Official Component Weights & Weight Reduction Thread

[BRZZZZZZZZZZ]

Originally Posted by supra2nv

how much do the stock diagonal strut bars weigh? the two hollow ones. thank you.

A lot. I changed mine for Raceseng ones and they are quite a bit lighter and look so much better too.

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by BRZZZZZZZZZZ

A lot. I changed mine for Raceseng ones and they are quite a bit lighter and look so much better too.

From http://www.raceseng.com/stiff-arm-20...r-s-subaru-brz:

"The Stiff Arms weigh .735 lbs while the stock arms weigh 1.043 lbs."

That's a weight savings of 30%.

[Food]

Originally Posted by Food

...so...who makes lightweight, fixed/non-sliding, aluminum seat brackets for the Twin??

Anyone? For Sparco Evo or Fighter.



Also...have brackets ever been made that "tilt/swing" the seat forward, that pivot from the front bolts/mounts, to maybe allow for easier rear passenger entrance? Or would the top of the seat and headrest hit the roof/ceiling while tilting/swinging forward lol? This would save weight as opposed to a sliding rail..but I'm aware "sliding" is also for fore-aft adjustability and not only just for rear passenger entrance. Just curious if they have ever been made.

[Food]

How much do Sparco sliding seat rails weigh?

[Yui-Chan]

Originally Posted by Food

How much do Sparco sliding seat rails weigh?

http://www.moddit.com/Guide/How+to+I...+Subaru+BRZ/68

Doesn't seem like much weight loss like people usually assume: -14lbs driver and -10lbs psngr weight savings = only(relatively) -24lbs total. I was expecting at least -20lbs per seat (40 total) like everyone else.

I know a lot of the weight will be due to the sliding rails...and idk how much those plastic Bride buckets weigh compared to similar plastic Recaro/Sparco buckets..but I bet they all won't be too far different in weight (unless going for the unaffordable CF versions)...so I think it's safe to assume that any brand bucket plastic version + sliding rail will be a whopping 30lbs each.

Irdk if spending that much money on aftermarket bucket seats primarily for weight saving would be worth it (you can save 25lbs with a $300-400 Shorai, 20lbs with a much more usable AP Sprint kit, 50lbs for free removing spare and rear seats, 10lbs for a $500 driveshaft, $500 for flywheel, etc, etc). That's like $2-3k for a measly 25lbs in weight savings for the seats. In this case, you'd be getting buckets more for looks (since the stock seats are already more than sufficient for holding you in a stock'ish and slow frs).

[supra2nv]

Originally Posted by dradernh

From http://www.raceseng.com/stiff-arm-20...r-s-subaru-brz:

"The Stiff Arms weigh .735 lbs while the stock arms weigh 1.043 lbs."

That's a weight savings of 30%.

I came here to update that I weight my stock ones finally haha....thanks for the info..i got 2.1lbs so it's in line with this reference. thank you.

[BRZ NA]

Any numbers for stock Hood/trunk compare with carbon fiber hood/trunk for weight reduction?

[MasterMech77]

BRZ NA,

I was wondering myself how much the stock hood vs aftermarket carbon hood weight.

OK after doing so extensive checking, I have found that the stock hood on the FRS is about 15 to 16 pounds. Then after looking at all the carbon hoods I am seeing that most of them come in at about 20 pounds (give or take a few pounds depending on how much is on the hood. Looks like if there is a good number of vents then the carbon hoods can be as heavy as 25 pounds.)

So what I am going to do is purchase a carbon fiber skin kit from the easy composites company out of the UK (http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/Default.aspx). I am going to get one of their kits to add a "decorative" layer of real carbon fiber on to my factory hood. I am going to use the vacuum pump system and force the resin in to the fiber so I have a very tough but thin layer of resin (looking to keep the weight down and still have it look nice. After looking everything over on their website and watching a butt ton of their do it yourself vids on youtube. I am happy to say that for about half the money I can get the carbon fiber hood with out the draw backs.)
I figured this way I get the same strong hood mountings from the factory. With the factory hood being a few pounds lighter then the full carbon fiber ones (and it is free) I can add the real carbon fiber on top of the aluminum hood without adding too much weight if I do it right and use the vacuum pump and not just brush on thick layer of the resin.
Hope this helps,
Jay F.

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by MasterMech77

I was wondering myself how much the stock hood vs aftermarket carbon hood weight.

OK after doing so extensive checking, I have found that the stock hood on the FRS is about 15 to 16 pounds. Then after looking at all the carbon hoods I am seeing that most of them come in at about 20 pounds (give or take a few pounds depending on how much is on the hood. Looks like if there is a good number of vents then the carbon hoods can be as heavy as 25 pounds.)

This is somewhat OT...

Carbon fiber parts are kind of like ceramic coatings - there are a number of creative approaches using the terms of interest, and then there's the real thing. Assuming pre-preg/dry CF is even available in the part you want, most drivers don't want to pay for it (including me). But the lack of weight...ooohhhh, mama! I've got a set of non-CF composite doors and hood/trunk lid (I think it's Kevlar, but don't really know for sure) - they're remarkably light, the kind of thing where you pick the piece up and go "Really, that's it!?!"

Most drivers don't know that you can have a part coated in a thick layer of ceramic that will do significantly more for heat retention than will paints with some(?) ceramic mixed into them. A serious heat-retaining ceramic coating will make the part heavier, though - not by much, but it's measurable (for example, Swaintech's coating added 3.125# to the downpipe-to-exhaust-tips on a tuned V70R I had).

[MasterMech77]

Well the $1800.00 dry carbon fiber hoods are a bit lighter, About 5 pounds lighter then the factory hood on the FRS. But for $1800, I can not justify 5 pounds of weight savings. That equates to about .5 HP gain over the grand scheme of things, for 1800 bucks I can add 100+ HP with a Turbo or Super Charger (not an off the shelf kit, but one that I built myself, since your paying the 5 or 6 thousand dollars for someone's hard work). So for about $300.00 I can add a thin layer of CF on to my own factory hood and get the best of both worlds. (the looks and function) without breaking the bank.

[Anthony]

I just realized you can save 5.125 pounds by removing the DI ECU mount and its counterpart from the other side of the engine:

[Doozer]

[QUOTE=Anthony;2020314]I just realized you can save 5.125 pounds by removing the DI ECU mount and its counterpart from the other side of the engine:

recommend you add another ground strap to your ECU after you do this.

Thanks for all your detail in this thread by the way, very big help.

[JRitt]

Hi Gents,
Here's another way to drop 26 lbs. off the nose of your car! Essex is now the exclusive importer and distributor of a great new lightweight battery solution, Aliant Ultralight Lithium Batteries. These batteries are manufactured in Italy and use lithium iron phosphate technology. They offer a wide range of benefits...huge weight savings, high cranking power, tiny footprint, 30 minute full recharge time, can be mounted in any position, not subject to fire, corrosion, etc. Pictures, specs, and frequently asked questions are all below, and feel free to check out our site for more details. You can also feel free to call us, PM me, or email me at any time. Thanks for looking.

The most appropriate model for BRZ/FR-S is the Aliant X4. The X4 weighs only 3.6 lbs., and is 5x3 inches, and you can mount it just about anywhere. You can read all about it on our site.
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1086x724.

Full Specs
Model
X4
Nominal voltage
13,2 V
Pb Equivalent Capacity
9.2 Ah
Pulse discharge current
480 A (10 s)
Cold crank amps CCA @ -20°C
400 A
Max. discharge current
280 A
Recommended charge current
12 A @ 77°F
Max. charge current
20 A @ 77°F
Life cycle
1000 cicli @ 100% D.o.d.
2000 cicli @ 80% D.o.d.
Life expectancy
up to 5-7 years
Charging voltage
14,4 V
Max. charging voltage
14,6 V
Weight
≈ 1.62 Kg or 3.6 lbs.
Dimensions [mm]
L 148mm x W 67 x H 140 or 5.82" x 2.63" x 5.51"
Ambient temperature
-22°F / +140°F [ operation and storage ]
Max. operational altitude
16,404 feet


How Do I Mount It?
We know that it can be tough to find an appropriate mounting solution for aftermarket batteries, so we came up with some awesome mounts of our own. We made them as light as possible, strong, versatile, attractive, and affordable. You can see full details on our site.

Essex Aliant X4 Battery Bottom Mount

Essex Aliant X4 Battery Side Mount

Mount Features:
Billet Aluminum Construction- 6061-T1 billet aluminum= strong, compact, and extremely lightweight
Anodized Coating- Black Type 2 anodizing ensures that your mount will look great at install, and for many years to come.
Compact Footprint- Every ounce of unnecessary material has been removed, leaving you with a mount that presents a small footprint and weighs next to nothing.
Secure Mounting- The aluminum retaining strap secures firmly to the base and is lined with a super-resilient, quick recovery foam lining to ensure the battery will not move around on the base.
Wide Array of Mounting Options- With over a dozen potential contact points, you will have no problem finding a hardware configuration to secure your mounting base to the vehicle. All hardware required to properly install your mount is included with the kit, as well as some extras, just in case.

Essex / Aliant Bottom Mount
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1200x800.
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1200x800.

Essex / Aliant Side Mount
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1200x800.

This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1200x800.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Please read the FAQ carefully, as it is very important to be aware of the Pro's and Con's of the technology in Aliant Batteries. Even a premium product such as this can disappoint an owner if the technology isn't used properly. Even though Aliant lithium batteries are made with best-in-class materials, contain UL certified cells, and are based on safe Lithium Iron Phosphate chemistry, that does not mean that they can be misused, abused, or shorted.

• Is it necessary to modify the vehicle in order to install this type of battery?
No, the Aliant battery is perfectly adapted to directly replace the current vehicle battery - either a lead battery, an AGM battery or any other lithium battery.
________________________________________
• What happens when the Aliant battery is completely discharged?
It depends how much it has been discharged: if the voltage is well above 8 Volts, it is sufficient to use the Aliant battery charger to fully recharge the battery. If the voltage is below 8Volts, then it is better to NOT try recharging the battery as it could be irreparably damaged. While recharging, the cells inside can overheat, and this can be dangerous.
________________________________________
• Do I need to do anything with the battery while my car is sitting idle?
The battery should be disconnected from your vehicle when it is not in use (it is also possible to disconnect a cable or to install a master switch for the battery / isolator). In fact, if the battery is not disconnected from the electrical circuit of the vehicle, its life cycle will reduce considerably due to current drain from the vehicle's electrical circuit. You shouldn't forget that a vehicle is never completely turned off. Even though battery maintenance is not necessary, it is IMPORTANT to disconnect the vehicle cables from the battery terminals. Otherwise the lithium battery will be TOTALLY DISCHARGED in 3-4 weeks.
________________________________________
• How does an Aliant battery perform?
Our batteries offer superior performance to the traditional lead batteries you are replacing, i.e. the motor will start faster and in a more reliable way. In practice, the cold crank amp current (CCA) of an Aliant battery is always higher than the equivalent value of the battery you are replacing, so you shouldn't expect any problems starting your car.
________________________________________
• Can I leave my car in the garage for the entire season and then hope it will start on first attempt?
We cannot guarantee that it will happen this way! We can, however, assert that there are two factors that give lithium batteries an edge in this area compared to lead batteries: Limited self-discharge - the value of self-discharge is less than 0,3% per day, so a fully charged battery has up to 11 months autonomy if disconnected from the electrical circuit. A lithium battery also has better reaction to temperature vs. lead acid. However, a compatible maintainer is always recommended to protect your lithium battery.
________________________________________
• Why is the Ah performance for Aliant batteries lower than the lead batteries being replaced?
The lithium technology we use is able to produce more current with less material compared to the chemical reaction of lead acid, thus the same cold crank amp current can be reached with less ampere per hour (Ah) - and the battery is smaller and lighter.
________________________________________
• Is it possible to install the battery on one side of the vehicle?
Because they do not contain any liquids, Aliant batteries can be installed in any position - even upside down. However, it is recommended to keep the battery away from exhaust and from other sources of high temperature in order to avoid overheating. Furthermore, ALIANT battery housings are of plastic material - comparable to those of traditional batteries - so the direct contact with metal parts that might reach temperatures of > 248°F can cause problems
________________________________________
• How can I order a battery with inverted polarity - positive terminal on the right side?
All Aliant batteries have the positive terminal on the left side and it is not possible to order products with a different configuration. But this does NOT represent a limitation - the compact form and the reduced dimensions allow to install the battery turning it by 180° so that the positive terminal will be on the required side and the battery can be correctly connected to the electrical circuit of your vehicle.
________________________________________
• Can I use any ordinary battery charger?
Generally speaking NO . Always check compatible chargers and maintainers on our website.
________________________________________
• Do I need a battery maintainer for the winter period or for longer idle times?
If you disconnect the cables of your car, you do not need it. If you keep connected then YES use a maintainer.
________________________________________
• Do lithium batteries work similarly to traditional batteries at low temperatures?
If "low temperature" is intended as ambient temperature, i.e. temperatures of 32°F or above, there is no problem. If "low temperature" is referred to temperatures between -22°F and 32°F, you need to consider the following: MOST BATTERIES - lithium, lead, gel,... - are temperature sensitive and an important reduction of the starting capacity occurs at low temperatures. ALIANT batteries are not an exception: during a start operation in the winter we recommend to check if the battery is in good condition and at least partially charged (>75%). Start the electrical system of the vehicle and leave the dimmed headlights on for 2-3 minutes to let the battery partially heat up, then try to start the motor.
________________________________________
• What is the proper way to dispose of these batteries?
Regulations vary from country to country and state to state. Even though ALIANT batteries comply with the restrictive RoHS regulations, they are nevertheless still batteries. We recommend that you take your used up Aliant battery to your nearest battery collection and disposal center.

[pepe]

Hello! be nice photo of this battery in our car.
Photographs you have installed in the car?