2 12" subs in the BRZ!

[WhiteFRS69]

dont our cars have an idle problem where RPM's will dip from time to time?


http://jalopnik.com/5948647/heres-ho...s-idle-problem


i havent noticed mine dipping at all, maybe i just dont pay attention to it

[babydriver]

Originally Posted by gramicci101

For a full wavelength horn, yes. A quarter wavelength horn doesn't need to be quite so big.

Yes, but a 1/4 wave horn such as the La Scala (Klipsch) always goes in the corner so that it can use the walls of the room to extend the bass response. I'm not at all clear about how that could translate into an auto interior, which doesn't really have corners at all. Are there some photos of the speaker alone and/or installed in an automotive setup that I could view?

Thanks.

[gramicci101]

Originally Posted by babydriver

Yes, but a 1/4 wave horn such as the La Scala (Klipsch) always goes in the corner so that it can use the walls of the room to extend the bass response. I'm not at all clear about how that could translate into an auto interior, which doesn't really have corners at all. Are there some photos of the speaker alone and/or installed in an automotive setup that I could view?

Thanks.

A horn doesn't have to be corner loaded. Klipsch horns are designed to be, because the boundary wall continues the path of the horn. Corner loading IS very beneficial for horns because of the boundary effect, but it isn't necessary. If you're using HornResp, this can be specified by the percentage of space you're using. 1/2, 1/4, 1/8 space are the most common.


I had actually been responding to Koa's post on his mixing room, not cars specifically. However, if you want a horn in a car check out Bill Fitzmaurice's autotuba, http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/AutoTruckTuba.html. You could possibly do a truck tuba laying down flat in the trunk.

[JJJMan75]

While the RPM drops are a minor problem, it's not as if I drive around blasting the system all the time. The engine is only effected at full volume with the gain at about 75%. My guess is the engine is just having to work harder to keep up with the alternator's power demands. I see quite a few questions on this post, I'll probably reply to the rest of them later today.

[Koa]

My rpms drop about 200-250 often at idling with full current & draw from a 500/1.. witnessed on logs as well, go from ~760rpm to ~530-540rpm

Much more pronounced since I've installed perrin motor mounts. I am looking into a low cost solution for it.. unfortunately will probably still have to be a sub cell battery or hi-amp alternator as this car's system isn't very powerful

[JJJMan75]

Originally Posted by Special_K

Having done multiple high power audio installs over the years, I would not add 2 subs to this car without adding a new battery/alternator. The electrical output of both battery and alternator are not sufficient to drive two subs without significant power loss. Either tie in a second battery or install a deep load one.

A mild dip or headlight dim is manageable, but losing 500 rpm is some serious leeching that you need to sort out.

Remember, the 500 rpm drop is only when the system is absolutely MAXED. On a daily basis, I have the system at less than 25% of max gain without any rpm dips. Also, I would like to get a new battery for the BRZ anyway, as it doesn't hold a charge very well in the cold.

Originally Posted by Koa

Bluetooth audio doesn't sound significantly different than CD to me.

I do music production and mastering as an aside

That being said, the 2013 paper cone system is totally junk.

(read: you're overpowering the already fatiguing stock setup with your dual 12's)

My truck had a Pioneer bluetooth stereo in it, and I couldn't hear any loss in quality between auxiliary and wireless. However, with the BRZ, all of my music, even FLAC, sounds like trash over bluetooth.\

Hey, I do some music production too!
What's this about paper cones? The images I've seen of the stock speakers showed poly cones and rubber surround...

As long as I keep the gain low enough (which I always do), I don't see why 12s would be any more overpowering than any other system.

[Koa]

Originally Posted by JJJMan75

Remember, the 500 rpm drop is only when the system is absolutely MAXED. On a daily basis, I have the system at less than 25% of max gain without any rpm dips. Also, I would like to get a new battery for the BRZ anyway, as it doesn't hold a charge very well in the cold.



My truck had a Pioneer bluetooth stereo in it, and I couldn't hear any loss in quality between auxiliary and wireless. However, with the BRZ, all of my music, even FLAC, sounds like trash over bluetooth.\

Hey, I do some music production too!
What's this about paper cones? The images I've seen of the stock speakers showed poly cones and rubber surround...

As long as I keep the gain low enough (which I always do), I don't see why 12s would be any more overpowering than any other system.

Well as you know the sonic "space" is finite, and any wavelengths that are dominant in the space are going to push out others.. just the way it is. Road noise is a great example of this. I'm saying the 12's may be overpowering the other components of the stock stereo system, aggrevating the perception of bad quality..

The 2013 early HU scions had shit cones, someone want to chime in with specs or pics? I know the newer all-touchscreen HU's on the fr-s switched over to polys

[crash.1340]

Yeah it's definitely not dropping idle due to amplifier draw, that's a $70 "1100 Watt" amp with a single 30A fuse. It's not going to put out anything anywhere near 1100W and a maximum 30A load (peak) shouldn't be dragging down a stock alternator.

[JJJMan75]

Originally Posted by crash.1340

Yeah it's definitely not dropping idle due to amplifier draw, that's a $70 "1100 Watt" amp with a single 30A fuse. It's not going to put out anything anywhere near 1100W and a maximum 30A load (peak) shouldn't be dragging down a stock alternator.

Yeah, Boss severely overrates their amps. This thing probably outputs closer to 200 wrms. Oh yeah, just an afterthought: What's a good way to secure the enclosure back there? It's always sliding around between the lip of the trunk and the front seats (y'know, on winding roads ).

[Griever423]

Aren't the Sears gold batteries supposed to be a good alternative for the budget minded? I know they aren't exactly cheap but I've reasd good things about them.

I am running two Addictive Audio 10's off a Db drive 750.1 amp and components off a DB drive 75.4 amp that's bridged and I only really see a an RPM drop on really REALLY bass heavy songs. No headlight dimming at all.

[devo85x]

Please don't say "brag" about rockford fosgate subs with a box that doesn't fit in the trunk and a boss amp...

...Now that that's out of the way! You dropping 500 RPM isn't because the subs are drawing too much power. I've got a about 250 watts RMS on my mids/highs and 2600 watts RMS on my 2 10"s in my FRS and, while I do get headlight dimming, I only see a drop of MAYBE 50 RPM (yes I meant 50, not 500) when the bass hits hard even at idle. I've run this setup with the stock battery as well as an optima yellow top that I upgraded to. Yes I'm still running the stock alternator while I wait for my custom 320a alternator to be built/shipped. It's probably something messed up with your wiring if anything or a deeper problem.

Also, whatever you do, do NOT put a capacitor with your system. They are terrible for your cars electrical system if you don't have the alternator/batteries to support what you have and basically just work as a buffer to help with long power wire length.

[devo85x]

Originally Posted by JJJMan75

Yeah, Boss severely overrates their amps. This thing probably outputs closer to 200 wrms. Oh yeah, just an afterthought: What's a good way to secure the enclosure back there? It's always sliding around between the lip of the trunk and the front seats (y'know, on winding roads ).

Should have made this a single post but oh well. I use 2 metal brackets attached to the back of the box as well as velcro. Haven't had any problems even when sliding the car around. Hope this helps!