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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for!


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Old 11-01-2017, 10:30 AM   #29
stevesnj
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Clean DRY lug nut and stud threads tightened by hand, no impact gun should be used for removal or tightening. Debris, grease, oil, etc. in the lug not and/or the stud WILL affect torque values. The stock rim value is 89 not 90. Could 1ft pound make a difference? Who knows. I use a battery terminal brush and it works fine.

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Old 11-01-2017, 10:54 AM   #30
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Thanks for the info man! Glad to hear the Muteki's are still working for you. I think I might try the 949's though since I no longer have a full set of Muteki's and I don't think you can buy singles.

And ARP does have 3 different lengths for studs now. I might just go with the longest ones so I have flexibility to run spacers if needed in the future.
Best make sure the longer studs are SSC legal
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Old 11-01-2017, 11:28 AM   #31
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Best make sure the longer studs are SSC legal
They are

"Wheel lug studs (e.g., length) and lug nuts may be changed."
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Old 11-01-2017, 12:20 PM   #32
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We'll have to disagree, I think, but 200 ft-lbs *is* a hulk smash setting. My 1/2" Dewalt won't drive them to final torque, and that's a good thing in my book. We aren't doing green flag pitstops, so the extra 1 minute that using a breaker bar takes can't be the end of the world.
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Old 11-01-2017, 01:26 PM   #33
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How does anybody feel about using ARP's studs meant for the Evo, since they're 12x1.5 thread instead of 12.1.25? Would they be tougher?

They are super long, though. They're almost 1/2" longer than the long FR-S studs.

Studs: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-7717

Specs from the catalog, for comparison:
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Old 11-01-2017, 01:51 PM   #34
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How does anybody feel about using ARP's studs meant for the Evo, since they're 12x1.5 thread instead of 12.1.25? Would they be tougher?

They are super long, though. They're almost 1/2" longer than the long FR-S studs.

Studs: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-7717

Specs from the catalog, for comparison:
They are all rated at 190,000 psi tensile strength, so I'm going to go out on a limb and say, it won't make a bit of difference.

And if they are even longer, that means more threads and more opportunity for you to mess up threads when putting the wheel on.

I'd say stick with the 12x1.25.
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Old 11-01-2017, 02:05 PM   #35
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How does anybody feel about using ARP's studs meant for the Evo, since they're 12x1.5 thread instead of 12.1.25? Would they be tougher?
Fine thread fasteners are actually stronger than course thread of the same diameter. They can hold more tension without stripping because they have more thread surface area, and they have greater shear strength because the actual diameter of the bolt is larger (the threads are shallower).
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Old 11-01-2017, 02:20 PM   #36
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Fine thread fasteners are actually stronger than course thread of the same diameter. They can hold more tension without stripping because they have more thread surface area, and they have greater shear strength because the actual diameter of the bolt is larger (the threads are shallower).
I thought our issue wasn't that the lugs shear off, but that the threads get worn out or cross-threaded. It seems like the coarser threads would help with that problem.
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Old 11-01-2017, 02:33 PM   #37
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I thought our issue wasn't that the lugs shear off, but that the threads get worn out or cross-threaded. It seems like the coarser threads would help with that problem.
I suppose coarse thread might help if there was a contamination issue, but you're still less likely to strip or cross thread a lug with fine thread. There are more threads, so each individual thread sees less stress, and they're shallower and thus less likely to roll over.

I know it seems counterintuitive because smaller threads seem more fragile, but that's not the case.
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Old 11-01-2017, 03:42 PM   #38
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I suppose coarse thread might help if there was a contamination issue, but you're still less likely to strip or cross thread a lug with fine thread. There are more threads, so each individual thread sees less stress, and they're shallower and thus less likely to roll over.

I know it seems counterintuitive because smaller threads seem more fragile, but that's not the case.
Thanks!
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Old 11-01-2017, 04:11 PM   #39
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I thought our issue wasn't that the lugs shear off, but that the threads get worn out or cross-threaded. It seems like the coarser threads would help with that problem.
Are you buzzing them on with an impact, and not had starting?

What lugs?

Seems to me, cross threading is an install issue vs a parts issue(unless you have shitty parts).
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Old 11-01-2017, 05:58 PM   #40
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I use anti-seize, never snapped a lug after that. Knock on wood.
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Old 11-01-2017, 09:38 PM   #41
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I use anti-seize, never snapped a lug after that. Knock on wood.
Worst thing to use is anti seize.
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Old 11-02-2017, 09:31 AM   #42
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Worst thing to use is anti seize.
Well it fits his username

JK DaWorst
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