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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for!


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Old 03-18-2019, 12:02 PM   #15
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You don't need to use an impact, but this is the quickest and easiest way. Many shock manufacturers specifically tell you not to do it, but then again, it's also pretty much the only way without a collection of tools most people do not have. If you have the right tools, you'd be using a crows-foot on a short bar to hold the shock shaft where it's keyed, and then torquing the top nut with a torque wrench. On some shocks you can use an allen key through the center to hold the shock shaft while using a pass-through socket set to tighten and torque the top nut, but on some shocks this damages the internals.


The impact, if not misused, is actually the most effective and safe way to do it. You need to "pulse" it on, not just wail on it.


I don't have MCS shocks, so YMMV.
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Old 03-18-2019, 12:37 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by AFRichZC6 View Post
It sounds a lot like rear top hats not fully torqued, or your top hat bearing has play and may need replacement if they are used units (but they're not). Just a tiny bit of looseness in torque or in the bearing will cause them to clunk like that over tiny bumps in the road.

I always torque mine by giving them a couple quicks zaps of the impact gun, otherwise, it's difficult to keep the shaft from rotating in the shock body. I installed them that way on a buddy's set of MCS, my ASTs during several spring swaps, Koni yellows, etc. It's fine.

Have you tried installing the stock top hats to see if the sound is still present?
Against my better judgement, I just hit both rears with my Milwaukee mid-torque on the low setting for a couple quick zaps. Still this (this is me just pushing down on the rear):
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IvbLCFpWCog[/ame]

Using the stock top mounts crossed my mind, but I don't have the spring perch adapters to work with the 60mm coilover springs. I'm guessing that I'll be fine without adapters though if it's just for troubleshooting purposes. I might have to try that tonight.
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Old 03-18-2019, 12:40 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by ka-t_240 View Post
Most manufactures specifically state to NOT use an impact on the top nut and state it can damage the internals of the strut.

I know and I ignore this recommendation and so does Vorshlag. You can use an impact just need to be careful with it.



[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bab6x47CSs[/ame]
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Old 03-18-2019, 12:43 PM   #18
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I have MCS 2wnr that make a clunking from the rear since purchased new. I went through all the same rounds of troubleshooting you are: torque on all bolts, rear sway bar, top nut torque, upper mounts... nothing solved it. I attached a camera under the car to see if the spring was lifting off the perch during rebound but it did not look like there was any movement. I ended up sending them them back to MCS so they could have a look. They found nothing wrong or unusual during the rebuild. After the rebuild they are still making clunking noise. It seems to just be the way they are....

I do notice that set at max stiffness the clunking noise happens less frequently/loudly.

I have Vorshlag rear upper mounts by the way.
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Old 03-18-2019, 12:45 PM   #19
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Another thing to try is to jack up the rear, one wheel or both or just the suspect wheel. Take off the wheel and grab a second jack and jack it up to your ride height. Look at everything closely, see if any thing is hitting.
Try a GoPro see if yo can catch the issue that way.


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Old 03-18-2019, 02:01 PM   #20
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A buddy of mine had this issue with the 2 way non remotes and it was the shocks themselves making the noise internally.
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Old 03-18-2019, 02:02 PM   #21
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Installed coilovers, now I have clunks. Help!

I’ve heard that before. I do have an older set that I had rebuilt to 2WNR. MCS informed me that they had resolved this issue in the newer models.


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Old 03-18-2019, 02:12 PM   #22
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A buddy of mine had this issue with the 2 way non remotes and it was the shocks themselves making the noise internally.
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I’ve heard that before. I do have an older set that I had rebuilt to 2WNR. MCS informed me that they had resolved this issue in the newer models.


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Thanks guys. I did talk to Wyatt at MCS again today and they are more than willing to do a free inspection. I'm going to try the stock top mounts tonight just to eliminate one more variable, and if the sound is still there...I'm going to send them in.
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Old 03-18-2019, 02:19 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by ka-t_240 View Post
Most manufactures specifically state to NOT use an impact on the top nut and state it can damage the internals of the strut.
Yeah because most people just run the damn gun for way too long. I've never had a strut issue with a quick tightening zap over many dozens of dampers.
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Old 03-18-2019, 02:41 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Tristor View Post
You don't need to use an impact, but this is the quickest and easiest way. Many shock manufacturers specifically tell you not to do it, but then again, it's also pretty much the only way without a collection of tools most people do not have. If you have the right tools, you'd be using a crows-foot on a short bar to hold the shock shaft where it's keyed, and then torquing the top nut with a torque wrench. On some shocks you can use an allen key through the center to hold the shock shaft while using a pass-through socket set to tighten and torque the top nut, but on some shocks this damages the internals.


The impact, if not misused, is actually the most effective and safe way to do it. You need to "pulse" it on, not just wail on it.


I don't have MCS shocks, so YMMV.

Yup, I use pass-through sockets. Cheap at the Harbor Freight.
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Old 03-18-2019, 03:06 PM   #25
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Yup, I use pass-through sockets. Cheap at the Harbor Freight.
Yep, that's what I normally use too. However the MCS hex shock adjuster is on the top and you're not supposed to use the hex to hold the shaft from spinning. They typically recommend tightening with a wrench, and then whacking the wrench with a mallet or hand.

But like @Dave-ROR said, you apparently can use an impact as long as you're careful.
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Old 03-18-2019, 04:19 PM   #26
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I always hear noise with spherical rear mounts on all cars. Noise just transfer in the cabin easily.
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Old 03-18-2019, 04:23 PM   #27
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I always hear noise with spherical rear mounts on all cars. Noise just transfer in the cabin easily.
He has a point, is it play in the bearings?

We had issues with a civic that we did full spherical on, it clunked like it had a wheel bearing out when you pushed on the wheels. Needless to say the company was using crap parts in their kits. Replaced with good stuff and noises went away.
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Old 03-18-2019, 07:42 PM   #28
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Alright, I did some more troubleshooting with the stock rear top mounts...the same noise is still there, albeit a hair quieter. I'm guessing that the OEM rear mounts (which have some rubber) isolate the noise a bit vs the all metal Raceseng's, but the same noise is definitely still there. I did inspect the lower mounting bearing on the shock itself, and it didn't seem to have any play. I also tried lowering the ride height...same noise. I tried removing the rear sway bar...same noise. It seems like the common denominator here is the rear shocks, so I might as well send them in. I'll also note that I did check the shocks without the springs on them, and they compress and retract smoothly and as expected.

To complicate things more, I also noticed some oil seepage on the front shocks. There is not a lot, but just enough to see it on the shock shaft, and my finger will pick up some oil residue at the collar where the shaft enters the housing. I'm double checking with MCS, but I'm guessing those will warrant further inspection and rebuild as well.

At this point, I'm about ready to just send in all 4 for a proper inspection, rebuild and revalve to my new spring rates.

This whole process reminds me why I left my FRS mostly stock for the first 3 years
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