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Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing.


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Old 05-20-2013, 08:05 PM   #85
RYU
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Alright so quick update, I spent all afternoon working on the adjustments.

- The noise seems to come from the front left (drivers side) and almost like a clanking/rattling when I hit a bump. Again sounds like the sway bar is hanging on by a thread.

- I went all the way to 0 on everything. It seems like 0 clicks compression and 2-3 clicks rebound seem to be the best to avoid the bounce. They are still pretty harsh, tends to be a little jerky, and I can feel the lost performance. I found what I consider the best for performance but it comes at a heavy price. It feels like a full out race car, nothing that is streetable.

I'm putting my new tires and rims on but I think it will only amplify the issues. I'm very surprised how not street friendly the R2s are. As I've mentioned I've run KWs and Bilsteins and when you go to a softer setting they ride like stock. The R2s can barely get close to a streetable setting for me. My roads aren't the best but I feel like they should ride smoother. A little disappointed as of now.
nevermind...

Last edited by RYU; 05-20-2013 at 10:54 PM.
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Old 05-20-2013, 08:28 PM   #86
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Really sorry you guys are having issues, I am 100% sure Eibach will resolve whatever problems you may be having though.
@Jackson any ideas on how many sets of R1's and R2's have been shipped out?
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Old 05-20-2013, 08:31 PM   #87
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I'm sure they must have thought I was losing my mind when I explained to them pretty much what you just wrote. I'm on the R1s though. BTW, how is your TCS behaving?
When Mark replies back, I should be heading down to Eibach next week. Btw I did notice on a steep driveway my traction control going off and I heard a bunch of noise (Tings, clunks). I wasn't bottoming out but I played it safe and went a different way. I thought maybe one wheel was off the ground.

Last edited by Hanakuso; 05-20-2013 at 10:35 PM.
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Old 05-20-2013, 09:09 PM   #88
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Quit it with that..

When Mark replies back, I should be heading down to Eibach next week. Btw I did notice on a steep driveway my traction control going off and I heard a bunch of noise (Tings, clunks). I wasn't bottoming out but I played it safe and went a different way. I thought maybe one wheel was off the ground.
That is exactly what it is. One wheel off the ground and diff going crazy. Name:  ImageUploadedByTapatalk1369098547.465375.jpg
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Old 05-21-2013, 01:06 AM   #89
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That is exactly what it is. One wheel off the ground and diff going crazy. Attachment 38064
Yup, this.

Even with all the aids off, if tire spins, the diff/TCS will engage to stop the spin, so you can put power down. THe way our factory diff works, without the TCS kicking in, you're stuck; gotta have some sort of resistance on the lifted wheel for the other wheel to get power.

If you tripod like this with the Pedal Dance.... you're stuck.
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Old 05-21-2013, 01:33 AM   #90
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That TCS issue is due to suspension articulation. In my experience good dampers will cause TCS to come on less of the time as opposed to more of the time when the car is driven at speed; all other things being equal.
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Old 05-21-2013, 06:57 AM   #91
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Yup, this.

Even with all the aids off, if tire spins, the diff/TCS will engage to stop the spin, so you can put power down. THe way our factory diff works, without the TCS kicking in, you're stuck; gotta have some sort of resistance on the lifted wheel for the other wheel to get power.

If you tripod like this with the Pedal Dance.... you're stuck.
To add onto that, we have torsen diff so tcs has to kick in for the wheel thats on the ground to work. and IF you have pedal dance on for some reason while stuck, use a bit of E Brake then the rear wheel that isnt in the air will spin
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Old 05-21-2013, 08:04 AM   #92
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I got mine yesterday and now im having 2nd thoughts about installing the R2's. I might change the spring rate before installing these.
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Old 05-21-2013, 09:16 AM   #93
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If you tripod like this with the Pedal Dance.... you're stuck.
Pull the e brake a little

I still haven't driven my car enough to review. I'm running 2 comp and 6 rebound currently. My car is currently in an airport parking lot where it will stay for another week
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Old 05-21-2013, 10:17 AM   #94
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Pull the e brake a little

I still haven't driven my car enough to review. I'm running 2 comp and 6 rebound currently. My car is currently in an airport parking lot where it will stay for another week
I'm currently running on 3/10 comp 6/7 rebound. Seems like the stiffer springs will require us to run more rebound. Hopefully I'll get to play with the settings more in early June.

How can you tell if the damper isn't providing enough rebound for the springs?
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Old 05-21-2013, 11:10 AM   #95
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I'm currently running on 3/10 comp 6/7 rebound. Seems like the stiffer springs will require us to run more rebound. Hopefully I'll get to play with the settings more in early June.

How can you tell if the damper isn't providing enough rebound for the springs?
Best way I can describe is that when the car rolls, it'll roll "too quickly" or "too hard", and the weight transfer will cause a loss of traction. With enough rebound damping, it'll roll, but without the loss of traction from swing/transfer being too big.
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Old 05-21-2013, 02:21 PM   #96
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I found 4/10 compression and 6/7 rebound to perform very well but again I've been plagued with the issues I spoke about. 0/10 compression and 2-3/7 rebound seem to be the easiest riding set up and dial out as much of the bounce that I get.
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Old 05-21-2013, 04:05 PM   #97
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Quick question - is it better to have the rear stiffer than the front or should it be equal with the front?
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Old 05-21-2013, 04:19 PM   #98
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Quick question - is it better to have the rear stiffer than the front or should it be equal with the front?
That depends...for most good coilovers front and rear are not valved identically so a setting of 2 on the front does not equal a setting of 2 on the rear. It's not a direct comparison, but you'll likely be in the same neighborhood (if the shocks are valved well).

Ideally your buttdyno is sensitive enough that you can mentally separate front and rear when you're dialing it in, but it isn't easy.

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