Turbo planning

[GsxrMe]

Whatever you do. You can always start at 7psi turbo setup and once your bored turn the boost up. I'm personally having a ADHD issue waiting for my 3076 kit and my 3" turbo back exhaust. Many thanks and sorrys to LJ at FBM.

[Grip Ronin]

hm i thought the fuel pump reaches really close to its limit by like 280. i was planning to change it before i go turbo.. which after like 1.5 yrs of research and forum stalking will be the avo kit

[snowdog]

Trying to put together some of the responses. Probably should break this up into more than two categories. Additional comments and fixes welcome.




220-300whp Catch can, cam block off plate (MT), hose clamps for solenoid lines, Oil cooler (depends on enviornment and how driven)


280-450+whp All above + fuel pump, flex fuel kit, fuel injectors, upgrade internals,

[rs999]

Originally Posted by campy

I'm no expert, but my understanding is that the stock AT can handle up to ~275 torques or 350whp. Everyone's experience varies because it depends heavily on how much you abuse your clutch. You could run 800hp through the stock transmission if you babied it everywhere.

As for your initial question: a big consideration is how much you're willing to spend. Here's a rough guideline of what to expect for price to performance when including labor and all the necessary supporting mods:

250-280 whp - $5,000
300-325 whp - $8,000
450+ whp - $10,000

Pay to play lol. Of course, you can save some cash if you buy parts used or get a good deal on labor (or even do it yourself), but in my experience, this is what turbo builds typically end up costing.

5K Turbo + 23K FR-S + 1K labor = 29K for Cayman performance in used Cayman territory.

I've been debating this with a co-worker. I like the Mustang I traded my FR-S for, but it's too heavy and eats brakes when doing the tight technical stuff like AUTOX. It's really more of a track/road racing car.

So I said I might try a turbo with a BRZ. However, when I add it up I end up in Porsche Cayman territory, where I can just buy and drive with no mods.

However, here are the disadvantages. Caymans in the low to mid 30Ks are well used. There's plenty of miles on the car and plenty of farts in the seats. German maintenance costs are very high as the mileage stacks up. And plunking down 30K+ for a car at a dealership doesn't feel good to me.

I figure I could find a lightly used 2014 twin, so I could get the padding refinements, and track the crap out of it. When I get tired of it, I'll add a turbo to it and track it some more.

God, I hate cars. This goldilocks game is a serious strain on the wallet.

[Raven86Project]

This is such a great post. It really helped me with my decision making on my current turbo build.

Originally Posted by AVOturboworld

250whp, 200ft/lbs of torque - you don't need to do much.

270whp, 220+ ft/lbs of torque - your clutch needs to be replaced.

300-315whp, 240+ ft/lbs of torque - you are at the limits of power on pump gas. At and after this point onwards, you need to be looking at e85, and that's where the costs come in. Flex fuel kit, larger injectors, and larger pump.

Your fuel injectors and fuel pump do not need to be replaced if you are running on pump gas, because you'll run into a octane limit before you run into a fuel flow limit.

Oil coolers are dependent upon two factors, your local temperatures and the type of kit you are running.