Engine blows out - Page 5 - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

botbs · 06-07-2018, 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jsimon7777

I was not totally correct in my earlier post. On Speed Element's site, it says:
"The accumulator also protects against oil pickup starvation due to high g turns. So if you’re running racing slicks and aero, when your oil sloshes away from the oil pickup tube in the OEM pan, the accumulator again forces high pressure oil to the critical main and rod bearings. Kits start at $349 and with the Billet Brackets as show the kit is $458"

http://elementtuning.com/competition...r-wrx-fa20dit/

So, if you're running slicks and aero, look at getting an accumulator.

Would Moroso / cosworth oil baffle works? or is a waste of $?

Tcoat · 06-07-2018, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by botbs

Would Moroso / cosworth oil baffle works? or is a waste of $?

Is it a hard core track rat that has logged oil pressure drops on turns? If not then it is money not well spent. Up to you to decide if it was wasted.

Dake · 06-08-2018, 06:41 AM

Qwimby1 · 06-08-2018, 02:12 PM

OK...I have a stock '14 FRS that is a DD but which will also be running stuff like turn 17 at Sebring on track-compound rubber. First thing I have to do is get an oil pressure and temp gauge, and oil cooler. I expect to run Mobil 1 5w30 year round because it gets hot in Florida and I see 7 grand on the tach regularly on the street. Do I need more mods than that to keep this engine together on the track?

FRSBRZGT86FAN · 06-08-2018, 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Is it a hard core track rat that has logged oil pressure drops on turns? If not then it is money not well spent. Up to you to decide if it was wasted.

Quote:

Originally Posted by botbs

Would Moroso / cosworth oil baffle works? or is a waste of $?

We can ask someone like @CSG Mike

I think its important to note Squad Rogue was always a troll and randomly theorizing things in posts

Tcoat · 06-08-2018, 02:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FRSBRZGT86FAN

We can ask someone like @CSG Mike

I think its important to note Squad Rogue was always a troll and randomly theorizing things in posts

Meh. It doesn't take a specialist to know that if you are not driving your car under extreme conditions an oil baffle is overkill.

finch1750 · 06-08-2018, 02:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Qwimby1

OK...I have a stock '14 FRS that is a DD but which will also be running stuff like turn 17 at Sebring on track-compound rubber. First thing I have to do is get an oil pressure and temp gauge, and oil cooler. I expect to run Mobil 1 5w30 year round because it gets hot in Florida and I see 7 grand on the tach regularly on the street. Do I need more mods than that to keep this engine together on the track?

Track question? There's a thread for that

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38926

Tcoat · 06-08-2018, 03:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by finch1750

Track question? There's a thread for that

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38926

LOL People that don't know Squady and don't read to far in may think that this is a legitimate thread.

For anybody that does not know the history please read this:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81548

Ultramaroon · 06-08-2018, 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Qwimby1

OK...I have a stock '14 FRS that is a DD but which will also be running stuff like turn 17 at Sebring on track-compound rubber. First thing I have to do is get an oil pressure and temp gauge, and oil cooler. I expect to run Mobil 1 5w30 year round because it gets hot in Florida and I see 7 grand on the tach regularly on the street. Do I need more mods than that to keep this engine together on the track?

I'll reply here regardless. I have a pretty special oil cooler setup. People would consider it oversized but I can manually adjust the flow after the thermostat.

Based on specs published in the service manual, the important number to watch for is the target maximum oil pressure of around 70-75 PSI. 0W20 is fine for me if I keep it under 185 F. I haven't experimented with other viscosities because I like the fuel efficiency benefit.

A couple of the local guys have beaten the piss out of their engines with no oil cooler and are still running strong. I think engine longevity is mostly a numbers game with respect to build quality and manufacturing tolerances.

I suggest getting the pressure gauge first so you can watch it and make informed choices. For instance, you will notice how high the pressure is when it's cold. It's a struggle for me to keep it under 120 PSI for the first few minutes. 140 PSI is where it bypasses to protect gasket and o-ring seals, and the pump. Keep that in mind as you play with viscosity.

Tcoat · 06-08-2018, 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

I'll reply here regardless. I have a pretty special oil cooler setup. People would consider it oversized but I can manually adjust the flow after the thermostat.

Based on specs published in the service manual, the important number to watch for is the target maximum oil pressure of around 70-75 PSI. 0W20 is fine for me if I keep it under 185 F. I haven't experimented with other viscosities because I like the fuel efficiency benefit.

A couple of the local guys have beaten the piss out of their engines with no oil cooler and are still running strong. I think engine longevity is mostly a numbers game with respect to build quality and manufacturing tolerances.

I suggest getting the pressure gauge first so you can watch it and make informed choices. For instance, you will notice how high the pressure is when it's cold. It's a struggle for me to keep it under 120 PSI for the first few minutes. 140 PSI is where it bypasses to protect the pump. Keep that in mind as you play with viscosity.

Ultramaroon · 06-08-2018, 09:39 PM

Link to DIY?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Tcoat · 06-08-2018, 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Link to DIY?

No diy given. The guy that posted it got banned before he could go into detail. He was a bit odd anyway.

Ultramaroon · 06-08-2018, 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tcoat

No diy given. The guy that posted it got banned before he could go into detail. He was a bit odd anyway.

Too bad. It looks legit.

Tcoat · 06-08-2018, 11:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Too bad. It looks legit.

Who knows. He was the kind of guy that would drive around with two holes where his exhaust tips should be and no back up lights. You know the type.

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06-08-2018, 06:41 AM	#59
Dake Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Drives: FR-S Location: Houston Posts: 1,056 Thanks: 464 Thanked 819 Times in 414 Posts Mentioned: 5 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)

06-08-2018, 02:12 PM	#60
Qwimby1 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2015 Drives: 14 FRS Monogram, 05 Mazdasped Miata Location: Sarasota, FL Posts: 565 Thanks: 131 Thanked 140 Times in 104 Posts Mentioned: 4 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	OK...I have a stock '14 FRS that is a DD but which will also be running stuff like turn 17 at Sebring on track-compound rubber. First thing I have to do is get an oil pressure and temp gauge, and oil cooler. I expect to run Mobil 1 5w30 year round because it gets hot in Florida and I see 7 grand on the tach regularly on the street. Do I need more mods than that to keep this engine together on the track?

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