Jackson Racing Supercharger Owners Thread

[CSG Mike]

@milanojess there should have been instructions specific to the oil cooler installation, but it does assume you already have the SC installed.

As always, don't hesitate to reach out if you need support.

[milanojess]

hey Mike, yes there was separate manual assuming pre-existing installation of JRSC.

What I tried to point out is that it would be nice to have install instructions where cooler and SC kit are installed at same time, save some guesses

it's more of a wishlist for the next person in line doing the installs

[ozone42]

Originally Posted by ozone42

Confirmed the bypass valve is not closing. Have one of the alternative aluminum ones mentioned earlier on in the thread enroute.

new bypass valve is on... and everything is fixed.

This is the one I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

No idea if the spring is similar, but it does work and solved my wonkiness and leak. Back to having a single woosh when it activates vs the weird sputter/cough I was having.

[ozone42]

Originally Posted by milanojess

Question:

1. Do all of you with FI still drop the car off at dealer for maintenances and oil changes? do they make your life difficult seeing after market stuff?

2. Is CARB sticker required in the engine bay? What would be the preferred location for it? or can I just keep it in the glove compartment with registration?

I'm in Austin, TX. We have emissions testing, and they hook up to the computer to check things. Got inspected a month after putting it on, passed with flying colors. Don't have the carb sticker on, but do have it in the glove box just in case (they didn't ask.)

This particular inspection place has given me hell before trying to get a salvaged 1996 f150 to pass.

[mrg666]

Originally Posted by ozone42

new bypass valve is on... and everything is fixed.

This is the one I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

No idea if the spring is similar, but it does work and solved my wonkiness and leak. Back to having a single woosh when it activates vs the weird sputter/cough I was having.

For the record, RKX diverter valve also works. I am using it now instead of the plastic I have received with the kit. I have installed with the red spring which is good up to 17psi.

[mrg666]

Installed a Cusco catch can and an STI PCV valve. I have installed the STI PCV valve on the intake manifold hose in place of the plastic check valve that came with the JRSC kit which was soaked in oil and leaking air out from the intake manifold. I left the stock PCV valve in place. Hopefully no more oil will be blowing into the intake manifold anymore.

[keithr]

Quick question — how often are you finding that you need to add oil to the rotrex reservoir? I can’t locate any visible leaks but it seems like every time I check the oil after a couple months it’s at the “min” mark.

[mrg666]

I check about once a month and never needed to add Rotrex traction fluid in the last four-
five months.

[keithr]

Originally Posted by mrg666

I check about once a month and never needed to add Rotrex traction fluid in the last four-
five months.

I’m at about 20,000 miles and right at 2 years with the current rotrex. My first one failed. I just bought the stuff to change the rotrex oil, but I’m driving to San Diego tomorrow so I was checking fluids today. I just topped it off not that long ago and I was at “min” again today. I was surprised to learn that the thing loses oil in the first place, but this seems like a lot. I have looked every line over multiple times and I can’t find any evidence of a leak but I don’t know where this oil is going. The rotrex fluid ain’t exactly cheap.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by keithr

I’m at about 20,000 miles and right at 2 years with the current rotrex. My first one failed. I just bought the stuff to change the rotrex oil, but I’m driving to San Diego tomorrow so I was checking fluids today. I just topped it off not that long ago and I was at “min” again today. I was surprised to learn that the thing loses oil in the first place, but this seems like a lot. I have looked every line over multiple times and I can’t find any evidence of a leak but I don’t know where this oil is going. The rotrex fluid ain’t exactly cheap.

You do lose a little bit to evaporation; you're out in Arizona so it's more possible for you than for others.

Also remember that the fluid is highly temperature sensitive, and expands quite a bit when hot, so over-filling can result in overflowing out the reservoir.

The reservoir is not sealed; it is intentional, so the fluid can expand and contract.

[keithr]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

You do lose a little bit to evaporation; you're out in Arizona so it's more possible for you than for others.



Also remember that the fluid is highly temperature sensitive, and expands quite a bit when hot, so over-filling can result in overflowing out the reservoir.



The reservoir is not sealed; it is intentional, so the fluid can expand and contract.

I understand... it’s a bit disconcerting to always find it at “min” though and I’m not sure how often I’m going to have to keep adding oil to keep it in the middle of the range.

[SoCalArgento]

Originally Posted by keithr

I understand... it’s a bit disconcerting to always find it at “min” though and I’m not sure how often I’m going to have to keep adding oil to keep it in the middle of the range.

Does it keep going down to “minimum” even when you look at it right after driving when temps are hot?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[keithr]

Originally Posted by SoCalArgento

Does it keep going down to “minimum” even when you look at it right after driving when temps are hot?

Yep... I follow the procedure by the book. Full operating temp after driving, hold rpm at 2000-2500 for one minute, back to idle and check the level.

[gtengr]

Have you checked the rotrex oil cooling system? I don't know how exposed that stuff is but maybe something kicked up and made a pin hole in the radiator or something.