Motor is Blown, how do I proceed?

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

It is hard to know what is damaged and to what extent.

Your turbo could be rebuilt. If it was a rod and just metal in the oil then the central oil passage could just need cleaning. If there was damage in the chamber then your exhaust fins could have been damaged. Again, rebuild or replace.

The engine needs to get pulled, cleaned and evaluated for damage. Only then will you know if it is salvageable. Find out the price of a disassembly and inspection. See if a builder is willing to discount an inspection if you do a build. Any metal in the oil will go everywhere in the motor and damage all surfaces. In that case, it might be cheaper and safer to just get a new motor.

FYI, I doubt 10w40 is what caused the damage. What type of numbers are you putting down?

Yep. The current assumption is a thrown rod but it could be a spun bearing.


The probability of the oil causing a thrown rod exists but is very low on the likelihood scale (technical term). Would expect to see a spun bearing from an oil issue before a thrown rod.
If it is a rod the higher probabilities are over rev, excessive heat or over boost.

[YamahaR86]

[Code Monkey]

Get a used full block, minimal down time and a minimal headache down the road. If you get a built engine and if fails, the builder will blame it on a poor tune, the tuner on a poor build, and you will be out of money. For the amount you spend on a built engine, you will be able to go through 3-4 stock long blocks.

[ls1ac]

With your experience level, talk to local owners about shops in your area that have done a swap of this engine. All will say they can do it, but find one that has done this engine and you will not be paying them to learn.
Go visit several, you may find one you are comfortable with, and if a small shop they may let you help with the exchange.
A very good way to learn under the eyes of a pro.

[pgranberg11]

the problem isn't the oil or the amount "total" amount of power.. the problem was ripping it 2nd gear. there's way more torque load on the motor in 1st and 2nd. and I NEVER floor it in 2nd gear. there should be 0 need to do that, plus you most likely will have no grip either. - sorry to hear about the kaboom....

Anyways, i blew my motor supercharged years ago, but i did have a hole in my block. I don't trust built blocks, but that's just me. I only felt comfortable with an OEM block from the junkyard that was verified in working condition before it was pulled. 3 years later and many track days later, that junkyard block is running on turbo with similar power as you, if not maybe slightly more.

honestly, if I were you, get an OEM used junkyard block and dump it in and reinstall turbo. While you're driving the car around that way, take the blown motor and send it to a shop for a rebuild that you 100% trust and when it's done being built put it aside for a rainy day when your junkyard long block goes.

If you don't have the cash for that, oem used junkyard block is the way to go imo. good luck.

[tomm.brz]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Yep. The current assumption is a thrown rod but it could be a spun bearing.


The probability of the oil causing a thrown rod exists but is very low on the likelihood scale (technical term). Would expect to see a spun bearing from an oil issue before a thrown rod.
If it is a rod the higher probabilities are over rev, excessive heat or over boost.

or just too much torque for that particular moment on the rods
i threw one while in 3rd gear full throttle, with 85 C oil, less than 0.5 Bar boost and no knocks and racing fuel... high ignition advance timings while in boost producing too much torque/cylinder pressure

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by tomm.brz

or just too much torque for that particular moment on the rods
i threw one while in 3rd gear full throttle, with 85 C oil, less than 0.5 Bar boost and no knocks and racing fuel... high ignition advance timings while in boost producing too much torque/cylinder pressure

Yep that and maybe another half dozen or so possibilities in descending order of probability.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Yep. The current assumption is a thrown rod but it could be a spun bearing.


The probability of the oil causing a thrown rod exists but is very low on the likelihood scale (technical term). Would expect to see a spun bearing from an oil issue before a thrown rod.
If it is a rod the higher probabilities are over rev, excessive heat or over boost.

It just isn’t that thick, and unless he is in the mountains of Texas (are there any?), I doubt it would be so sluggish from viscosity alone to cause bearing starvation. This has been discussed ad nauseam, but the best reference was the 86 cup or something where the official oil was like a 60 weight. Granted, the engines were brought up to operating temperature, but I’m highly suspicious that viscosity starvation caused rod failure or bearing failure. I’d like to see what he finds upon disassembly.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

It just isn’t that thick, and unless he is in the mountains of Texas (are there any?), I doubt it would be so sluggish from viscosity alone to cause bearing starvation. This has been discussed ad nauseam, but the best reference was the 86 cup or something where the official oil was like a 60 weight. Granted, the engines were brought up to operating temperature, but I’m highly suspicious that viscosity starvation caused rod failure or bearing failure. I’d like to see what he finds upon disassembly.

Agreed. My wording wasn't clear that I don't think viscosity caused either just that bearing failure would be the more likely over a thrown rod if it was a factor.

[ls1ac]

All is conjecture until we see the autopsy report.

[86MLR]

I've seen a few engines lunch bearings from cold oil and load or high rpm.

Tolerances for the FA20 are pretty tight "I assume" due to being engineered for 0w20.

Dropping in a 10w40, and hitting the loud pedal when cold "may" cause lack of flow to the bearings, with lack of oil the bearing may have met metal to metal, causing it to seize and thus, oingo doingo, bad stuff...

Maybe...

This is why I drive like a nanna until my temp hits around 80-90°c, then, I drive it like I stole it.

So far this has worked for me the 30k km NA, and 5k km FI on my 86.

I've do this warm up before flogging on all my cars and bikes.

Well, so far anyways....

[Clash0901]

As others mentioned, a factory, used engine that you can just drop right in will be ideal for the "weekend DIYer" as you said. That means you don't have to mess with swapping over heads and such. You can sell your damaged engine for parts and recover probably around $500. Whatever you decide to do, invest in oil pressure and oil temp gauges.

[jRuN]

You guys are crushing my dreams of doing a built (forged rods, pistons, rod/main bearings, etc) and having a more reliable 500+ capable turbo build...

I was going to go with Revworks to do the build which is the shop that James Martin recommends.. and have him be the tuner. Sounded like a recipe for success to me.

Now you got me thinking I should just do a swap.. as if the fa20s just can't be put together in any way that's bullet proof .. like my darling 2JZ

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

[DarkPira7e]

Originally Posted by jRuN

You guys are crushing my dreams of doing a built (forged rods, pistons, rod/main bearings, etc) and having a more reliable 500+ capable turbo build...

I was going to go with Revworks to do the build which is the shop that James Martin recommends.. and have him be the tuner. Sounded like a recipe for success to me.

Now you got me thinking I should just do a swap.. as if the fa20s just can't be put together in any way that's bullet proof .. like my darling 2JZ

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

The reason the 2jz lasts at increased power levels is because nobody reports to an active forum when their build blows up.

Your stock motor could be reliable at 500+whp, if you never actuate the gas pedal and drive gently