" woofers and provide the only semblance of bass in the whole system. If you go with 4 4" speakers it will sound worse than it does stock.
If you only have four channels to work with I would much rather power 6.5" components for the front channel and then pick a 4" full range for the rear fill. |
12-31-2014, 04:26 PM | #5 | |
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Quote:
HERTZ ECX 100.5 4" Speakers for the rear and HERTZ ESK 163L.5 Component Speakers for the front and doors. |
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01-03-2015, 01:42 PM | #6 |
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I have a sub in the trunk and the door speakers create too much rattling and overall bad sound.
Those jbls and hertz do not have a high enough RMS power rating, or do they? Last edited by B-R-Z; 01-03-2015 at 03:07 PM. |
01-03-2015, 02:53 PM | #7 |
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I rather like my door speakers. But I sound deadened the doors. Running mine crossed at 63 and the sub at 63. Liking that more than 80 imo.
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01-03-2015, 02:58 PM | #8 |
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The sound I get from fronts and rears is really loud, and I can go 100% volume level and they sound clear... not so much when the doors are on. This is why fronts on, doors off, rears on, with sub in trunk works well.
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01-03-2015, 03:10 PM | #9 |
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I think the difference is that I rarely if ever take my HU past 50%, usually I'm running 16/40
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01-04-2015, 10:20 PM | #10 |
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Can I use a 4" in front and rear? Or 3.5" front and 4" in rear? And front has to be shallow mount, correct?
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01-05-2015, 06:45 AM | #11 | |
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Quote:
Preventing door speakers from playing sub bass will completely eliminate rattles, and allowing the big woofers in the back to play up to 80 also induces rattles, so keeping them at 60 makes everything play effortlessly and without the car resonating. |
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01-05-2015, 07:43 AM | #12 | |
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Quote:
I used 3.5 front and a 4 in the rear bracket. The rear bracket does not have a lot of clearance for a speaker frame. I had to modify to fit infinity speakers. I read that alpine speakers can drop in though.
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01-07-2015, 12:43 PM | #13 |
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Using a Soundstream RUB4.500 4 channel amp (125x4 @ 2 ohm), I am considering JBL GTO328 in dash and rear, and maybe Infinity Reference 6032cf in doors. Can I run the door and dash speakers both off of the same channel? I will probably cross the front channel where it eliminates door vibrations. I have a sub in the trunk for bass.
Do I really even need the door speakers when I have a powerful sub in the trunk? My system/highs sound plenty loud with door speakers disconnected, even when my stock radio was being used. What do you guys think? Last edited by B-R-Z; 01-07-2015 at 12:55 PM. |
01-07-2015, 01:06 PM | #14 | |
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my setup is somewhat similar to what you are suggesting. I used a audiopipe crx-303, they make a crx-202 2way crossover that would allow you to split the front channel between the doors and the dash. although as other members have suggested, you probably would be better off just buying any 6.5 or 6.75 component set for the front.
I only did mine the way I did because I bought stuff before planning my system out all the way Quote:
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