F1point4's Asphalt FR-S 6MT

[F1point4]

Roughed her up pretty good. She's in the shop now. Scraped a pole while backing in, was malnourished hence the lack of concentration.

Staying positive though...the body shop will professionally debadge my car for me. The postal service with the Toyota badges needs to hurry up!


201208Accident by VictorN07, on Flickr

[nujee86]

awwww dam that sux

[Justin91M]

Damn that sucks! I feel like when i get mine, im bound to hit something in a short time...its the curse man!

[F1point4]

Another positive note. I was chatting with @DarrenDriven about wheel flushness. In this case I'm glad Subaru didn't set up the wheels flushed or I'd have one messed up wheel.

The shop told me to fix this was about a 3 out of 10 so I'm fairly optimistic everything will be fine. I've used them before on a different car my family still has and they do good work.

[F1point4]

Car is still in the shop. The techs told me they had to order a bracket that held the bumper to the car and called around to get paint codes since the car is so new. I took this as a positive sign that they are not half-assing the repair.

In the meanwhile these came in the mail. (Toyota emblems not pictured. Gave them to the body shop)

Thanks Luis at Carson Toyota for the side markers and emblems

201208UpcomingMods by VictorN07, on Flickr

Thanks Grimmspeed for the wonderful oil filler cap.

GrimmCapCloseup by VictorN07, on Flickr


GrimmCapLimitedEdition by VictorN07, on Flickr

[F1point4]

Got my car back from the body shop. For those in the Houston Area, I recommend Tennison Automotive to get your car fixed. Here is a pic of the before and after. I'm so glad to have the car back.


TennisonRepair by VictorN07, on Flickr

The shop even re-badged the car for me. I used Toyota emblems purchased from Carson Toyota. For those who want to know Here are the emblems.

ReBadge - Family by VictorN07, on Flickr

My favorite picture

ReBadge - FRdashS by VictorN07, on Flickr

Front emblem is slightly larger than the rear emblem. The badge is not filled in.

ReBadge - Front by VictorN07, on Flickr

ReBadge - Front Back by VictorN07, on Flickr

The rear emblem

ReBadge - Rear by VictorN07, on Flickr

ReBadge - Rear Back by VictorN07, on Flickr

I drive a Toyota now.

20120814-PostCollisionRepairDamage-11 by VictorN07, on Flickr

20120814-PostCollisionRepairDamage-2 by VictorN07, on Flickr

[jarviz]

how much for the repair? was it just a paint job?

[tnt]

very nice !

[F1point4]

I was quoted 1200 out of pocket. Lots of R&I (remove and install), materials, reshaping, labor.

Ended up filing a claim.


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F1point4

[F1point4]

1702 miles and did my first oil change. My items used were

Subaru 130 OEM Oil Filter
Filtermag SS 300
Fumoto F-108 Oil Drain Valve and Spring Clip
Amsoil 0W-20 Signature Oil
ESCO Curved Saddle Jack stand
Harbor Freight Floor Jack and Wheel Chocks
Block of wood
Grimmspeed Oil Filler Cap
Tools, gloves, funnels, etc to do the job.

Observations and Notes
+ Following Grimm's DIY (link) I used the block of wood with the jack to lift the front end of the car. At the highest point the Jackstands at the lowest height would not slide under the pinch welds. I had to remove the pin and just let the saddle rest in the stand. Fortunately the post was long enough that in this setting it was touching on the ground for somewhat added support
+ 30 minutes for cooldown after some distance driving, the oil drain bolt is still super hot
+ The Subaru OEM filter came pregreased. I did not add apply oil to the ring seal. Hopefully i can remove it
+ Hand tightened the filter only
+ The Filtermag SS300 fits on the #130 Subaru filter well.
+ Took a few tries but Grimm's oil filler cap screwed in. Looks beautiful. Since it is made of Aluminium it does get hot during engine operation.
+ The Fumoto Drain Valve fits on like a champ. I torqued it down using a 19mm open ended wrench. Tightened to my satisfaction.
+ The drain valve is inset the skid pan. Its fairly close to flush though. I would say 1/4" to 1/2" just by looking at it.
+ I had to use big pliers to open the spring clip to get it on. My bare hands would not do it.
+ I initially put in 5.1 quarts of oil. Let the engine run for a few minutes, then added 0.4 more quarts. My dipstick read 2/3 up between the two dots. I'll check again in a few days.
+ The disposed oil filled up a 5 quart jug good. I didn't think to get a precise measurement.


Here is a photo of the valve with the clip in place

20120815-FirstOilChange-3 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Direction the Oil will drain from the car.

20120815-FirstOilChange-1 by VictorN07, on Flickr

From far away the end of the spring clip barely sticks out. I think I can rotate it so nothing sticks out.

20120815-FirstOilChange-6 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Filtermag Fitment on the #130 Filter (rare bad photo)

Filtermag by VictorN07, on Flickr

[Phaedrus29]

Thanks for the info. Would you recommend that jack? Or maybe there's one that would let you jack the car up a bit higher? I tried my small craftsman jack today but I can't reach the jackpoint in the middle of the car...can you with that harbor freight jack?

[F1point4]

Originally Posted by Phaedrus29

Thanks for the info. Would you recommend that jack? Or maybe there's one that would let you jack the car up a bit higher? I tried my small craftsman jack today but I can't reach the jackpoint in the middle of the car...can you with that harbor freight jack?

Several things I could do to correct the situation
- get a floor jack that could lift higher
- get stands that are smaller (I have tall stands)
- find a thicker block of wood to place between the jack and frame (could be unsafe)

I think I'd try a thicker block of wood next time.

As for sliding the jack under the center jack points, mine doesn't fit either in its resting position. I had to pump and hold the handle all the way down for the jack to clear the front lip. Even in this position I probably had like 1/2" to 1" of space between the jack and the front lip. This is probably why I wont buy a larger floor jack.

If my car was lowered I'm afraid I'd have to buy one of those long flat jacks to lift it.


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F1point4

[Draco-REX]

I like those jack stands.

Originally Posted by F1point4

Several things I could do to correct the situation
- get a floor jack that could lift higher
- get stands that are smaller (I have tall stands)
- find a thicker block of wood to place between the jack and frame (could be unsafe)

I think I'd try a thicker block of wood next time.

As for sliding the jack under the center jack points, mine doesn't fit either in its resting position. I had to pump and hold the handle all the way down for the jack to clear the front lip. Even in this position I probably had like 1/2" to 1" of space between the jack and the front lip. This is probably why I wont buy a larger floor jack.

If my car was lowered I'm afraid I'd have to buy one of those long flat jacks to lift it.


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F1point4

Why not a couple boards and a set of ramps?

[F1point4]

Originally Posted by Draco-REX

I like those jack stands.


Why not a couple boards and a set of ramps?

Haha. I don't have my own garage so I have to carry my gear to one of my work sites. Need to keep it minimum. In the end, jacks and stands allow me to do more than ramps do, that's all.