Ottawa FR-S

[brilthor]

For anyone who is interested this is the path we drove, buckshot rd was surprisingly good.

https://www.google.ca/maps/dir/44.79...m0!1m0!1m0!3e0

[brilthor]

Originally Posted by roddy

If you're up for it some time, I'd like to do it again, but start a little more west. The 509 is a great road, but I find it flows better going from West to East, rather than starting at Sharbot Lake. The town of Tweed is about 45 mins West of Sharbot Lake, and has a Timmies for a meet 'n greet. That would set us up for a Flinton Rd run on the way up to the 506/509. Flinton Rd is similar to the 509 as far as width and pavement condition goes. It probably has as many curves as well, but not as many really sharp ones, and less elevation changes. If you like sharp curves and elevation changes, I suggest Desert Lake Rd at the town of Verona (about an hour South of Sharbot Lake).

I'm pretty much always up for a drive, new roads are always fun too.

[brilthor]

Originally Posted by Ft86Chris

I would absolutely be up for it, would be cool to see some other roads once they start to clear up.

I only have 10-11k on the car, and im already needing rear tires, last ones have a little life left, but not much.

Wondering if just rotating front to back will do, or if I should just replace the rear tires, I'll have to ask Slick

Unless the rears are in really bad shape it's definitely worth doing.

[roddy]

Originally Posted by brilthor

For anyone who is interested this is the path we drove, buckshot rd was surprisingly good.

https://www.google.ca/maps/dir/44.79...m0!1m0!1m0!3e0

Thanks. I've been by that road many times, but was always afraid it was going to be one of those roads that turned to gravel 1/2 way through. I'll have to check it out this year.

[roddy]

Originally Posted by brilthor

Unless the rears are in really bad shape it's definitely worth doing.

+1... I rotate mine at every oil change (every 5,000kms for me). On rear drive cars that don't have directional or staggered tires, I cross the front tires to the rear (LF goes to RR and RF goes to LR), and the rears straight ahead to the front. Going straight front to back won't hurt either.

[normancw]

Picked up my car from @Slick

I'm all set for tracking - he installed:
- FT86 Speed Factory splitter with race upgrade
- Driveway Labs Type 1 diffuser
- OEM oil cooler (connected to throttle body coolant flow)
- snorkel mod
- OpenFlash Header with titanium wrap
- Moroso oil pan baffle
- Fumuto QwikValve
- rear Ferodo brake pads
- Amsoil 5w30 Signature Series oil
- Brake flush using Castrol SRF brake fluid

Flashed to the OFT UEL stage 2 tune for 93 octane. Car feels and sounds great - my butt dyno tells me the torque dip greatly reduced! I can't wait to get to the track to see the difference the splitter and diffuser make.

I can't recommend @Slick enough - his attention to detail and the care he takes with his customers' cars far exceed anything I've experienced at all the shops I've used in 30 years of owning cars!

[AznKirby]

@normancw
That's one hell of a list!

I'm curious - why 5w30?

[normancw]

Originally Posted by AznKirby

@normancw
That's one hell of a list!

I'm curious - why 5w30?

I've read that at high oil temps at the track (above 240º F), oil pressure can get dangerously low with 0w20. Many people that track use 5w30 and 10w30.

[Slick]

Originally Posted by normancw

Picked up my car from @Slick

I'm all set for tracking - he installed:
- FT86 Speed Factory splitter with race upgrade
- Driveway Labs Type 1 diffuser
- OEM oil cooler (connected to throttle body coolant flow)
- snorkel mod
- OpenFlash Header with titanium wrap
- Moroso oil pan baffle
- Fumuto QwikValve
- rear Ferodo brake pads
- Amsoil 5w30 Signature Series oil
- Brake flush using Castrol SRF brake fluid

Flashed to the OFT UEL stage 2 tune for 93 octane. Car feels and sounds great - my butt dyno tells me the torque dip greatly reduced! I can't wait to get to the track to see the difference the splitter and diffuser make.

I can't recommend @Slick enough - his attention to detail and the care he takes with his customers' cars far exceed anything I've experienced at all the shops I've used in 30 years of owning cars!

Thanks Norm.
Here are a few pics:

[jvincent]

Originally Posted by normancw

I've read that at high oil temps at the track (above 240º F), oil pressure can get dangerously low with 0w20. Many people that track use 5w30 and 10w30.

I've read the same thing, the Element Tuning thread is especially good for this info.

The thing that is preventing me from running 5W30 is that the extra viscosity means it heats up faster than 0W20. So, now you have a situation where the 5W30 oil is hotter than the 0W20 and the viscosity may degrade to the same point.

Since the behaviour is oil brand specific it's hard to know which is better. Either way, the oil cooler should help things out.

[KingGeo]

Originally Posted by Slick

Thanks Norm.
Here are a few pics:

OMG!
thats hot!

[HeadBanger]

Does anybody Happen to have a stock shift boot for a manual laying around? I'd like to make my own and it would be convenient to get measurements before ripping my car part lol

[brilthor]

Originally Posted by HeadBanger

Does anybody Happen to have a stock shift boot for a manual laying around? I'd like to make my own and it would be convenient to get measurements before ripping my car part lol

Not what you asked, however: The shift boot comes off very easily, you can take it off to make your measurements without any tools and without removing any other parts.

[Ft86Chris]

Car looks great Norm!

Would love to hear what kind of difference it will make on the track!