06-30-2016, 11:35 PM | #99 | |
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I'm aware I was thinking someone can just flash a stock tune back to the car, like tactrix or the like.
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The Following User Says Thank You to FRSBRZGT86FAN For This Useful Post: | justatroll (07-01-2016) |
07-01-2016, 01:56 AM | #100 |
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I would buy a battery jump pack, so you can try and get it jump started if you don't wanna buy a battery. Hell probably a friend and jumper cables might help you.
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07-01-2016, 02:01 AM | #101 |
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@Summerwolf I will try to make it happen. It's not that I'm too fragile to do that it's more that I am not sure they will let me do it on the lot. The car has the steering wheel locked so they tow truck will have it hooked up and moved before I could get back where the cars being serviced are to do it if that makes sense.
@VittorioS Unfortunately I had tried to jump the car when it first had to be towed.
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07-01-2016, 02:44 AM | #102 |
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If they have the readings indicating that the car was flashed/tuned, then ask them if they can tell WHEN it was flashed/tuned.
Also, have you contacted your Insurance provider and asked if maybe this is something that might be covered as a claim? |
The Following User Says Thank You to Kostamojen For This Useful Post: | Jordan Silveira (07-01-2016) |
07-01-2016, 03:14 AM | #103 | ||
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Second, you can always pick up a battery from oreillys or somewhere put it into the car to test (if it doesn't work just return it and say it was the wrong size and decided to go oem). *If it starts, then complain to management & SoA for wrong diag (also make sure you make a video of old battery vs new battery if it does start). Also make them reimburse you for the new battery because a battery should not fail under warranty or within 6-7 year I believe. And make sure you have SoA unflag you from the system. Just bring a friend along or family member to help you. A battery shouldnt weigh that much. You would also need a 10mm socket I believe. Edit: Also if the battery is drained out enough to only have electronics work, a jump start would have to wait a bit before it will crank (happened to my other car. had to jump start it with my FRS but had to wait like 5 minutes after connecting to the source before it jumped). |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Bach415 For This Useful Post: | Jordan Silveira (07-01-2016) |
07-01-2016, 03:48 AM | #104 |
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@Kostamojen I actually have called Geico and I do have mechanical breakdown insurance. It would be about a 250 dollar claim. However, I still don't know the whole process. I know that they won't repair it if the reason for the breakdown is your fault. How they determine that I don't know. My concern is however that that may say oh its ECU related or oh, it won't start? It must be electrical and based on the age of the car they may want to send it to a Subaru dealer rather than some shop they contract with who would not have the ability to use the software and credentials Subaru would use to replace the ECU. Obviously, this would cause Subaru to let Geico know of the red flag and that could screw me over.
@Bach415 I definitely will try to make all of that happen. Believe me I couldn't be more upset at the outcome of this. I haven't modded the vehicle further than clear bra, tint, and an STi push button and front lip. What's the point of owning a new car if it doesn't have warranty protection. I desperately need to get all this reversed and get my car back on the road. Also, good to know that just because it won't jump doesn't mean it isn't battery related. I really hope it's just a battery! You and everyone else seems to think the same so I hope it's right.
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07-01-2016, 07:13 PM | #105 |
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Most autoparts stores will not take back a used/installed electronic part, and a battery is top of that list. As the the terminals are lead, if it's installed, it's very obvious.
At this point I would have simply lawyered up. The burden of proof is on them. |
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07-01-2016, 07:53 PM | #106 |
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Update time: I now officially have the car back in my possession. As for the roadmap, that's very likely what's coming next. I am currently having my battery recharged and checked to see it the cells are good per AutoZone's free charging and checking system. I then plan on calling lawyer's for consultation in addition to seeing about having Geico's mechanical breakdown insurance take care of the repair so I can at least get my car running again. Then once I get a lawyer and hopefully can win this case, I can seek reimbursement and justice.
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07-01-2016, 10:56 PM | #107 |
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Good luck man. If you document everything then you can pull a Nick Murray on SOA.
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07-02-2016, 01:59 AM | #108 |
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Okay more updates:
I got a call from SoA supervisor today who was essentially useless to me. She told me that they confirmed with the Service Manager's readings and findings and that was essentially enough to dismiss a warranty covered repair. Furthermore, she said they would not assist with any goodwill in a matter like this and my vehicle would be flagged for the life of the car but that if I fixed this up to OEM standard (I presume get a dealer to service the problem) that they would remove the flag by means of always noting the car had been tuned/flashed/modified but that per the service records, the car had been returned to stock/OEM standards. I asked for help in the matter asking where to go from here and she told me that she had no advice and that I couldn't even fight or appeal the decision. In the end, what it sounds like is that they lazily didn't even investigate further. Rather they looked up the case according to the notes the service manager made, maybe asked SoA to run the notes to see if the findings were true and call it a day. They didn't even attempt to send a warranty rep or district rep to verify the issues and file a report. She then told me she also wouldn't provide me with proof of the findings because they were "proprietary" and despite me bringing up the idea that as part of the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, the burden is on them to provide proof that this problem is directly related to their so called allegations. Also, I had my battery checked and recharged. According to Autozone the battery cells were working and the crank voltage was in the 13-14's if I recall. As for the car, nothing changed which makes me think it is ECU related. I went to have the car towed and spoke with the service manager a bit. He told me essentially that the car's issue was that the ECM/ECU would not properly communicate with the car's immobilizer unit. That was the reason they immobilizer light had been flashing and the key has been recognized but no crank/turn over. He says because the car has a 2015 BRZ profile that's why they won't communicate. Furthermore, he told me that regardless of what I do that the red flag will forever remain on my car and while it won't deny my ability to receive warranty repairs if needed, it certainly has stripped away the presumption of innocence from SoA towards me/my vehicle. Furthermore, he said every repair from this point will be looked at to see if any connection at all can coincide with the aforementioned "tune/flash" and if so, Subaru can refuse warranty repairs. Finally, I spoke with Delicious Tuning (I figured they were extremely reputable and would be very knowledgeable of the car's capabilities and reactions to tuning/flash behavior and actions. With that said, what I was told was that it's an extremely hard process to flash a 2015 BRZ profile onto the car and while it's possible there are no direct benefits or logic to doing such a thing so he doubt's that possible or accurate on the part of the dealer. Furthermore, he told me that I should look into getting a lawyer and that it doesn't make sense why a tune would be present. So, with this information, it seems to be plausible that at the very least, my car surely wouldn't have encountered this issue if I didn't get it tinted. That's for sure. AND while I can't stand PHS and the service I received I do believe that his statements were at the very least, the best to his knowledge. According to the service paper I received to towing my car out it mentions that he spoke with "techline" and they told him the CID/CVN were not matching my vehicle but rather the CID was from a 2015 BRZ and the CVN was unrecognized. Moreover, looking back from what he initially got from "techline" is the "2015 STi profile through a COBB Accessport" I presume. Which would tell me it's possible and likely this "techline" and PHS don't know what they hell they are talking about and as per Delicious Tuning, dealers often look at failed ECU's and immediately point to tuning. Thus, through the changing allegations, I still don't believe my car was tuned/flashed. I know for certain I didn't do it and while 200 miles were before my purchase I just find it hard to believe someone's first instinctual move with purchasing a 30k vehicle would be to flash or tune it. I feel the instinctual reaction would be to enjoy your new car, get used to it, and remain in awe of the new addition in one's life. Also, I doubt Subaru of Glendale as shady as that dealership is, would risk the livelihood of their business by knowingly selling a modified car. With that said, I firmly believe it's likely the tint shop caused the ECU to fail per the solution/water either through the doors, but more likely the windshield. I believe SoA and PHS were too lazy to analyze that deep and got some bull information from "techline" that they lazily took as valid. How I'm going to prove this I'm not sure. It does fall on the tint shop but I have bigger fish to fry at the moment which is looking to at the very least restore the good faith of my car and it's history in Subaru's eyes so that my warranty is unaffected for future use. In turn, I also need to get the tint shop to accept responsibility but that will require effort. So, that's why I believe an attorney may be best. In the meantime I plan on calling Geico/Subaru Roadside to get mechanical breakdown insurance moving to see if I can pay 250 in a deductible to get my car running again rather than 1100 at the dealer but who knows if the dealer (I presume they will) will tell Geico that it's my fault and then Geico may screw me on the repair. Either way at this point I need transportation so I will have to find a way to pay and get my car fixed and hope to get reimbursed all the money after fighting and hopefully winning litigation with a lawyer.
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07-02-2016, 03:36 AM | #109 |
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good luck. if you do lawyer up, you should probably no longer talk about the subject on the forums (and possibly edit/remove your posts).
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07-02-2016, 04:49 AM | #110 |
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So after all it wasn't a battery issue and the issue is with the ECU. Welcome to the internet forums world
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07-02-2016, 08:38 AM | #111 |
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This should be simple.
Tell the dealer "If you ARE right, and the problem is just a tune, then PULL THE ROM IMAGE with techstream and lets have a look at it". If they cannot do that then the ECU is FUBAR. After they do that and provide you with the image as evidence "FLASH THE ORIGINAL ROM BACK". If they cannot do that then the ECU is FUBAR. They should NOT be allowed to tell you that the problem is just a tune when they can PROVE IT by flashing the original ROM back. In fact I think that it would be within reason that they fix it to prove their point THEN flag the car as being tampered with. If THEY cannot do it, I COULD do it (and a few hundred other people in your area) with a $150 tactrix. |
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07-02-2016, 12:36 PM | #112 | |
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