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Mechanical Maintenance (Oil, Fluids, Break-In, Servicing) Everything related to the mechanical maintenance of the FR-S and BRZ |
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03-21-2018, 10:48 PM | #1 |
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bad driveline vibration when accelerating at low RPM
I recently replaced my throw-out bearing after the factory one had failed which involved removing the drive shaft and dropping the transmission. I replaced the trans oil at the same time.
After the work I am getting a severe vibration when accelerating at low RPM when the engine gets bogged. This is the only time the vibration is present but it is very severe. I know TOB's are a common job, has anyone encountered this before? Not excited to drop the trans again without knowing exactly what I'm looking for. I'm assuming something with the clutch or the DS carrier bearing but really don't know. Thanks |
03-22-2018, 12:14 AM | #3 |
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Chances are something is not torqued down properly.
Could be tranny mounts, drive shaft, who knows. It's one of those things where you just need to put a wrench and feel what's loose.
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03-22-2018, 12:43 AM | #4 | |
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So, you didn't have this vibration before you replaced the TOB .. ?? Did you take off the pressure plate and or replace the clutch disk .. ?? Did you do the work or did someone else do the work .. ?? Come back. humfrz |
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03-23-2018, 08:27 PM | #5 | |||
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I did the work. I marked the DS alignment to the differential so it went back on the same way, but the front yoke may have gone into the transmission with a different orientation. It may be a few weeks before I can put it back in the air and investigate, so I just wondered if anyone had some different ideas. I don't think it's a balance issue because it does not increase in intensity with RPM. and if it were a harmonic resonance it would occur at the same RPM during all operating conditions. The fact that it is only in a certain RPM and only a certain operating condition (under load) makes me think it is probably something mounted too rigidly or not rigidly enough. Checking all the bolts is probably to best way to figure it out, but if anyone has another idea I would love to hear it. Thanks |
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03-23-2018, 08:53 PM | #6 |
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I'll summon ol @Ultramaroon ...... one of out transmission experts, to see if he has any input.
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03-23-2018, 09:19 PM | #7 | |
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I have a similar issue when I lug the engine between 1k and 2.2k as well as when I'm engine braking from 2.6k down to 2k. However, I changed my clutch and flywheel plus added a transmission bushing. I'll keep an eye on on this thread too. |
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03-23-2018, 10:07 PM | #8 |
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Do you hear it, feel it, or both?
How did you support the engine?
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03-25-2018, 08:20 AM | #9 |
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03-25-2018, 10:19 AM | #10 |
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Dont assume its driveline. Low RPM vibrations are often an indication of an engine problem.
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03-25-2018, 01:58 PM | #11 | |
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Just a couple ideas. Try to record it for us. It might help.
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03-26-2018, 11:00 AM | #12 | |
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I didn't remove the front aluminum undertray/shield so the engine may have had some minimal support during tbe process. |
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03-26-2018, 01:03 PM | #13 |
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When I did my TOB I didn't support the front on the way off and spent almost 2 hours trying to get it off the lower studs. It wasn't until I said fuck it and pushed the jack aside and man handled it (not a good idea) that it came off. Once it was finally off I realized how far forward the engine tips which explained my difficulty getting it off. I supported the engine before putting it back on and WOW what a difference. I jacked it up enough and get it on the lower studs and then a single gentle push of the jack and the thing went right on. I could kick myself in the ass for skipping the front engine support.
Anyways, I feel sorry for anyone who does that job without jacking the front of the engine. |
03-26-2018, 01:17 PM | #14 |
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After I get the back of the transmission separated, I wrap around the front of the engine and tie to the tower braces with a big fucking strap.
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