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05-06-2013, 09:30 PM | #15 |
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If you pulled off the moister barrier you should cover the whole door. The Dynamat will then act as a replacement barrier.
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05-06-2013, 09:41 PM | #16 |
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Yeah photo doesn't show I finished product.
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05-06-2013, 09:46 PM | #17 |
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05-06-2013, 11:15 PM | #18 |
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Here is the near-finished product on the passenger side. I sealed the open holes with pieces of a "For Rent" sign and some duct tape and then some additional application of CLD (FTMAT).
I really like the way the 6.5" speaker sounds now with the holes sealed. I also really like the sound of how the door shuts. With the driver side undone and the passenger as it is right now, I can really tell and hear the difference. I think I should probably try to put a layer of Dynaliner (CCF) in between the inner skin and the door card. For those of you guys that have done it, does CCF make that much of a difference? Not sure if I'm going to do MLD though as recommended at http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/. |
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05-07-2013, 12:41 AM | #19 | |
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I did the dynaliner because I had it already, but I really dont think it was needed. |
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05-07-2013, 07:50 AM | #20 |
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Since I didn't answer the OP's question: yes, it's fine to leave the black glue. However, it is ultra super duper easy to take that black glue off if you still have your moisture barrier sheets - the "glue" tends to stay stuck to the plastic moisture barrier so you can just dab it on to the "glue" that is still stuck to your door and pull it away. The "glue" will stick to itself and if you pull it off quickly enough, you'll have no black stuff on the door.
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12-15-2013, 10:02 PM | #21 | |||
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For most of you I'm guessing that you're dynamating for the improved audio and that's a great advantage but what about the outside road noise and improved cabin quietness even over things like road noise or a loud exhaust?
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05-23-2014, 10:04 AM | #22 |
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Necro-thread - anyone have a DIY on this for taking the doors apart? I know, remove it all, wrap it up, put it back together. Right, got it.
I'm wondering if there are any tricks to getting the door panels off/on without breaking clips or fasteners.
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05-23-2014, 10:58 AM | #23 | |
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Undo the 2 bolts and using a panel popper or gently pulling every 6" around the side, bottom and other side. Lift the assembly upward. Find the electrical clips and unclip them. Find the door lock cables and fiddle with them until the balls come loose (hu hu hurr). No major issues with this door, just be slow and gentle until you get comfortable with the layout.
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05-23-2014, 11:24 AM | #24 | |
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Search is your friend: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...highlight=door |
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05-23-2014, 12:57 PM | #25 | |
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Thanks.
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05-27-2014, 01:11 PM | #26 |
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07-10-2014, 01:13 PM | #27 |
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I am still in the process of gutting my interior. Trunk is done to include the entire rear deck...and the SOB is still rattling! That 3rd brake light is a crappy piece of engineering. I think separating the assembly and Gorilla gluing it is my final answer before shooting it in the face.
Roof, floor, firewall, and tunnel are the next two days of work.
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