Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by redlined600

I'm not looking to get addicted to (purple)crack.

71R is already dangerously close to purple crack grip, for a very short period of time.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by kch

Speaking of VR1s....

Still NDA?

Unfortunately.

Trust me, I want to talk about things.

[jayliu.jiayu@gamil.com]

how someone can help me getting faster on the track

my question is about trail braking

i think i did trail braking in my video

can someone point out am i did the trail braking in the video or not



here is video link



[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZVoOEvoeLk&t=411s[/ame]


by the way i will take anything for me to be faster

thx

[CSG Mike]

You're not often trail braking, as your inputs are very punctuated, but there are some moments where you are definitely using the brakes to help balance and rotate the car on entry.

Have you considered hiring yourself a driving coach? You have a pretty good level of confidence in your car, and you'll pick up time by cleaning up the fundamentals and focusing on clean, rather than fast.

The electronics are definitely interfering with your driving here and there.

[DerekM]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

A lot of it comes down to not up front cost, but the upkeep and running cost of each of those cars. What are you willing to spend in that area?

Replacement OEM Sachs dampers can be found lightly used for very cheap!

I'm guessing 3 to 5 per season for 10-15 track days after the car is set up correctly. That would be tires, brake pads, rotors and fluids. I would like to go the e46 route. Am I in the ballpark? Do you have other options that might work better? Thanks again for sharing your experience.

[Turbo]

What hot pressures/temps do Hankook RS4 tires like to see?


Here is the pressure and (outside/middle/inside) tire temp data from my last session on the (predominantly right turn) track layout. All data from Joe's Racing gauges:

Run 5/
1:15.82 fastest lap / 1:14.30 RaceChrono optimal

LF 154/156/160 39.6 psi
RF 130/140/151 39.2 psi
RR 124/139/142 34.7 psi
LR 132/139/140 34.7 psi

Temps measured in the order above, then pressures done in same order. Measured right off the track after a 1/4 mile cool down, tops.


1) Will running lower front "hot pressures" increase front end grip?


2) If so, will this also translate to more initial bite on turn in?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by DerekM

I'm guessing 3 to 5 per season for 10-15 track days after the car is set up correctly. That would be tires, brake pads, rotors and fluids. I would like to go the e46 route. Am I in the ballpark? Do you have other options that might work better? Thanks again for sharing your experience.

It'll depend on heavily ont he pads, but that would be in the ballpark.

With equal tires, a 86 will cost you less than half the running cost of a E46.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Turbo

What hot pressures/temps do Hankook RS4 tires like to see?


Here is the pressure and (outside/middle/inside) tire temp data from my last session on the (predominantly right turn) track layout. All data from Joe's Racing gauges:

Run 5/
1:15.82 fastest lap / 1:14.30 RaceChrono optimal

LF 154/156/160 39.6 psi
RF 130/140/151 39.2 psi
RR 124/139/142 34.7 psi
LR 132/139/140 34.7 psi

Temps measured in the order above, then pressures done in same order. Measured right off the track after a 1/4 mile cool down, tops.


1) Will running lower front "hot pressures" increase front end grip?


2) If so, will this also translate to more initial bite on turn in?

Front pressures are good. Rear is slightly high. You need less rear camber for your current setup/driving style.

More likely, your setup/driving is front loaded.

[Turbo]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

More likely, your setup/driving is front loaded.

I'm not sure I know what you mean by this, Mike. Could you expand, please?


Are you referring to the overall handling balance of the car? Or maybe 'rake' of the car? I believe the rear fender-lip-to-ground distance is set 1/4" higher then the front (with me in the cockpit).

Should I maintain a level ride height? And if so would you advise lowering the rear or raising the front to get there? I believe I'm -26mm from stock all around with HKS SP IV coils.


Also, I have Hotchkis bars on the car front & rear. Front on the softest setting, rear on the second softest.

[jayliu.jiayu@gamil.com]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

You're not often trail braking, as your inputs are very punctuated, but there are some moments where you are definitely using the brakes to help balance and rotate the car on entry.

Have you considered hiring yourself a driving coach? You have a pretty good level of confidence in your car, and you'll pick up time by cleaning up the fundamentals and focusing on clean, rather than fast.

The electronics are definitely interfering with your driving here and there.

thx for point out!!

currently waiting for the racing seating with 6 points harness get install

this video was my first track day with re71r 245 40 17
was using stock tire for last 4 track day


so i need work on trail braking for now right ?
and disable the traction control fully by hold the left button right ?
or should i do a pedal dance thing ?

i dont know if the track has the driving coach for this track
but they do have a $1000 per one track day with instructor
should i try that ?

and what kind of question should i go with if i take that deal
i get group which we rent a track for one day and share the price 500 per day with 5-6 section with 20 min per section

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Turbo

I'm not sure I know what you mean by this, Mike. Could you expand, please?


Are you referring to the overall handling balance of the car? Or maybe 'rake' of the car? I believe the rear fender-lip-to-ground distance is set 1/4" higher then the front (with me in the cockpit).

Should I maintain a level ride height? And if so would you advise lowering the rear or raising the front to get there? I believe I'm -26mm from stock all around with HKS SP IV coils.


Also, I have Hotchkis bars on the car front & rear. Front on the softest setting, rear on the second softest.

You and/or your car overuses the front tires relative to the rear.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by jayliu.jiayu@gamil.com

thx for point out!!

currently waiting for the racing seating with 6 points harness get install

this video was my first track day with re71r 245 40 17
was using stock tire for last 4 track day


so i need work on trail braking for now right ?
and disable the traction control fully by hold the left button right ?
or should i do a pedal dance thing ?

i dont know if the track has the driving coach for this track
but they do have a $1000 per one track day with instructor
should i try that ?

and what kind of question should i go with if i take that deal
i get group which we rent a track for one day and share the price 500 per day with 5-6 section with 20 min per section

If your local instructor is proven, that would be a great route to go. I also offer private coaching if you're interested.

You should be using the pedal dance. First, explore the limits in a safe area.

If you are renting an entire venue for the whole day, I can accomplish a LOT with you in one day. I can go a full 8 hours of seat time, if you can.

[finch1750]

Figure here is the most likely place anyone has done it.

Looking to refresh my brakes and want to replace the guide pins and bolts. Already have seals. Has anyone found any solid OEM alternatives for the slide pins? Or do I just bite the bullet from Subaru?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by finch1750

Figure here is the most likely place anyone has done it.

Looking to refresh my brakes and want to replace the guide pins and bolts. Already have seals. Has anyone found any solid OEM alternatives for the slide pins? Or do I just bite the bullet from Subaru?

Bite the bullet with OEM.

You could do what I do, and just buy junkyard calipers. It's very easy to see if a caliper has ever gotten hot by inspecting the outer dust boot and caliper coloration. Most have never gotten hot, and are in great shape for very cheap.

I replace my calipers regularly due to the extreme heat they see.