30,000 mile service (aka dealer trying to bend me over)

[JesseE]

Originally Posted by Erci

Actually I have.. 113k to be exact, and while the color has changed, its chemical qualities were still within spec. There is a simple, cheap HP test which shows if it's still good or not. Much like the oil, which dealers tell us to replace at 3k miles.. and has been proven by chemical lab testing to still be perfectly good after as much as 15k miles.
Color means absolutely nothing.

I have seen too many engines apart with old coolant that was suppose to last 100k+ and the internals of the engine have powdery white deposits all over them, enough that it can clog most/entire coolant passages. which will cause overheating and pre detonation. We had a car in my shop just 2 months ago, less than 60k on the odometer had a cracked block because coolant passages were clogged up so bad from never changing the coolant


Same with oils, I have seen sooooo many Toyota and other engines that go by the "10000+" intervals have horrible sludge at low miles... do what you want, but my internals will be spotless and pretty while people who want to "Save" money will be buying new engines down the road and be spending way more $$$$

[Erci]

Originally Posted by JesseE

I have seen too many engines apart with old coolant that was suppose to last 100k+ and the internals of the engine have powdery white deposits all over them, enough that it can clog most/entire coolant passages. which will cause overheating and pre detonation. We had a car in my shop just 2 months ago, less than 60k on the odometer had a cracked block because coolant passages were clogged up so bad from never changing the coolant


Same with oils, I have seen sooooo many Toyota and other engines that go by the "10000+" intervals have horrible sludge at low miles... do what you want, but my internals will be spotless and pretty while people who want to "Save" money will be buying new engines down the road and be spending way more $$$$

That's fair. Certainly no one will tell you you're hurting anything by potentially changing fluids prematurely.

[Dark]

Originally Posted by husker741

You would shit yourself if you saw how much a 90k mile service cost for Toyota's and Lexus.

Lexus dealer asked me for $700 to change 6 spark plugs. Ended up doing it myself, $112. Took 3 hours though since I don't have enough tool to take everything out of the way.

[sluflyer06]

Originally Posted by Erci

But why? The manual says 11 years / 137k miles

I would do coolant, trans, diff at 30, brake every 2y or 15k unless you track it.

I'm dumping everything at 1k, got a couple hundred miles to go. Then engine every 5 most likely. I'm all for proactive maintenance just that people should either do it them self or pay a reasonable price.

[Blackforge]

LOL... they have their scam automated. An automatic email was sent with a $75 off $500+ coupon for "Declined Services". If that doesn't say "we jack up our prices", I don't know what does.

Too late have a low profile jack & jack stands now. Fumoto Valve ordered and ordered a Motul 300 changeover kit. Whee?

[gramicci101]

When you change your diff fluid, the magnet on the drain plug will be COATED in black gunk. Clean it off, then run the plug all the way back in and out a few times and it'll pick up more.

F1point4 has written some awesome DIY guides with torque values and pictures and whatnot. He's got them listed in his build thread: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8295

The washers on the transmission drain and fill plugs are gaskets, not crush washers. You can flip them and reuse them. The washers on the diff drain and fill plugs are crush washers and need to be replaced. The transmission fluid will shoot out sideways at first. I cut the side out of a soda bottle to catch the fluid and redirect it to the drain pan.

While you're under there you may as well do the transmission mount insert bushing, rear shifter bushing, and diff collar insert bushings. They're cheap and make a huge difference. And MTEC springs.

[dreroc-z]

$289.90 to clean your throttle body...really? I think they expect people not to know what that is because that price is ridiculous. Save yourself the money. Love or hate the guy this video shows you exactly what they're going to do [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQpPcdvSBks"]How To Fix A Car That Idles Poorly - YouTube[/ame]

[slizoth]

Originally Posted by N1rve

Throttle bottle cleaning...now THIS IS THE BIGGEST SCAM EVER LOL. All they do is pour in a bottle of fuel injector cleaner and spray your throttle body with some sort of cleaner. That's it. You SHOULDN'T ever need to do this.

Honestly that's all I was going to do, it's $25 and about 15min for me to clean the MAF and Throttle Body and get enough fuel injector cleaner to last four tanks.

I've got a rudimentary mechanic education, mostly just DIY for fun / hobbies. Since I've never actually looked at these on my car and I've been in the BRZ for over six years I figured I should take a glance and spray while Im at it.

[slizoth]

Originally Posted by JesseE

putting that stuff in the gas tank is NOT enough you need to have a machine that does it properly.
.
You are also not allowed to spray any cleaners on electric throttle bodies. you can/will ruin them. I see it all the time when people spray carb clean on mafs or electronic TB they fry em up and then you have to go spend a bunch of money replaced a part that just needed a cleaning.

From my experience with motorcycles and bicycles yes, you get a much better clean disassembling and cleaning the parts and putting them back on the vehicle vs 'spray and pray'. That said, it's way more work and requires expensive tools, I'm not willing to do that every 15k miles, every 90k though...