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Old 11-06-2018, 03:17 PM   #15
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The 2017 MY are supposedly harder to close because they made the gas shocks harder to better support the wieght of the aluminium wing. But I think they made them a bit too hard.
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Old 11-06-2018, 03:45 PM   #16
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My '17 takes a lot more effort than my '14 did. Stupid amounts more. Not to get it to shut, but to actually latch successfully.



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Pressing down from the middle of the trunk helps a little.

If you have the wing, doing this will cause it to dent the trunk in the middle.
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Old 11-06-2018, 04:25 PM   #17
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My '17 takes a lot more effort than my '14 did. Stupid amounts more. Not to get it to shut, but to actually latch successfully.






If you have the wing, doing this will cause it to dent the trunk in the middle.
Learn something new every time I flip through the ole manual...

I'm guessing the middle of my trunk is pretty dented by now

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Old 11-06-2018, 04:27 PM   #18
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Yeah, I noticed mine is dented. I'm not the only one that has closed the trunk, so who knows when it happened. Stupid design.
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Old 11-06-2018, 05:15 PM   #19
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Quote:
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My '17 takes a lot more effort than my '14 did. Stupid amounts more. Not to get it to shut, but to actually latch successfully.






If you have the wing, doing this will cause it to dent the trunk in the middle.

I will check and see if the trunk is dented under the spoiler bumper. If I push down from either side instead of from the middle, it won't latch. I took the latch apart once but it did not seem like there was any adjustability unless I start modifying things...
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Old 11-06-2018, 06:42 PM   #20
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Inspect the striker plate as well -- the rubber bumper on mine split apart ~15k miles, and the latch was hitting the metal. The dealership had to replace the striker plate and latch to the tune of $200 (under warranty) just because the little rubber piece broke.
I just went out to my car... and the rubber piece is starting to split yet again.
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Old 11-06-2018, 06:50 PM   #21
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With junk in my trunk that didn't allow it to close nicely, I slammed it shut and cracked my tail light. Stupid. I would suggest not doing this...
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Old 11-06-2018, 07:35 PM   #22
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With junk in my trunk that didn't allow it to close nicely, I slammed it shut and cracked my tail light. Stupid. I would suggest not doing this...
well, don't try to store all of your old OEM suspension parts in the trunk.


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Old 11-06-2018, 08:19 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nico_rsx View Post
The 2017 MY are supposedly harder to close because they made the gas shocks harder to better support the wieght of the aluminium wing. But I think they made them a bit too hard.
Harder struts are only on cars with stock wings.

I should also clarify, I said mine was hard relative to the doors, but it's still not terribly hard, from wide open I just put one finger in the cowboy hat and shut it in one motion. The only times I've had it fail to latch is when I tried to give it a swing and let it go, the struts just completely slow it down.

(Edited for autocomplete shenanigans)

Last edited by RZNT4R; 11-07-2018 at 05:37 AM.
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Old 11-06-2018, 09:15 PM   #24
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Harder struts are only on cars with stock wings.
Maybe, but OP has a BRZ, and all 17' BRZ have the OEM wing.
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Old 11-06-2018, 09:23 PM   #25
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My '17 BRZ did the same thing when I first got it. Never had the issue with my '13 FRS but I did buy that one used.

It seems like eventually things "break in" with the latch mechanism and now the trunk lid shuts nice and smooth.

I seriously thought my trunk was broken or defective it was so hard to shut when I first bought it.
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Old 11-07-2018, 03:04 AM   #26
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My '17 BRZ did the same thing when I first got it. Never had the issue with my '13 FRS but I did buy that one used.

It seems like eventually things "break in" with the latch mechanism and now the trunk lid shuts nice and smooth.

I seriously thought my trunk was broken or defective it was so hard to shut when I first bought it.
Interesting. Mine still has the problem, but I know the 'right' way to close it and avoid the issue most of the time (still happens occasionally).

But yeah, first night I had the car I left the trunk 'open' overnight because I thought I closed it, only to find out in the morning it hadn't latched.
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It sounds to me like the delicate, metallic sounds of piston skirts slapping against the cylinder walls
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Now, if it was three feet long and you were using all that leverage
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Old 11-07-2018, 11:48 PM   #27
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26 posts commenting on shutting the trunk lid on a car.





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Old 12-22-2018, 10:42 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by dhuang View Post
Inspect the striker plate as well -- the rubber bumper on mine split apart ~15k miles, and the latch was hitting the metal. The dealership had to replace the striker plate and latch to the tune of $200 (under warranty) just because the little rubber piece broke.
Thanks for all the replies, I did a quick inspection of the latch and I think that those blaming the striker plate are on to something.

If you look at the rubber bumper notice how the arm where it seats pivots up higher than one would expect and the rubber is contacted at an angle, almost at a 45 degree. I would think that moving the arm down a bit, maybe by putting a little rubber on the arm stop to prevent it from going up as high.

in any case the striking of the rubber is not an a ideal angle, this explains the rubber not lasting, and the effort required.

I will take a closer look soon by removing the plastic.
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