DIY Sub-woofer Installation

[chris's fr-s]

can someone make this a post(embeded) and not a hyperlink?

http://frsdiy.blogspot.com/2012/11/diy-sub-woofer.html

[nix]

Doesn't look like iframe is enabled on this forum so I can't embed it. You will need to copy paste the text, clean it up a bit and then use this code to add the pictures:

[IMG]image url here[/IMG]

[chris's fr-s]

Originally Posted by nix

Doesn't look like iframe is enabled on this forum so I can't embed it. You will need to copy paste the text, clean it up a bit and then use this code to add the pictures:

[IMG]image url here[/IMG]

ya probably not tonight after i spent 6 hours writing the diy ill do it tommorrow
lol

[2point0]

FYI - you went from "remove battery brace" to "remove positive terminal." Pretty sure you meant to put "remove negative cable" in there somewhere.

I'm just mad that the BRZ stereo has no pre-outs. Dunno why I was surprised...

[midnightfrolic]

I installed my fully loaded sub box with your DIY guide. Thank you so much dude!



I got the 11PECVR12 + 8 gauge wire kit from KICKER, which has the amp and subwoofer inside one box. Pretty slick box.

I ran the +12V on the passenger side, the remote wire + audio wires along the center console on the passenger side, and the bass controller wire along the center console on the driver side. Sounds amazing! I installed the bass remote next to my right knee to hide it next to the driver seat for a cleaner and more inconspicuous look.

The toughest part, I thought, was running the +12V wire through that dang grommet!!! GRRRRRRrrrr. Took forever to get it through cleanly. It was SOOO dang tight that I had to pry it with a screwdriver and 30mins. I even pulled it out completely! I didn't get the T-wire splitter though. I just opened up the remote brown wire and attached the remote wire for the sub and closed it up with electrical tape. Everything else was cake, even for my first time doing it. Works like a charm. There are no wires showing at all, except inside the trunk, which rarely gets opened.

You can tuck the power +12V wire behind the molding in the rear and then under the rear passenger seat for a cleaner look. You wouldn't have the wire sticking out a bit as it goes under the rear seat. The video below includes how to remove the rear seat, and just about everything else.

OEM+ audio kit installation video

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LytAyXbgS5w"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LytAyXbgS5w[/ame]



KICKER SUB info below. Not the best place for price, but good info on the box I got with pics.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...11PECVR12.html

[chuyjr85]

Originally Posted by midnightfrolic

I installed my fully loaded sub box with your DIY guide. Thank you so much dude!



I got the 11PECVR12 + 8 gauge wire kit from KICKER, which has the amp and subwoofer inside one box. Pretty slick box.

I ran the +12V on the passenger side, the remote wire + audio wires along the center console on the passenger side, and the bass controller wire along the center console on the driver side. Sounds amazing! I installed the bass remote next to my right knee to hide it next to the driver seat for a cleaner and more inconspicuous look.

The toughest part, I thought, was running the +12V wire through that dang grommet!!! GRRRRRRrrrr. Took forever to get it through cleanly. It was SOOO dang tight that I had to pry it with a screwdriver and 30mins. I even pulled it out completely! I didn't get the T-wire splitter though. I just opened up the remote brown wire and attached the remote wire for the sub and closed it up with electrical tape. Everything else was cake, even for my first time doing it. Works like a charm. There are no wires showing at all, except inside the trunk, which rarely gets opened.

You can tuck the power +12V wire behind the molding in the rear and then under the rear passenger seat for a cleaner look. You wouldn't have the wire sticking out a bit as it goes under the rear seat. The video below includes how to remove the rear seat, and just about everything else.

OEM+ audio kit installation video

KICKER SUB info below. Not the best place for price, but good info on the box I got with pics.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...11PECVR12.html

Where can i get one of those sub boxes from the video?

[midnightfrolic]

Originally Posted by chuyjr85

Where can i get one of those sub boxes from the video?

Here you go my friend. It comes in a package as far as i know. Search the audio forums on here. Someone was making just the custom sub box for a fair price.

http://oemaudioplus.com/mobile/

[chuyjr85]

Originally Posted by midnightfrolic

Here you go my friend. It comes in a package as far as i know. Search the audio forums on here. Someone was making just the custom sub box for a fair price.

http://oemaudioplus.com/mobile/

Thanks for the link but wooo thats a lil pricey. Clean setup, but pricey.

[eurominican]

Any tips on how to reinstall that stupid grommet? Can't figure out how to put it back!!

Originally Posted by midnightfrolic

I installed my fully loaded sub box with your DIY guide. Thank you so much dude!



I got the 11PECVR12 + 8 gauge wire kit from KICKER, which has the amp and subwoofer inside one box. Pretty slick box.

I ran the +12V on the passenger side, the remote wire + audio wires along the center console on the passenger side, and the bass controller wire along the center console on the driver side. Sounds amazing! I installed the bass remote next to my right knee to hide it next to the driver seat for a cleaner and more inconspicuous look.

The toughest part, I thought, was running the +12V wire through that dang grommet!!! GRRRRRRrrrr. Took forever to get it through cleanly. It was SOOO dang tight that I had to pry it with a screwdriver and 30mins. I even pulled it out completely! I didn't get the T-wire splitter though. I just opened up the remote brown wire and attached the remote wire for the sub and closed it up with electrical tape. Everything else was cake, even for my first time doing it. Works like a charm. There are no wires showing at all, except inside the trunk, which rarely gets opened.

You can tuck the power +12V wire behind the molding in the rear and then under the rear passenger seat for a cleaner look. You wouldn't have the wire sticking out a bit as it goes under the rear seat. The video below includes how to remove the rear seat, and just about everything else.

OEM+ audio kit installation video

KICKER SUB info below. Not the best place for price, but good info on the box I got with pics.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...11PECVR12.html

[Hawker271]

Does anyone know if a line out converter is necessary for hooking up to a stock head unit?

[CatDaddysBBQ]

Originally Posted by Hawker271

Does anyone know if a line out converter is necessary for hooking up to a stock head unit?

There are a few versions of head units that came stock, but probably not. Most of them have a sub output already. I did have to tap into a wire (brown I think - not positive it was 3.x years ago) to get the on/off remote function to work with my amplifier to turn it on/off with the head unit, but otherwise it was plug and play.

[KnightRyderx2]

Originally Posted by Hawker271

Does anyone know if a line out converter is necessary for hooking up to a stock head unit?

As far as I know only the BeSpoke decks came with rear RCAs for external amps. The Pioneers didnt. This link will show you them, page 48.

If you dont have that deck its not to difficult to just take the deck out and look if you have some RCAs on the rear of the deck.

If you dont have any RCAs back there and you need a line converter or your amp has line in, you can make all your connections at the oem amp in the trunk. Easier then having to take apart your car to run all your lines to the rear speakers. There is multiple DIYs on the internet for our cars to do this and I believe there is a DIY on here. With this method, depending on your setup you can have it going in just over an hour.

I made all my line out and remote turn-on at the OEM amp. The only wire that goes somewhere other then the trunk is amp power run to the battery.

[whjdm069]

Originally Posted by KnightRyderx2

As far as I know only the BeSpoke decks came with rear RCAs for external amps. The Pioneers didnt. This link will show you them, page 48.

If you dont have that deck its not to difficult to just take the deck out and look if you have some RCAs on the rear of the deck.

If you dont have any RCAs back there and you need a line converter or your amp has line in, you can make all your connections at the oem amp in the trunk. Easier then having to take apart your car to run all your lines to the rear speakers. There is multiple DIYs on the internet for our cars to do this and I believe there is a DIY on here. With this method, depending on your setup you can have it going in just over an hour.

I made all my line out and remote turn-on at the OEM amp. The only wire that goes somewhere other then the trunk is amp power run to the battery.

That's exactly what I did. Very easy to do.

[Hawker271]

Originally Posted by KnightRyderx2

As far as I know only the BeSpoke decks came with rear RCAs for external amps. The Pioneers didnt. This link will show you them, page 48.

If you dont have that deck its not to difficult to just take the deck out and look if you have some RCAs on the rear of the deck.

If you dont have any RCAs back there and you need a line converter or your amp has line in, you can make all your connections at the oem amp in the trunk. Easier then having to take apart your car to run all your lines to the rear speakers. There is multiple DIYs on the internet for our cars to do this and I believe there is a DIY on here. With this method, depending on your setup you can have it going in just over an hour.

I made all my line out and remote turn-on at the OEM amp. The only wire that goes somewhere other then the trunk is amp power run to the battery.

Thanks for the reply. My head unit is the most basic pioneer without the touch screen. I've been told my multiple shops that it would be necessary?