Clutch Pedal Travel Stopper (CPTS) Modification

[raven1231]

Originally Posted by Calum

ELIM5? What's the point of this? (serious)

Mods yo!

[JDKane527]

Originally Posted by Calum

ELIM5? What's the point of this? (serious)

The clutch pedal from the factory is allowed to travel beyond the point of engagement. At times when shifting quickly, the driver may depress the clutch well beyond the point of engagement and continually doing this will wear out the clutch pressure plate. This stopper reduces travel beyond the point of engagement, therefore reducing wear on the pressure plate.

It should be noted that this should not be used as a crutch for not being able to feel out the point of engagement. I find that I don't have to touch the stopper for shifting between gears for the way I have it adjusted.

Like other "feel" mods, this will change the way the car feels to the driver. Won't make your car any faster around a corner or drop panties.

[yaguphire]

I have to admit the felt works.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

[xxBrun0xx]

Why not just remove the spring and lower the pedal? Removing the spring will allow you to feel the point of engagement much better. Lowering the clutch pedal to slightly above the brake pedal will also reduce throw so that the clutch engages right off the floor. You mentioned you had a lowered pedal, why would you do both?

[JDKane527]

Originally Posted by xxBrun0xx

Why not just remove the spring and lower the pedal? Removing the spring will allow you to feel the point of engagement much better. Lowering the clutch pedal to slightly above the brake pedal will also reduce throw so that the clutch engages right off the floor. You mentioned you had a lowered pedal, why would you do both?

I have removed the spring and swapped the clutch slave cylinder to the smaller diameter bore. The feel is definitely improved.

Before I used this clutch pedal stopper, I lowered the clutch pedal with the OEM rubber stop to where it engaged slightly above the floor. I found that over time as the clutch fluid boils, the engagement point goes lower to the point where you can damage the clutch since it doesn't fully disengage. Another side effect of this is that you may have to adjust the ignition sensor to even start the car. You may also have to adjust the clutch sensor for your cruise control and gear indicator display to work.

If I could do it again, I would not have lowered the pedal and would have just done the stopper. Less things to have to adjust and easy to reverse.

[xxBrun0xx]

Originally Posted by JDKane527

I have removed the spring and swapped the clutch slave cylinder to the smaller diameter bore. The feel is definitely improved.

Before I used this clutch pedal stopper, I lowered the clutch pedal with the OEM rubber stop to where it engaged slightly above the floor. I found that over time as the clutch fluid boils, the engagement point goes lower to the point where you can damage the clutch since it doesn't fully disengage. Another side effect of this is that you may have to adjust the ignition sensor to even start the car. You may also have to adjust the clutch sensor for your cruise control and gear indicator display to work.

If I could do it again, I would not have lowered the pedal and would have just done the stopper. Less things to have to adjust and easy to reverse.

Really? There's no need to ever adjust the ignition sensor, but adjusting the clutch sensor is incredibly easy. I've pulled the spring and lowered ~15 cars so far, and have heard nothing but praise for the clutch mod. Considering how long our clutches seem to last, I wouldn't worry at all about fluid boiling, and it's not like it's very hard to readjust. Just seems silly to do this when there's something out there that's better that costs nothing.

How much of a difference did you think the slave cylinder made? Haven't done that, yet, but debated giving it a go. Really like the way the clutch feels now, though.

[JDKane527]

Originally Posted by xxBrun0xx

Really? There's no need to ever adjust the ignition sensor, but adjusting the clutch sensor is incredibly easy. I've pulled the spring and lowered ~15 cars so far, and have heard nothing but praise for the clutch mod. Considering how long our clutches seem to last, I wouldn't worry at all about fluid boiling, and it's not like it's very hard to readjust. Just seems silly to do this when there's something out there that's better that costs nothing.

How much of a difference did you think the slave cylinder made? Haven't done that, yet, but debated giving it a go. Really like the way the clutch feels now, though.

You will have to adjust the ignition sensor if your car won't start. The sensor is plastic for the most part and as you lower your clutch pedal to where its above the ground, you're making more contact with it than it was initially designed for from the factory.

Readjusting the clutch is easy and can be done over and over. Once the oem rubber stop is done, you'll just have the clutch lever hitting the metal.

The engagement point was difficult for me to feel with the Exedy stg2 clutch and the spring lever removed. I ordered the slave cylinder and it helped.

Everyone that has tried this rubber stopper, which is more than 20, has had improved feel and they had previously tried adjusting the clutch pedal height. Different strokes for different folks.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by JDKane527

The engagement point was difficult for me to feel with the Exedy stg2 clutch and the spring lever removed. I ordered the slave cylinder and it helped.

I've wondered about how it would work with a heavier clutch. Does the stg2 still fully engage right near the top? That's the only thing about the stock clutch that still bugs me. I'd like that to be a little lower with some leftover travel up top.

Originally Posted by JDKane527

Everyone that has tried this rubber stopper, which is more than 20, has had improved feel and they had previously tried adjusting the clutch pedal height. Different strokes for different folks.

Options are always nice.

[JDKane527]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

I've wondered about how it would work with a heavier clutch. Does the stg2 still fully engage right near the top? That's the only thing about the stock clutch that still bugs me. I'd like that to be a little lower with some leftover travel up top.

Mine doesn't fully engage right near the top, probably 1/4-1/3 of the travel. I have to push down about 2/3 of the pedal's full travel to disengage.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by JDKane527

Mine doesn't fully engage right near the top, probably 1/4-1/3 of the travel. I have to push down about 2/3 of the pedal's full travel to disengage.

I'm torn between a couple ideas. The stock clutch is weak because either they just focused on minimizing pedal weight or there's some other limiting factor to be considered.

[reeves]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

I just cleaned the hard stop with some acetone and used one of these little buttons. Works perfectly and I have 15 extra.

Inspired by this, I looked for other skid feet pads made of rubber that might work better for me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W9N2S7E/




The bump stop in the 1st post is just too thick.
These are square, and a perfect size to cover that square-shaped area.

Now I just need to dig up some #8 screws out of the tool chest to tighten it down (I bought the ones with 3M tape and no screws).

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by reeves

The bump stop in the 1st post is just too thick.
These are square, and a perfect size to cover that square-shaped area.

Looks good. The funny thing is that I posted my solution before I really understood OP's original intent.



Accidentally hijacked the thread.

[JDKane527]

Originally Posted by reeves

The bump stop in the 1st post is just too thick.
These are square, and a perfect size to cover that square-shaped area.

Now I just need to dig up some #8 screws out of the tool chest to tighten it down (I bought the ones with 3M tape and no screws).

Glad you found a solution to work for you. Have you tried out the bumpstop?
The thickness of the bumpstop by itself is at the limit of where you will not have issues with ignition and allows fully depressing the clutch enough for shifts. If you have lowered the clutch pedal height, then you may have to adjust it with the bumpstop.

The mounting plate on the car is not threaded, so a nut will be needed to secure your bump stop if you choose to bolt it down.

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Looks good. The funny thing is that I posted my solution before I really understood OP's original intent.

Accidentally hijacked the thread.

It's all good, the solutions are similar in that they provide a better bump stop compared to oem. There are multiple solutions to get the same outcome.

[reeves]

Originally Posted by JDKane527

Glad you found a solution to work for you. Have you tried out the bumpstop?
The thickness of the bumpstop by itself is at the limit of where you will not have issues with ignition and allows fully depressing the clutch enough for shifts. If you have lowered the clutch pedal height, then you may have to adjust it with the bumpstop.

The mounting plate on the car is not threaded, so a nut will be needed to secure your bump stop if you choose to bolt it down.

I'm just being a little picky, no problem with the your round bump stop. I like to sit back in chair a bit when I drive, so 1) I need the clutch to not fully press in as far as the factory bump stop, but 2) also not sit higher than the brake pedal when it's not pressed.

After switching out the clutch slave cylinder to a smaller one, and adjusting my clutch pedal to a more comfortable height (about even/ maybe a smidge lower than the brake), the square bump stop is perfect height for my setup.

If I could shorten the clutch stroke even more, the round bump stop would definitely work.