Lightweight Pulley Install on Automatic?!

[F1fletch]

Frustrated, I have the GrimmSpeed tool but don't see anyway to use it with the stock pulley. Pulley just spins with car in park or drive so no Bueno there. Do I have to buy an OEM tool to get it out?? Also could get the alternator pulley loose with my 100lb impact.... This is turning not fun in a hurry.

Appreciate advice from anyone with AT Trans install experience.

Thanks

[Freeman]

I don't think this will be appreciated, and I'm sorry, but as a guy who had one on his car. It was the most pointless mod I ever did. Couldn't feel a damn thing in responsiveness. If there was any The autotrans muted it.

I had a shop install mine, but they did mention it was a bitch to do

[F1fletch]

I was able to use the grimmspeed tool as a wedge along with the 1/2 drive. Once rotated to where the idler pulley sits it came loose with the breaker. Alternator pulley finally came loose too!! Patience is key.

I don't expect huge gains from anyog the pulleys (5) but it won't hurt and should look nice

[Lonewolf]

Originally Posted by F1fletch

I don't expect huge gains from anyog the pulleys (5) but it won't hurt and should look nice

There have been many people on this forum who would claim otherwise. I am not an expert on engine balancing and dampening, but I know several have had issues after installing various types of aftermarket pulleys.

[asphaltfrs2014]

I've had my Perrin lightweight crank, accessory kit pulleys on my auto for over 4 months, no issues whatsoever. It was a pain to get the crank pulley loose, eventually bought the removal tool from Rally Sport Direct. Two days later I had tool in hand. OEM part was easy to uninstall with tool, but the install of the Perrin was tricky. Wound up bending the bolts on the tool but I got it installed. (Air tools would have made it easier, but was concerned I would spin the crank)

[86_dion]

Originally Posted by F1fletch

Frustrated, I have the GrimmSpeed tool but don't see anyway to use it with the stock pulley. Pulley just spins with car in park or drive so no Bueno there. Do I have to buy an OEM tool to get it out?? Also could get the alternator pulley loose with my 100lb impact.... This is turning not fun in a hurry.

Appreciate advice from anyone with AT Trans install experience.

Thanks

Very difficult install. Suggest getting it done by a professional to avoid any problems in the future. Upon install of the three raceseng pullies, i felt an improved throttle response. Revs were a bit quicker. Hardest part imo was breaking the bolt that held the crank pulley but once thats out its a piece of cake just be very careful. Well worth it as a bolt on in my opinion. Good luck and looks great in engine bay.

[Imperius]

According to the new service manual the crank shaft bolt should be tightened in a different way from 94lbf, the new way is 14lbf and than another 90 deg turn on the bolt.

I was wondering if people are doing it the old way or the new way ?

I have AT and I am not sure i can pull the replacement the new way without some damage to the aluminum pulley.

[new2subaru]

Originally Posted by Imperius

According to the new service manual the crank shaft bolt should be tightened in a different way from 94lbf, the new way is 14lbf and than another 90 deg turn on the bolt.

I was wondering if people are doing it the old way or the new way ?

I have AT and I am not sure i can pull the replacement the new way without some damage to the aluminum pulley.

Mine was tightened to 94 ft lbs. I have around 5-7km on it with no issues. I can't quite recall the mileage when it went on.

[Somerandom18]

I'd avoid 14 + 90 degrees. My last car had a new torque spec like that and the pulley flew off after 20 miles. It's not enough just be safe with 94.

Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk

[nikitopo]

Originally Posted by Imperius

According to the new service manual the crank shaft bolt should be tightened in a different way from 94lbf, the new way is 14lbf and than another 90 deg turn on the bolt.

The second method is more safe, but in general both methods are usually identical.

[Imperius]

Originally Posted by Somerandom18

I'd avoid 14 + 90 degrees. My last car had a new torque spec like that and the pulley flew off after 20 miles. It's not enough just be safe with 94.

Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk

So you are saying 14 + 90 is over kill ?

[Calum]

Originally Posted by Lonewolf

There have been many people on this forum who would claim otherwise. I am not an expert on engine balancing and dampening, but I know several have had issues after installing various types of aftermarket pulleys.

I installed a pulley because I thought it would be a good mod.


The only difference I felt was the engine vibrated more. I took it off.

[Calum]

Originally Posted by nikitopo

The second method is more safe, but in general both methods are usually identical.

The torque setting with an angle is a torque to yield setting. If you're doing that you need to use a new bolt each time.