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Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing.


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Old 11-05-2012, 04:30 PM   #365
Matt Andrews
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Originally Posted by Dave-ROR View Post
The car doesn't trail brake for shit, the stupid slip light just flashes instead and EBD tries it's best to prevent effective trail braking. Maybe running a more agressive rear pad will help, I'm only running Carbotech XP8s in the back right now. Someone else (matt? or pcasso? or CSG?) got the car to behave better for trail braking by running narrower rear tires, we do that to get rotation in the FWD race car too.

I've never had the tail fly out on this car (on the track anyways). I need to play with alignment eventually but I'll do that when I need to fine tune it.. right now it's pretty balanced and doesn't understeer or oversteer.
This is strange. While the bias isn't right with XP8's in the rear, I am able to get the car to trailbrake. I don't get any artificial stability lights or overrides. We're running identical setups. This isn't the first time I've heard of a FR-S that for some reason didn't completely defeat the saftey systems while others did...
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Old 11-05-2012, 04:56 PM   #366
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Originally Posted by Matt Andrews View Post
This is strange. While the bias isn't right with XP8's in the rear, I am able to get the car to trailbrake. I don't get any artificial stability lights or overrides. We're running identical setups. This isn't the first time I've heard of a FR-S that for some reason didn't completely defeat the saftey systems while others did...
There's a thread on it in the tracking forum. With everything off it still flashes under hard braking. Currently the car tends towards understeer under trail braking, even my FWD cars don't do that

I'll go find and link the thread.

Link: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14618
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Old 11-05-2012, 04:59 PM   #367
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How did you replace wheel studs? Did you press them out or hammer them out?
Press. I took pics for a DIY, did one the ghetto socket/washer and lugnut method for install and it messed up the threads on the ARP stud so the DIY will be limited to how to do so with a press.

It's simple though, once the brakes are off, it's 5 bolts, press work, then 5 bolts to reinstall.

That's up front, I haven't attempted the rears yet (don't have enough studs here yet, the ones for the back are ordered).
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Old 11-05-2012, 10:18 PM   #368
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fyi, I just replaced my 2 broken ones with stock pieces so I could drive it tomorrow. A hammer for removal and a couple washers for install did the trick. took 10 mins.
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Old 11-05-2012, 11:41 PM   #369
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fyi, I just replaced my 2 broken ones with stock pieces so I could drive it tomorrow. A hammer for removal and a couple washers for install did the trick. took 10 mins.
Yeah that should work, it's so easy to remove that I just used the press instead
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Old 11-06-2012, 01:45 PM   #370
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I haven't driven the car since install (bled it but that's it, I'll bed it in tonight) but here's some pics of my brakes after 10,250 miles, 4,250 of which was using track pads (XP10/XP8): http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...&postcount=156



Here's a pic of my awesome (and unique) rotor wear:


And the final product:


But there's a lot more pics in the post linked above. DIY on front wheel studs is posted in the DIY thread also, but assumes a press is available.
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Old 11-06-2012, 02:03 PM   #371
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave-ROR View Post

Here's a pic of my awesome (and unique) rotor wear:

That's pretty crazy rotor wear!

How much of that do you think is from the track vs. from using track pads on the street?

Looking forward to how you get on with the AP kit anyow!
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Old 11-06-2012, 02:17 PM   #372
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That's pretty crazy rotor wear!

How much of that do you think is from the track vs. from using track pads on the street?

Looking forward to how you get on with the AP kit anyow!
It may just be because I didn't turn the rotors before using the carbotechs. I've used track pads on the street in my cars for a combined 50,000 miles at least and have never had a rotor wear like that (including other cars with carbotechs and non-turned rotors :shrug: ).

In the end I'm not sure what caused that unusualy wear, it's definitely not happening in the back with CT pads. I don't believe the pad is to blame at all. My best guess is excessive heat and crap OEM rotors.

Perhaps @JRitt has seen this type of wear before and has some ideas.
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Old 11-06-2012, 06:15 PM   #373
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Is there any info on the service intervals?
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Old 11-07-2012, 04:35 PM   #374
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Endurance systems are now shipping! The integrated brake duct provision on the brackets is fantastic. You can see all of the cool details on our blog.


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Old 11-07-2012, 04:47 PM   #375
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Quote:
Is there any info on the service intervals?
It's impossible to quote any standard service interval. Every situation is completely different. For example, the demands a novice driver would put on the brakes at an easy braking track would be far different from the stress a pro racer would put on the brakes at Road America. Driver, track, tires, power, weight, number of laps, etc...too many variables.

That said, there really isn't much maintenance involved with our systems vs. a stock setup. Disc and pad replacements are normal. On the FT86, I don't expect them to be very frequent compared to other platforms using the same parts in our system (S2000, Evo, Corvette, STI, M3, etc....they are all heavier and faster).
  • Disc replacement will need to be eyeballed. Heat checking and stress cracks are normal and not an issue. As a rule of thumb, if the crack is large enough to catch a fingernail, and is out on the outer edge of the disc, or where it attaches to the hat, you should consider replacing it. If there is ever any question about whether it's time to replace, we'll be happy to make a recommendation based on a picture/conversation.
  • The pads in our system are twice as thick as stock, and everything else will be running cooler. I therefore expect much less frequent pad replacement all else held equal.
  • You should regularly bleed your brake fluid, as you would with any brake system used on the track.
I've had a large number of Corvettes running our Competition Systems for two years now without any caliper rebuilds (the Vette system was the first one we released). Some of the more hardcore guys who are racing SCCA T1 every weekend have done so, but the calipers are really bulletproof and they don't need much attention.

Also, when it comes time to rebuild the calipers, we can do it for you if you don't want to get your hands dirty. We are AP Racing's only authorized North American caliper reconditioning center.
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Last edited by JRitt; 11-07-2012 at 04:47 PM. Reason: added info
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Old 11-09-2012, 09:57 AM   #376
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Hi guys...update. The Ferodo DS2500's in the rear OEM shape are finally here!!! I know a bunch of people have been waiting on these. Thank you very much for your patience! Give us a call today if you need them, or you can order online here. They should start shipping on Monday.

Also, the AP Racing S100 in the rear OEM shape will be here next week.

And last, but not least....I have some Endless MX72 and Endless ME22's front and rear coming in next week. I will have them in the OEM front and rear shapes, and the shape for the calipers in our Competition Systems.

I know it probably felt like forever waiting for all of these, but we appreciate your patience.:happy0180:

Endless descriptions:

MX72

The MX72 is the ultimate street ceramic-carbon-metallic compound developed for extreme speeds and power. MX72 is our latest development with lots of technology and effort in it to cope the demands of a extreme street compound. It is suited for use in a power brake system with or without ABS and EPS. The MX72 is a high heat resistance compound which can also be used for circuit racing, like a sports car club race day. There is no need to change pads for such an event. The initial bite and response is excellent even at very high speed like 250- 300 km/h and so also the pedal feel and brake balance. MX72 compound is not agressive towards the discs.

Friction average: 0.37 - 0.47 Mu
Temperature range: 50 - 700 Degrees C

ME22

The Endless ME22 Compound is semi-metallic and has been developed for racing and rally. It has a very good pedal feel with a good response and initial bite. It is suited for drivers that prefer to use a high pedal pressure and still have a controlled braking and modulation. It does not create lock-ups easily and it has a good brake performance at various speeds. It also gives the driver the ability to brake late with hard deceleration into corners. It has excellent heat resistance and wear characteristics for both pads and discs, especially at very high disc temperatures. Between 550 Degrees C and 700 Degrees C the brake performance and pedal feel is very good. Even in cold weather operations the ME22 works excellent with a good initial bite and brake power at very low temperatures. In snow rallying at 25 Degrees C the brake response is still on the same level. ME22 reaches its working temperature after only a few decelerations, and has no problems with water fade during wet conditions.

Friction average: 0.33 - 0.38 Mu
Temperature range: 200 - 800 Degrees C
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Old 11-09-2012, 01:35 PM   #377
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I don't know if this is a concern to many but I was just thinking. Since these brakes are dust bootless is there anyway to keep the OEM brake dust shield attached? From what I know both of these items keep foreign objects out of the brake system.

If it's not possible to attach the brake dust shield is there something we should inspect routinely when using this brake kit for street use? Maybe i'm just overthinking of the safety and reliability.
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Old 11-09-2012, 02:35 PM   #378
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Originally Posted by Hanakuso View Post
I don't know if this is a concern to many but I was just thinking. Since these brakes are dust bootless is there anyway to keep the OEM brake dust shield attached? From what I know both of these items keep foreign objects out of the brake system.

If it's not possible to attach the brake dust shield is there something we should inspect routinely when using this brake kit for street use? Maybe i'm just overthinking of the safety and reliability.
Yes. The shield has to be modified slightly. Essex mentions how to do this in their instructions included with the kit.
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