DIY - Easy clutch grab adjustment (~10 mins)

[ermax]

Totally agree!

[Qc86]

Originally Posted by BigJimID

I'm new to the FR-S as of two week ago, so someone can correct me if I'm mistaken here, but these clutch systems appear to be exactly the same as my 97 GST (Pedal, master, line, slave, fork). Adjusting the distance of the master push rod shown here doesn't affect clutch engagement, it adjusts the play of the pedal. Your clutch catches at the same point because of the wear on the clutch disk itself. As it wears that point will change over time. So you won't get rid of that. I'm too new to these systems to know where the stock engagement point should be. My gut tells me your very high engagement means you may be looking at a new clutch soon.

Anyways, the extra play at the top of the clutch pedal is actually a good thing. Taking the "free play" out of it by tightening the master push rod is actually putting more pressure on the clutch line (similar to as if you were pushing down the pedal). What this does is then pushes the fluid through the line to the slave cylinder and increases pressure the tighter you make it. This causes the slave push rod to put constant pressure on the fork. The fork (as we know) is what holds and engages the throwout bearing. By putting more pressure in the system, you are forcing the throwout bearing against the clutch pressure plate more and more. This will lead to more wear on both the throwout bearing AND the teeth of the clutch pressure plate. My suggestion would be to not mess with it unless you've replaced something in the clutch system and it needs adjustment.

Hope this helps

I did learn that the reason this darn FR-S clutch pedal is hard to use is because there's a spring somewhere down there. That'll be coming out within the week for sure.

I dont think my clutch will due soon its a 2017 86 with only 15k km and ive done over 170k km on a stock clutch on another car, beating the shit out of it. So i dont think the problem is me however ive talk to a lot of people and it seems like the newest toyota/subaru have a higher grab point. Ive tried the new corolla and new wrx and the grab point is at the same place as the 86, kinda high.

[BigJimID]

Hahaha, ohh. Well a brand new car shouldn't need a new clutch then. Scratch that idea. Like you said, they must just have a naturally high grab point. I did see that replacing the slave cylinder is a popular mod on a stock clutch to improve feel. If we decide to do that, then a pedal adjustment will be required.

[Surok]

i am right at the end of the pin that you twist to change it, and i still hear the synchros when i move it to reverse and it slightly rolls forward when i move the gear lever near 1st.

what do? is there somewhere else i can adjust this? before i started it was fine, but the pedal was like 1 inch higher than the brake pedal.


I’m going to bleed the clutch tomorrow and see if it help.


I bled the clutch and totally flushed it with new fluid.

I was able to change the pedal a bit lower, so that 2.8 threads are showing as extending past the Clevis.
It’s much better now .

[Muchikori]

Hi so i recently got my BRZ and was wondering if doing this + removing clutch assist spring will be bad for the car?

Sorry for reviving an old thread

EDIT: found my answer hahaha. Ignore this question

[Sc629]

Anybody else have trouble getting that nut for the clutch loose? I couldn't get it to turn

[Muchikori]

Originally Posted by Sc629

Anybody else have trouble getting that nut for the clutch loose? I couldn't get it to turn

I actually did (embarrassingly) i just needed to turn it the other way

[Muchikori]

Hi I have a question... i have the clutch spring off, the clutch pedal same level as the brake and somehow i notice that my clutch seems like it’s not fully disengaged when i press it (i can smell it)

Should i adjust it to abhigher position or should i just put the spring back?

Thanks for your advise (noob manual driver here)


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[tehShirt]

@Muchikori If you are smelling clutch with the pedal fully released, you need to lower the pedal. The (lack) of spring isn't your issue.

Be sure the switch isn't keeping the pedal stopping earlier than necessary either.

[N234]

The pedal needs to release far enough back that the rod is stopped by the master cylinder. No exceptions.

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[Muchikori]

Originally Posted by N234

The pedal needs to release far enough back that the rod is stopped by the master cylinder. No exceptions.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by tehShirt

@Muchikori If you are smelling clutch with the pedal fully released, you need to lower the pedal. The (lack) of spring isn't your issue.

Be sure the switch isn't keeping the pedal stopping earlier than necessary either.

Thanks for replying guys... I made no changes to the cruise switch and confirmed that the cruising still works. wasnt able to move it either way as the whole thing twists around and my left hand couldnt go through to jam it with something ...

I just noticed the clutch smell twice so far and both times are when im Reversing from my driveway after the car is turned off for a while (cold start)...

[N234]

Originally Posted by Muchikori

Thanks for replying guys... I made no changes to the cruise switch and confirmed that the cruising still works. wasnt able to move it either way as the whole thing twists around and my left hand couldnt go through to jam it with something ...

I just noticed the clutch smell twice so far and both times are when im Reversing from my driveway after the car is turned off for a while (cold start)...

You might also be pushing down into the cylinder far more than necessary. Reduce the rod's depth into the cylinder at pedal-down position.

Test by driving reverse and forwards repeatedly a couple of meters. This makes sure the rod is going far enough to disengage the clutch while shifting.

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[Muchikori]

Originally Posted by N234

You might also be pushing down into the cylinder far more than necessary. Reduce the rod's depth into the cylinder at pedal-down position.

Test by driving reverse and forwards repeatedly a couple of meters. This makes sure the rod is going far enough to disengage the clutch while shifting.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Thanks! will check it out and make some changes later when i get home! will report back how it is

[Phrost]

I just made this adjustment fairly easily. I noticed that shifter doesn't want to go into 2nd quite as easily at higher rpm with the clutch pedal at the same level as the brake pedal. Is anyone else noticing this? Should I bleed my clutch? I am also a little overdue for tranny fluid swap, waiting for that in the mail. Think that would help it?